Looking for CCI Shot shells, 44spc and 45LC ???
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Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
You can make your own shot cartridges with some cardboard disks and some Elmer's glue. You don't need those plastic capsules. 
Midway has some 45's http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=speer+shot+capsules+
Midway has some 45's http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=speer+shot+capsules+
do the 44 mags work? I've got mags and in CT but don't know if they are too long. Mine are loose and have about 10 but some are PMC . The link below shows mag & special as the same
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=347084445
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=347084445
GP100man
Buckeye
They load both 38/357 & 44 shotshells to chamber in either 1
But easy to make & alot cheaper !
If you`ve never played with shotshells before you`ll shoot a few , they`re a HOOT !!
I even form brass to make full cyl length shells .
Talk `bout glueing a snake to the ground !!
But easy to make & alot cheaper !
If you`ve never played with shotshells before you`ll shoot a few , they`re a HOOT !!
I even form brass to make full cyl length shells .
Talk `bout glueing a snake to the ground !!
AGE Ranger
Single-Sixer
Do you use the glue to seal the end of the round? I use paraffin never had any issues. Would Elmer's work better?Jimbo357mag said:You can make your own shot cartridges with some cardboard disks and some Elmer's glue. You don't need Glads plastic capsules.
Midway has some 45's http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=speer+shot+capsules+
When the in-laws had the Christmas tree farm I'd go through shot-shells like crazy. Those blue racers would hide in the trees; scare the crap out of you when shaping the tree. They refused to wear the little bells I bought them. Some of them were pretty aggressive.
mr surveyor
Blackhawk
I wouldn't mind having a recipe or two for the elmers glue sealed shot shells for both .357 and .44
I think I can lay my hands on some #8 shot pretty easy
I think I can lay my hands on some #8 shot pretty easy
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
Here is a good lesson on shotshells. Personally I would use a medium charge of Unique or Universal and #7 -#12 shot.mr surveyor said:
http://www.castbullet.com/reload/44shot.htm
mr surveyor
Blackhawk
Thank you Mr. Jimbo
That's exactly the article I was looking for!
surv
That's exactly the article I was looking for!
surv
GP100man
Buckeye
I even fill some with grits to shoot carpenter bees with ,It won`t even ruffle the paint.
Here's how I do it. Rod
Snake Loads for a Handgun
I make up "snake" loads for my revolvers using #12 or #9 shot. In a .38 Spl or .357, they'll reliably kill snakes out to about 8-10 feet. In .45 LC or one of the .44's, they're even more effective. Here's my procedure.
1. I size and recap the empty case as normal, then load the powder charge matched to the weight of shot I'm going to use. 3.5 gr's of Bullseye works well in .38 Spl. for instance.
2. I place a piece of coffee can lid (the soft plastic type from a metal coffee can) over the mouth of the recharged case. Sitting the case upright on an absolutely flat metal surface (the anvil portion of my bench vise works well), I lightly tap the wooden block with a small hammer. The block allows the case to cut its own individual wad from the coffee can lid. No "sharpening" of the case is necessary beyond a chamfer as is normally used in reloading.
3. This wad is pressed down on the powder charge using a wooden pencil's eraser end. If you make a pin hole in the wad, it'll allow the air to escape making seating easier. You want the 'over powder wad' right down on the powder. I use two over powder wads to ensure a good gas seal.
4. I then dip the case in a tray of shot till it's filled to about 1/16" from the top, allowing for another coffee can wad to be cut and seated. I then lightly crimp the case and apply a sealant to the edge of the over-shot wad; made of Testor's model airplane paint or Crazy Glue. This helps keep the slick wad from working loose in pocket or shell loop.
Using the primed and charged case to cut its own wad sounds risky till you try it out. It's fine in reality, just be sure to use a good solid, absolutely flat surface.
