grit of "stones" for sharpening

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Joined
Nov 5, 2007
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9,775
Location
Dallas, TX
Regardless of the brand of sharpener, all the different systems use the numbered grit for their stones or sharpening material. I'm wondering about the specifics for the numbers.

First, is an 800 grit stone from company X the same as an 800 grit stone from a different company? Or are all 1000 grit stones the same regardless of brand? And will an 800 grit in a natural stone be the same as an 800 grit of a man made sharpening material?

And what steps between numbers should be followed? Should you go 800, then 1000, then it seems the next is 1500. But why the jump? Is there much of a difference in grit between the 500 steps between 1000 and 1500 like there is between the 200 steps of 800 and 1000? Does that question make sense?

When sharpening knives, it isn't necessary to start over at 200 every time. I know that much. But when just touching up a knife's edge, where would YOU normally start? I was doing just this on a few knives and started at 600, then went to 800 and then 1000 and 1500 and ended at 2200.

And what would happen if you jumped from 800 up to 1500 and just skipped 1000 altogether?

But see, the jump between 800/1000 is closer than the jump from 1500 to 2200. Or is it when you move higher? Why isn't there an 1700?

Most brands of sharpening systems end around 2200 or 3000. Then they get into leather polishing strops. Are those necessary?

I'm mostly asking about kitchen knives. I did get my handy dandy 5 inch utility knife to cleanly slice paper.

Maybe I need to buy a microscope. :) Which actually isn't a bad idea but would open up even more questions.
 

AzShooter1

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 14, 2017
Messages
406
Location
Surprise, Az
My set of stones starts off with 300 grit. When done with that it goes to 600 grit, 1000, 2000, 3 and 4000. It also came with a stropping strap. I'm not the best but I can shave hair off my arm after using all the stones.
 

eveled

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2012
Messages
5,610
The 'edge' produced by a given 'grit' may be sufficient for the use w/o using 'finer' grit stones. The goal of a razor strop edge may not even be useful for some cutting chores.
This is true.

Some knives I just sharpen on my coarse diamond plate. Others never see anything but the fine plate.

Extra coarse is for reprofiling or removing lots of metal fast.

IMG_5983.jpeg
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
3,325
You can jump/skip to a much finer stone if you want to but it will take longer to take off the
rougher finish than working up with what you have. A 2000 refining the finish made by a 300
will take a looooong time.
Personally I find grits finer than about 1500 don't make much difference in say kitchen knives,
I have grits down to 3000 and then leather strops but don't really use them much.
If you want to show how sharp a knife is and shave off strips of tissue paper you can do
it but tomatoes don't seem to know the difference between a 1500 edge and a mirror polished one.
 

settup6

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 30, 2023
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
Every sharpening job is different, so yes you can definitely jump over different grits depending on how much work each edge needs. From repairing an edge that's worked hard to something you keep hair popping sharp. Sometimes you start at 80 and sometimes 400. My kitchen knives rarely see anything above 600 so they cut through those tough tomato skins.
 
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
10,134
Location
missouri
I used to go to considerable effort to sharpen my hunting knives but not much anymore. I've been using a Cold Steel 'Pendleton Lite' for several years and it's changed my life(so to speak). A few passes through a drag through sharpener followed by 15-20 swipes on my ancient razor strop and it's ready to go. After gutting a couple of deer, just do it again and back in the pack for the next go. I just blew my birthday $ on the upscale Pendleton Mini but haven't bloodied it yet. That knife took an edge about like the LITE does but is purportedly of 'better' steel and 'improved' edge holding ability. We'll see if that's true next year.
I don't have large hands nor do I need a big blade for doing what I do so the smaller profile blade/handle configurations just work better for me. If I have someone to hold a leg now and then, gutting a deer takes 3-5 minutes so I'm pretty efficient at the task.
 
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