Lanyard ring advice

[Seldomseen]

How do you install a lanyard ring on a steel grip frame for the Blackhawk? What brand and type works best?

 

[rugerguy]

need to drill a hole in the bottom of the grip frame for the swivel stud, and the swivel stud usually has a shoulder or groove, and then you need to drill a cross pin hole to align with this 'groove' so you can now "pin" the swivel in place, so it can actually "swivel" (turn) and the pin keeps it in the hole,ta daa.................
we pick them up at military surplus dealers, same ones they used for years in the military going back to the turn of the century, both Smith and Colt, mainly the 1917 models, good heavy duty "stuff" and inexpensive.......

 

[gak]

Otherwise, another is from Bowen Classic Firearms--blued or stainless--about $50 for the part. If installing in a gripframe with lock, more work involved--close working environment/tolerances and even a little internal frame cutting. Great results but not for novice--again at least on the locked guns. Not installing aforementioned pin makes for less work, but no swivel, just movement in one dimension (flopping back and forth). Take extra care drilling the gripframe bottom too to insure exact center--fore-aft and sideways.

 

[Hondo44]

If you want a round ring like the old Remington 1875 single action, S&W makes them for their small frame guns and under $10 if I recall. Installs as above. I have one.
Have the part # if you want it.

 

[Cracker-American]

Brain will not engage this morning. Do you drill the grip and then drill the stud portion of the swivel stud? Where is this groove you speak of?

 

[Hondo44]

Brain will not engage this morning. Do you drill the grip and then drill the stud portion of the swivel stud? Where is this groove you speak of?

Drill the hole for the ring stud into the bottom of the butt of the grip frame 1st. The circular groove is on the ring stud. Then drill the retaining cross pin hole crosswise thru the side of the grip frame. When installed, the retaining cross pin will engage the circular groove in the ring stud and allow the ring to turn.

 

[rugerguy]

sorry NO pictures, and none "on hand" to be able to even take a picture....
simply a swivel, looks like a "sling swivel" but smaller, and instead of threads on the 'stem' its
smooth and has a groove going arond it ,near the middle, this groove allows for the "cross pin" to retain the 'stem' in the hole , that is drilled in to the bottom of the grips' frame, NOT the grips.........
I'd bet there is something on "you tube" but I've never had to use, or look at "you tube", so cannot help you out there.............
it would cost you more to have a shop drill the holes, and install than the part is worth, by far....................could only imagine what some machine shop would charge, and as said above, the "lay out" measurements to get it "centered" would be tough enough as well as keeping the holes 'square, and perpindicular to each other............. 8)

 

[Cracker-American]

What holds the cross pin in place? Do you tap the hole or maybe a friction fit?

 

[rugerguy]

usually 'pressure' ( same sized pin for the hole, say 1/16 ") ,,,,besides, when you put the grips back on the gun, the wood covers the lower portion of the frame and leeps the pin from even coming out under fire...as we said the military has been doing it this way since the turn of the century and it works on their revolvers, as for the autos (ala 1911, etc), the mainspring housing usually is the locale for the "loop" and these do NOT swivel, but are 'set'..................

 

[Sam Johnson]

Here are a few pics that shows the cross pin , left and right side of my Colt New Service m 1917.

 

[gak]

Dan is right about "it would cost you more...machinist..." I had it done for my Montado and a friend's .44 Sheriff--both stainless--by my Ruger/Coltsmith. Great results but daunting cost. Would I do over? Probably not (now) because of the expense--again in these instances on locked guns (added work)...but not because of the results. Love it. We'll never get that that kind of money back out of it, but not planning on selling soon anyway. We also had an antiqued Rodeo done--also to great effect, slightly less work because no Ruger new lockwork to deal with, but caution there was the bottom gripframe is fairly thin in the middle promptimg "care" in drilling.

 

[rugerguy]

Sam, thank you ,great pictures, as can be seen in these pictures, on guns where there is a "serial number" on the bottom ( this is NOT the case with Ruger Single actions, but it is for the double actions, you cannot "obliterate" the guns serial number, and both Colt, as well as S&W, "moved" the numbers to work around the butts 'lanyard swivel...........this "MOVE" was done in advance of the hole location,NOT afterwards......so keep this 'mind'....

 

[Hondo44]

Sam, thank you ,great pictures, as can be seen in these pictures, on guns where there is a "serial number" on the bottom ( this is NOT the case with Ruger Single actions, but it is for the double actions, you cannot "obliterate" the guns serial number, and both Colt, as well as S&W, "moved" the numbers to work around the butts 'lanyard swivel...........this "MOVE" was done in advance of the hole location,NOT afterwards......so keep this 'mind'....

Dan,

Good info with one exception; when Smith & Wesson installed a lanyard ring in an already serial numbered new civilian gun at the factory, the serial number was drilled thru close to the ctr of the butt, however, the number was restamped under the left side grip.

 

[lfpiii]

A cheap way to go is to buy Hogue grips and order the $3.00 landyard replacement screw from the factory.