These shot loads work well on snakes, or as non-lethal loads against canine attackers or in the barn where you don't want to put a hole in the roof shooting pigeons. The #12 shot is good for these purposes, but can be hard to obtain. I bought 5 lbs. 20 years ago and haven't made a dent my supply yet. My friends and I have put the final chapter to half a dozen rattlers and copperheads using the above assembled loads. Leading has not been a problem in the snubbies we've used to date.
As to using cardboard for wads, I could never find an effective wad cutter. The sharpened case method didn't work at all...The soft plastic wads I use are thin enough, not to limit the amount of shot I could fit in the smaller cases and were effective as a gas seal. Be sure to weigh the shot in the first one you make up, to be sure of a safe powder charge. The pattern at 8 feet for a .38 Spl. using #12 shot is about a foot across, but does have some holes in it, presumably from the rifling. For that reason, if I'm fishing down in the Carolinas, I carry a M-36 Smith Chief's special with 3 shot cartridges and two hollow points. I shoot twice at the snakes, then check for damage. If they need finishing, I've got the last round and the two HP's.
Snake Loads for a Handgun
I make up "snake" loads for my revolvers using #12 or #9 shot. In a .38 Spl or .357, they'll reliably kill snakes out to about 8-10 feet. In .45 LC or one of the .44's, they're even more effective. Here's my procedure.
1. I size and recap the empty case as normal, then load the powder charge matched to the weight of shot I'm going to use. 3.5 gr's of Bullseye works well in .38 Spl. for instance.
2. I place a piece of coffee can lid (the soft plastic type from a metal coffee can) over the mouth of the recharged case. Sitting the case upright on an absolutely flat metal surface (the anvil portion of my bench vise works well), I lightly tap the wooden block with a small hammer. The block allows the case to cut its own individual wad from the coffee can lid. No "sharpening" of the case is necessary beyond a chamfer as is normally used in reloading.
3. This wad is pressed down on the powder charge using a wooden pencil's eraser end. If you make a pin hole in the wad, it'll allow the air to escape making seating easier. You want the 'over powder wad' right down on the powder. I use two over powder wads to ensure a good gas seal.
4. I then dip the case in a tray of shot till it's filled to about 1/16" from the top, allowing for another coffee can wad to be cut and seated. I then lightly crimp the case and apply a sealant to the edge of the over-shot wad; made of Testor's model airplane paint or Crazy Glue. This helps keep the slick wad from working loose in pocket or shell loop.
Using the primed and charged case to cut its own wad sounds risky till you try it out. It's fine in reality, just be sure to use a good solid, absolutely flat surface.
These shot loads work well on snakes, or as non-lethal loads against canine attackers or in the barn where you don't want to put a hole in the roof shooting pigeons. The #12 shot is good for these purposes, but can be hard to obtain. I bought 5 lbs. 20 years ago and haven't made a dent my supply yet. My friends and I have put the final chapter to half a dozen rattlers and copperheads using the above assembled loads. Leading has not been a problem in the snubbies we've used to date.
As to using cardboard for wads, I could never find an effective wad cutter. The sharpened case method didn't work at all...The soft plastic wads I use are thin enough, not to limit the amount of shot I could fit in the smaller cases and were effective as a gas seal. Be sure to weigh the shot in the first one you make up, to be sure of a safe powder charge. The pattern at 8 feet for a .38 Spl. using #12 shot is about a foot across, but does have some holes in it, presumably from the rifling. For that reason, if I'm fishing down in the Carolinas, I carry a M-36 Smith Chief's special with 3 shot cartridges and two hollow points. I shoot twice at the snakes, then check for damage. If they need finishing, I've got the last round and the two HP's.
GP100man
Buckeye
I use a Lee shell holder from the trimmer To spin the notched then sharpened with a chamfer tool case.
Drill out the primer hole enuff to poke a tool thru to eject the cut wads/cards .
I usually cut 5 cards (from cereal boxes) then punch out the cards.
I roll crimp ,then seal the ends with water proof carpenters glue , let it dry for 24hr. or it`ll smear the barrel with glue.
