Need som help for loads with unique powder .45acp and .44mag

[George]

I have a few pounds of unique powder and can't find enough data for what I want to load. Some .45acp 230grain FMJ bullets and some Lead cast SWC 200 grain bullets. I also would like to load some .44 magnum and I have some lead cast 240 grain SWC.. I only been into reloading for about a year I have date from powder manufactures.. I was using accurate #7 for them all and it worked great but ran out.. so I picked up the unique powder. The dealer told me it's a great powder for the loads I wanted it for.. Looking in the companies date guide I only came up with a solid safe load for the .44 special for the bullets I have. I spent way to much on getting into this hobby and need to be safe in a economical way for with now. Any good URL's or data for the loads I'm looking for with unique Powder? Thanks! George

 

[Cholo]

In the 45 ACP you can load 6 grs. of Unique with no problems. +/- a bit is okay, too. I've used 5.6. The 200's I can't help you with from experience.

In a 44 mag. I've had great results with 9 grs. of Unique, 10 if I want a bit more, but 9 has shot cloverleafs at 25 yds. off a bench on a good day.

 

[Rclark]

Unique is a good medium level powder for the .44Mag. I like 10g of Unique under a 240g SWC (1100fps load 6 1/2" barrel), but you can go down until the bullet sticks in your barrel too. 7.0g is a ~900fps load (the lowest I tested). Just find/test a load that meets your fancy...

Taffin .44Mag loads

and

Taffin .44Mag (and .44 Special) loads from the 'Book of the .44'

 

[bayou5252]

Here's the link to the Alliant powder (Unique) website that contains load data for many cals, including 45 and 44:


http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/RecipeList.aspx?gtypeid=1

 

[contender]

I shoot a 230 grn FMJ design in my 1911 competition guns, using 5.6 grns of Unique. I get about 735 fps and make my "major" power factor for the USPSA competition. You can go up to 6.0 grns easily,,, and it'll still be quite nice.
I'd suggest you start with about 5.5 grns, and slowly work up until your gun tells you which load is the most accurate. And of course,,, look at the MAX loads & stop before you exceed that.

 

[George]

Thank you all for the great links and info. Lot's to look at and lot's to decide!!!

Contender, Thank you! I'll start off with 5.5 grains of unique. I'm using Rainier Ballistics bullets 230 Grain FMJ RN. Just got a box of 500 of them.. Wife was a little upset when she didn't see me loading them right off.. She asked why.. I said I needed to get some better data on them for the powder I have before loading them. She thought I had bought something I couldn't use.. Just spent so much to get into reloading this past year trying to do it as cheap as I could.. Guess I should have started out with a loading packages from someone. In any case thank you very much for taking the time to help me out! George

 

[mikld]

Jes wonderin', do you have a reloading manual(s)? Unique loads for those bullet/cartridge are in every manual I own. Quite common...

I suggest to any new reloader that will listen, find a load in your reloading manual before buying components. Many fewer headaches and questions...

 

[George]

Yes good suggestion.As I said the only manuals I have a from Powder companies that give loans for their powders and list few opponents so far all the money went into reloading supplies reloading equipment and anything else I can get my hands on been doing it safe though.But you're right the next investment should be a decent reloading manual so I can look at the components I want for the power I have First.I did not have anything on hand When buying Unique Powder just talking to my dealer. Thank you! George

Jes wonderin', do you have a reloading manual(s). Unique loads for those bullet/cartridge are in every manual I own. Quite common...

I suggest to any new reloader that will listen, find a load in your reloading manual before buying components. Many fewer headaches and questions...

 

[George]

mikld, Let me add that up to date all components worked with the powers I had and been using the powder manuals I had for each powder. IMR x700 accurate #7 and accurate #9.. Then I went to my not so local gun dealer on a whim just dropped in and they were having a 10% off anything in the store sale even marked downs and sales items.. so I picked up a few more things.. One of them being one of the most conmen Powders that can be had unique.. So I picked up 3 lbs.. Then was on midway they sent me a birthday pricing deal so I picked up the most conmen bullets one can get for the .45acp 230 grain FMJ RN .. Thinking I would have no issues.. Well I had a hard time finding loads in the manuals I had.. Thanks to the kind people on this sight that pointed out that the powder manufactures has additional data and info for loads on there web sight that was not listed in the manuals I had from them.. Also got some great URL's great info and some dandy reading and loads for everything I had.. Yes I should have some good loading manuals and they will come.. most likely used at first. I just have to do it in a way that allows me to get into the hobby and still be safe while doing so..For me this is the way I have to do it.. Yes I picked up a guide book that was $30 bucks that had no loads but gave the ABC'c of just about every aspect of reloading.. Money well spent! It is the 9th Edition "The definitive guide for novice and expert", The ABC's of reloading a MEC book.. I hope this introduces me to you all a little clearer as to where I am in this hobby. So far so good .. safety safety safety ! Yep I recheck ever operation every load every thing is set up in a way that makes it hard to make a screw-up. Then I recheck again even the completed cartridge is weighted in a way I know that load is right.. I am trying.. I thank you all!! George

