new to gun modification

bamboogtp

Bearcat
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Jun 20, 2010
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East Bay, Ca
I'm new to gun modification, I see a lot of guys get the base pin, what does that do?

I just ordered the wolf spring kit and the free spin pawl. I read that the spring kit goes in in like 20 minutes but the pawl requires a gunsmith, is it because of tools required or what?

thanks,

Matt
 
Ruger base pins are typically undersized. Also, the factory basepin tends to not stay in place under heavy recoil. Adding a Belt Mtn base pin solves many of these issues. Plus, the heads of them are functional and cool looking.
 
Welcome to the Forum!
Pvt Schultz has covered the base pins. As for the free spin pawl, I've never done any,, don't see the need,, and to get things done correctly,, since it involves the timing of a revolver,, I'd opt for a gunsmith.
 
not for us, to me I put it in the "gimmick" class, NEVER had any issues "as is...", for the most part........... yes, the occasional "misfit".........
once one "Learns" how to properly use it as it was designed and intended for, with practice, comes perfection..tooo many want 'short cuts' that for MOST part, are in the "minds"........... 8)
 
Fitting a pawl requires one to have an accurate understanding of what the pawl does.

How do you get that knowledge? Well....... in my case it meant screwing up a few of them :D

flatgate
 
Unless you're having problems with the factory base pin (darn rare, but it does happen), replacing it is fixing a problem that ain't there.

With the Belt Mountain base pin, if you over-tighten the setscrew, it will distort the base pin (not permanently, however) enough to cause some cylinder binding. If you install a Belt Mountain pin, drill a very shallow relief in the barrel where the setscrew contacts the barrel, tighten the setscrew "snug", but not tight, with loctite to keep it there.

A bit of wisdom I acquired from Flatgate.... that guy has forgotten more about Ruger revolvers than I'll ever know.
 
For the most part, I'm a "if it aint broke don't fix it" type of guy. That said though, there are some things that I simply can not tolerate in my personal guns. Amoung them are;
Canted sights and/or barrels that aint indexed proper.
Out of time actions.
A poor forcing cone.
Out of spec bores and/or throats.
Poorly fitted rifle stocks

You can note that exactly NONE of the above has anything to do with aftermarket "improvements", gimicks, "tactical" accessories, extended controls, plastic stocks, free-spins, or other do-dads that the marketer claims to be a "drop in" cure for what might not have even been a problem to start with. In fact, some of that stuff can even get ya into trouble.

Point is...... there's a difference in accessorizing and gunsmithing. If you're going to cross the line, ya need to know what you're about. And if in doubt, farm it out.

Just my 02 .

DGW
 
Howdy

Let's talk a little further about base pins. The real problem is, the spring loaded cross latch that holds the pin in place is often not properly fitted at the factory. This can result in the pin jumping forward under heavy recoil. Actually, the pin stays put and the entire gun jumps back. But the end result is the same, the pin can start working its way forward. And it is not rare, I have had it happen with three Rugers and two Colts.

With a Ruger there is a small spring loaded plunger at the rear of the pin. The purpose of this plunger is to force the transfer bar slightly to the rear as it rises. If the pin has jumped forward, the spring plunger at the rear loses contact with the transfer bar and the transfer bar can jam under the firing pin as it rises, jamming the entire gun up. And no, this is not rare, as I said, I have had it happen to three Rugers. Colts can do it too, however there is no transfer bar in a Colt, so the gun will keep right on shooting until the pin falls out onto the ground. Actually, this is a dangerous situation in a Colt because once the pin has traveled far enough forward it no longer secures the cylinder in place at the rear, and the cylinder can be out of alignment with the bore. When I say heavy recoil, I am talking standard 250 grain 45 Colt loads, nothing heavier, that has caused this to happen with my guns.

There are actually three possible solutions to this problem, it may require a combination of two of the solutions to eliminate it entirely.

1. Properly fit the pin to the latch.

2. Install a Belt Mountain pin.

3. Install a stronger spring in the latch.

I usually opt for the combination of solutions 1 & 2. Installing a stronger spring is a bandaid solution, it only treats the symptoms, does not address the cause.

I do not recommend the Belt Mountain pin with the retaining screw. As previously stated, overtightening it will warp the cylinder pin, causing the cylinder to bind. Plus it is a pain to always carry around that teeny little allen wrench in case you want to remove your cylinder.

Standard Belt Mountain pins are about .0005 larger in diameter than OEM pins. In addition, they are Centerless Ground, not turned, which makes them straighter. In addition to that, the retaining slot in the pin is cut straight across the pin, rather than a circular relief around the pin, as some Vaqueros have. The Belt Mountain design provides more meat for the latch to engage. I have had good success with standard Belt Mountain pins, I did need to custom fit them a teeny bit for my Colts.

Bottom line is, if you notice you cannot pull the hammer back, take a peek at the pin. If it ha jumped forward a bit, you have a problem that needs addressing. If the pin never jumps forward, there is no need to replace it.
 
I have six sets of ruger vaquero's, all stock base pins with the exception of the wolff base pin spring along with the hammer and trigger spring, no problems at all, but I'm a cowboy shooter so I don't do full house loads.

If your ruger is the new style, small frame, cock the hammer, look to the left of hammer near the top, you will see a set screw, take it out, you will have free spin on cylinder without changing the pawl or altering the pawl. Save the parts some place in case you decide to go back to stock.

All for now JD Trampas

P.S. All six sets are the old style XR3-Red frame, plow handle, big frame
 
bamboogtp":375n8g1x said:
I'm new to gun modification, I see a lot of guys get the base pin, what does that do?

I just ordered the wolf spring kit and the free spin pawl. I read that the spring kit goes in in like 20 minutes but the pawl requires a gunsmith, is it because of tools required or what?

thanks,

Matt

Directly addressing your purchases: I was never fond of the unidirectional clicky-clicky-clicky of the SBH. I've placed two free spin pawls that were both drop-in. No change in timing, and yes, they passed the bore-slug. 8)

I wouldn't recommend it, if you're new to tinkering tho', unless you have a smith you're friendly with, who will re-assemble a box of parts for you. The Ruger SAs are a bit of a PITA, until you tear them down a couple of times. If you get the Jerry Kuhnhausen Ruger SA manual, it would make life much easier, if you DIY. :wink:
 
I'm fairly mechanically inclined, so I will probably just do it. I have not found a gunsmith in my area yet, but I know there has to be one. I'll check with one of our local gun shops.

there is a lot of info online that I have found and the links provided are a big help.

I can't wait for the parts to show up and hopefully I wont be starting a "OMG how do I fix this!!" thread.

edit: oh and Rob, I'll have to look for that manual, thanks!
 
fyi

223610 is the promotion code for $10 off on a $50 order right now at midway.
 
What gun are you talking about?
If it's a newer BH or Vaquero variant, it may already have essentially a free-spin pawl setup as mentioned above in that all you have to do is remove the indexing plunger through the rear of the frame.

Denis
 
new model super blackhawk, but the pawl is already in.
SBH.jpg
 

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