I also mark the primers (color em black with a sharpie so I can index em more easily.
IME ,the snubbies pattern better than the long barreled revolvers , less time for the riflin to spin the shot load ??well that`s my reasoning.
In 357 mag I use 3.0gr. CLAYS & the 357 max & use 4.0gr. of CLAYS, it`s very dense powder so it uses a smaller volume of room in the case.
Please Heed the warning in Juniors article ,as the pellets will bounce back if shot at hard surfaces .
Be Safe & have FUN !!
GP
Drill out the primer hole enuff to poke a tool thru to eject the cut wads/cards .
I usually cut 5 cards (from cereal boxes) then punch out the cards.
I roll crimp ,then seal the ends with water proof carpenters glue , let it dry for 24hr. or it`ll smear the barrel with glue.
I also mark the primers (color em black with a sharpie so I can index em more easily.
IME ,the snubbies pattern better than the long barreled revolvers , less time for the riflin to spin the shot load ??well that`s my reasoning.
In 357 mag I use 3.0gr. CLAYS & the 357 max & use 4.0gr. of CLAYS, it`s very dense powder so it uses a smaller volume of room in the case.
Please Heed the warning in Juniors article ,as the pellets will bounce back if shot at hard surfaces .
Be Safe & have FUN !!
GP
SweetWilliam
Buckeye
A couple of weeks ago me & a buddy were shooting carpenter bees at his dads using a single shot 22 with birdshot.GP100man said:
Retsoff
Bearcat
GP100man,GP100man said:
When you use a 357 Maximum case to reload shotshells for a 357 magnum, do you use small pistol primers or small rifle primers? Normally, the 357 Maximum case takes small rifle primers but I would think you could use small pistol primers for the shotshell reloads, due to reduced pressures. I really want to make up shotshell loads for my Ruger SP101 snubby using the 357 Max cases (shortened of course to fit). I am near lots of water moccasins and I can use these. Besides, it sounds like fun to experiment with these to get the best effectiveness possible at a much cheaper price than factory loads. Thanks.
GP100man
Buckeye
I use the sp primers .
What caliber is your sp ?
the 38spc has proven tricky to make a custom fit full chamber case for .
I have a 222 rem die I`m gonna cut down one day !
What caliber is your sp ?
the 38spc has proven tricky to make a custom fit full chamber case for .
I have a 222 rem die I`m gonna cut down one day !
Retsoff
Bearcat
GP100man,GP100man said:
Thank you for the reply.
My SP is a 357 Magnum.
One last question: You also mentioned that you cut 5 cards (gas checks) from a cereal box. How many of these do you use over the powder and over the shot?
Thanks again for taking the time to share your experience.
Retsoff
GP100man
Buckeye
If the card is kinda thick ,1 will do over the powder & if any ? just use 2 , tamp the powder/wad down tite .
I use 1 to cap it all then seal with the glue.
These shells are alot of fun ,but be sure to wear ya eyes because it`ll bounce back off of anything it does`nt penetrate!
GP
I use 1 to cap it all then seal with the glue.
These shells are alot of fun ,but be sure to wear ya eyes because it`ll bounce back off of anything it does`nt penetrate!
GP
Retsoff
Bearcat
GP100man,
Will do. Thank you again for your time.
Now all I gotta do is get some primers and powder without having to refinance the home.
Will do. Thank you again for your time.
Now all I gotta do is get some primers and powder without having to refinance the home.
#1rugerman
Single-Sixer
I have made 45 colt shot shells using gas checks to hold the shot charge (prime case, add powder, use one gas check base up pushed next to the powder, add shot, then one gas check base down and crimp lightly. Always gave a donut shaped pattern with 2 holes where the gas checks hit). Used a powder charge that would match that if using a like weight of a bullet equal to the shot charge. I tried using cut down 410 plastic wad colums to reduce the donut pattern but it was not much better.