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I have read the ABC's of Reloading and it is a very good and educational book. For data I almost always check the powder manufacture's sites. They have the most up to date info there. Some other load books like Lee and Lyman are good but the older ones are sometimes out of date.
Here are the big three powder distributors.

http://www.accuratepowder.com/

http://www.hodgdon.com/

http://www.alliantpowder.com/

 

[George]

Jim, Thank you. I'll check out the Lee loading manuals and the Lyman loading For their books as I use their equipment. I appreciate it a lot. Thanks! George

 

[contender]

Ok, Let me add a bit more here.
You NEED to get a few more manuals. Even used ones are cheap enough to afford. Your safety is paramount. Heck, place a WTB ad here in the classifieds & you'll likely score a few at very reasonable prices. MANY manuals can be had for $20 or less.
Next,,, you got Ranier plated bullets. TREAT THEM MORE LIKE LEAD THAN JACKETED BULLETS!!!! Use data for lead. Work from there. My match bullets are from Xtreme & are plated. A plated bullet is NOT the same as a jacketed bullet.

 

[mikld]

I agree with Contender! Manuals are an integral part of reloading, shouldn't try it without them. Besides load data they include a lot of "how to" info and ballistics, component characteristics, etc.

FWIW; I pay very little attention to any forum expert, range rat, gun counter clerk, pet loads website, or "gunshop guru" as far as loading data goes. I have gotten my load data from published manuals for over 30 years, and there are still loads I haven't tried. For lead bullet data I have my Lyman manuals (49th and Cast Bullet Handbook 3rd and 4th), for jacketed bullet use I use the bullet manufacturer's manuals (Hornady bullets, Hornady manuals, Nosler bullets, Nosler manuals, etc.). I have a bunch of manuals and the last one I use is the Lee manual. I enjoyed the "front part" but I have found the data section lacking (I know it's just a compilation from other manuals' data, but there are "holes" in the data). With the experience I have I could prolly extrapolate safe loads, but I choose not to as I don't have all the test equipment or knowledge that powder and bullet manufacturers have. Besides it's easy to open a manual to a cartridge section, highlight the specific load, put the manual on my bench next to my press, and load some safe, accurate ammo.

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...

 

[George]

contender, Thank you! I didn't know that about Ranier Bullets! Darn I would have thought it would have said that on the box.
and it sure don't said 230gr RN.. I have learned something for sure.. I think that may be a good in-between as far as the gun goes. Loading and barrel running a bit cleaner? So still a ok choice for me.. It's all just range ammo.. Yes I'll get me a few loading manual next.. Used new what ever I can at the time.. Going to take a trip to my not so local dealer.. I been working with him for 30+ years..

I think my issue in reloading is kind like this.. I started shooting from about age 22 and always wanted to start reloading . at the time from day one, Lee had hand loaders for like $30 bucks for one cal. But I never got the small kit. But what happened to me is I always spent my money on a gun. I don't know just kept following me out the door.. I could always force myself to buy a few boxes of ammo back then .. More money to spend on what I wanted.. Now that I'm 59 years old.. I have slowed down a bit.. Wife said you always wanted to get into reloading so why not.. So that's the direction I'm going now.. Again Thank you for all your help.. Any info is sure welcome. Safety is paramount yes it is.. I am trying to be as carful as I can be and still get into it and learn.. Loading manuals next.. George

 

[George]

mikld, Yes I agree 100% If I get data from anyone I always check it with data I can find in a manual even if it's the powders company's manual and find at least two sources that agree and also ask questions about everything even if I think I understand what your saying. And I do Thank you for it!! George

 

[contender]

Ok George,,, trust me when I say; "We understand."

Manuals are cheap when compared to safety. I have a library full from my 40 years of reloading. I keep old ones & buy the new ones as well.

Plated bullets are kinda an "in-between" from Lead to Jacketed.
I started in USPSA competition with jacketed bullets. Got to where the expense was creeping up, so I tried lead. Saved money, but it hurt my scores occasionally due to the smoke causing me to go slower to find my targets. Enter plated bullets. No smoke from the lube that is on lead slugs, yet, not as expensive as jacketed. In the 45 acp ammo, you'll likely be fine with most loads & plated,,, but in 44 mag,,, you could run into problems.
I also cast my own slugs,,, and now I'm using powder coating to coat my lead. It isn't as messy OR smokey as normal lubed slugs, and cuts my expenses a lot. I cast & powder coat myself, and it's great.

Also, in USPSA,,, we have a "power factor" we work towards. I load my 45's to 730-740 fps to make "major power" yet at the same time, a softer recoil so I can get back on target quicker. Most 45 acp factory loads are in the 850-900 fps range. Plated bullets are fine in those ranges.
In 44 mag,,, if you load to where you are keeping the velocity around 1000 fp, you'll likely be ok with plated bullets too. If you start loading to serious magnum range loads,,, you can get plating stripped off with many loads.
I also follow the mantra; Accuracy first,,, as it does no good if I miss. Accurate loads followed by the energy level I need for whatever purposes I'm planning rule how my loads are assembled.

We'll try hard to help,,, but we push HARD for safety first!

 

[Slenk]

George
At least see if your gun shop carries these little books each are for one caliber.
They are cheap , if you are only loading for one or two calibers.
http://www.loadbooks.com/Store.html
Midway USA and other on line stores sell them cheaper.$7-$8
You can get them on Amazon also

 

[George]

contender, Thanks for more info on plated bullets and also it's nice to have a little background on your shooting! Nope I don't plan on buying plated bullets for my .44 Been using E Keith type SWC lead 240 grain from Missouri Bullets and they have been working great. I'm shooting a Ruger Shorty .44mag SBH NM and I'm not looking for loads to push that gun anywhere it could be pushed too. I shoot out doors just for the fun of the hobby. So far not much smoke outside that I can see even with someone else shooting my gun with my loads. In any case for me speed is not a factor just to have a good time and a good day and be as accurate as I can be. I understand the push for safety! I do. I did get the plated bullets my a mistake but maybe it's was one worth making. I think they will be very usable for my .45 autos and I may even like them. I'll be careful with the seating die and just adj. it to seat the bullet to where it needs to be then use the taper crimp die to do the crimp. I use the Lee 4 die set. I think done this way I can avoided stripping the plating off the bullets.. I have never loaded plated bullets but this method makes sense to me. I looked at the Rainier bullet site and they said not to exceed 1500fps +. I don't think that will be a issue in .45acp. I'm taking things slow as I don't get out and shoot anywhere near enough for me.. I check published date for the loads and every step of the proses twice and sometimes 3 times. I found a load that worked well for me in .45acp SWC lead 200grain bullets. Accurate #7 10.6 grains so I made a run of 400 bullets.. In .44 mag I found #7 with the E Keith bullets 240 grain SWC behind 15.1 grain did a nice job.. So I made 100 and 25 of them.. Oh whatever I load I make at least 6 rounds and label them well as they get put away for archive of my loads.. I also keep a loading book that I keep good details of my loads and comments. I hope I'm headed in the right direction! again slow and safe is sure ok by me.. Again I will start looking for what I may want in a good loading manual to start with then add to them as I see fit.. Thank you for helping me.. I welcome it! George

 

[George]

Slenk, OK thanks I will! I only load two calibers for now .45acp and .44 magnum.. I will be looking for them and I think that may be very little money well spent.. Thank you!! George

 

[contender]

It sounds like you are trying to be meticulous & safe. Record keeping is just one of the many good things we do.
It also sounds like you are on the right track on how to load your plated bullets. Taper crimps are excellent for them. And PLEASE do not think I'm against plated bullets,,, because I'm not. I still use Xtreme's for a lot of my competition. I have my load worked up & I don't want to screw up a good thing. I buy mine in 2-3 thousand lots too. I also use them in my 40 cal revolver for competition. Plated bullets do just fine as long as you understand their limitations.
And your Keith slugs should be fine too. Smoke primarily comes from the lube,,, not the lead or gunpowder. And when speed is part of the game,,, added to sunlight, & other factors,,, even a little smoke can affect the scores. If you really want to see it in excess,,, go to a SASS match, & watch the BP shooters on a calm day. When BP smoke just "hangs" it makes seeing the targets darn near impossible after a few shots.
Now, those caliber specific manuals are nice, and cheaper than a regular manual, after 3 of them, you could have bought a normal manual. Plus, a normal manual has a lot more info, then just for the calibers you load. Lots of details on reloading & such. I usually recommend the Hornady, Nosler, Lyman books first. Speer, Barnes, Sierra, & a few others are also good.
Also,,, if you shop at Midway,,, you can catch some of them "on sale" regularly.