Which of the latest models of Ruger single-action revolvers use Torx-head screws to attach the grip frame to the main frame? 
Grip frame screws
- Thread starter Ale-8(1)
- Start date
needsmostuff
Blackhawk
Not sure but I think it is just the Wranglers and Super Wranglers.
J. Yuma
Single-Sixer
I hate torx screws.
I know nobody asked me, but your question caught my eye due to a recent mishap.
I have to snug up all slotted fasteners after shooting the SBH.
SBH has 5 itsy bitsy 6-30's (I believe that's an oddball thread, I've used 6-32's, and 4-40's but never 6-30's). Recently one snapped when SNUGGING (I swear, no gorilla action) and I had to send the whole thing to NH to get it removed/replaced.
The SRH only has 3 screws in the front sight and one holding the grip on.
Not sure if you can tighten 6-30's in inch pounds with a (small) torque wrench, and I hesitate to use loctite, although the factory uses some sort of thread locker.
I've enjoyed wrenching cars (less) and bikes (more) , but working on guns seems to be more of an art form, like cutting diamonds.
I know nobody asked me, but your question caught my eye due to a recent mishap.
I have to snug up all slotted fasteners after shooting the SBH.
SBH has 5 itsy bitsy 6-30's (I believe that's an oddball thread, I've used 6-32's, and 4-40's but never 6-30's). Recently one snapped when SNUGGING (I swear, no gorilla action) and I had to send the whole thing to NH to get it removed/replaced.
The SRH only has 3 screws in the front sight and one holding the grip on.
Not sure if you can tighten 6-30's in inch pounds with a (small) torque wrench, and I hesitate to use loctite, although the factory uses some sort of thread locker.
I've enjoyed wrenching cars (less) and bikes (more) , but working on guns seems to be more of an art form, like cutting diamonds.
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
My Wrangler does. I like them better than the slotted screws Ruger used to make out of butter.
NikA
Hunter
J. Yuma
Single-Sixer
I stand corrected.
Now I remember buying reverse twist drill bits, and a 6-40 tap to try and perform the surgery myself.
After several attempts, I bit the "bullet"
and shipped my beloved SBH to Ruger in New Hampshire, quite sure that I would never see it again. Two weeks later I was putting holes in paper.
I have an inch-pound torque wrench, but I can't recall ever using it, and I've never torqued slotted screws of any size.
Now I remember buying reverse twist drill bits, and a 6-40 tap to try and perform the surgery myself.
After several attempts, I bit the "bullet"
and shipped my beloved SBH to Ruger in New Hampshire, quite sure that I would never see it again. Two weeks later I was putting holes in paper.I have an inch-pound torque wrench, but I can't recall ever using it, and I've never torqued slotted screws of any size.
chet15
Hawkeye
So then the next question will be... when did Ruger make the change on each of their series?
Chet15
Chet15
OP
J. Yuma
Single-Sixer
one of my many pastimes is model airplanes. I've used 4-40, 6-32, but had never heard of 6-40.
But now, I have a tap!
But now, I have a tap!
thats why they are called "gun screws" and not usually found at Sears or the local hardware stores.......... 
I know , I know, some like our Ace got smart and asked a lot by folks like me and now have them.........
I know , I know, some like our Ace got smart and asked a lot by folks like me and now have them.........
J. Yuma
Single-Sixer
gun screws...what else would you use, right?
Look at some of the screw threads that were used in the past before a lot of them were standardized. I'm working on an old Savage Stevens 22 410 over under and the selector button uses a 5-40 screw to attach it.
OP
As noted, the #6-40 is a standard thread size. What might be different about Ruger's grip frame screws could be the details of the heads used, the diameter and general shape. The regular Ruger screws don't appear to be anything unusual, but ya never know. And having the available space for the Torx opening might have an influence. I kinda doubt it because the holes in the grip frames probably haven't changed as a result of the "new" screws used. Guess we'll see.
J. Yuma
Single-Sixer
#6 screws are kinda little for a salty unit like a SBH (imho).
The SBH is an elegant looking weapon, and I imagine that the idea was to emulate a Colt SAA, and as we all know; COWBOY GUNS HAVE LITTLE SCREWS, daggumit!
The SRH, in comparison, has an industrial vibe, like it was designed and manufactured in Stalingrad. The only screws that I can see on the SRH hold the front sight and the grip in place.
Don't get me wrong, I can't think of any guns I'd rather have than these two.
The SBH is an elegant looking weapon, and I imagine that the idea was to emulate a Colt SAA, and as we all know; COWBOY GUNS HAVE LITTLE SCREWS, daggumit!
The SRH, in comparison, has an industrial vibe, like it was designed and manufactured in Stalingrad. The only screws that I can see on the SRH hold the front sight and the grip in place.
Don't get me wrong, I can't think of any guns I'd rather have than these two.
OP
IMHO the only real problem with those #6-40 screws is that the slots aren't very deep and most folks don't have a proper screwdriver for dealing with them. It is way too easy to bugger up a screw head and make it nearly impossible to remove. The use of threadlocker on the screws can easily complicate the matter.
This whole issue came up as I was attempting to "unconvert" an OM Blackhawk. Whoever was in there last apparently used some kind of thread locking material. and also dinged up the slot in one of the screws. It was touch-and-go as to whether I was going to get that screw out, and I'm really not wanting to put it back in. Thanks to a member here I have come up with some replacement Ruger screws but haven't put them in yet. Also have inquired of Ruger if the new Torx-head screws are available for purchase.
This whole issue came up as I was attempting to "unconvert" an OM Blackhawk. Whoever was in there last apparently used some kind of thread locking material. and also dinged up the slot in one of the screws. It was touch-and-go as to whether I was going to get that screw out, and I'm really not wanting to put it back in. Thanks to a member here I have come up with some replacement Ruger screws but haven't put them in yet. Also have inquired of Ruger if the new Torx-head screws are available for purchase.
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OP
That, and the entire main frame and grip frame were scaled to Ruger's first SA, the Single-Six. Those #6 screws probably seemed to be all kinds of big enough for those. Then Ruger went with the same exact details on the Flattop .357 and .44 and it all went on from there.
As mentioned before, the Wrangler has the torx screws. Being a Jeep guy, I have developed a healthy dislike for torx screws. But on the grip frame, they are fantastic. They don’t “bugger up” and the driver stays centered and never runs the side of the hole. I have one set that I use for fitting grip frames. They’ve been in and out a hundred times it seems like and they’re still perfect. I’d put them in all my new models if Ruger offered sets. New models only, though. It would be sacrilegious on an old model.
I have bought multiple extra sets of the slotted screws through Midway, and Ruger sent me a couple of stainless sets for free once.
I have bought multiple extra sets of the slotted screws through Midway, and Ruger sent me a couple of stainless sets for free once.
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
Yes, the problem with the slotted screws is not just people using the wrong driver and damaging the slot ... it's the driver slipping off the side and scratching anodizing or grip wood.
OP
Good to hear. I have not yet received a response from Ruger on the possibility of purchasing the Torx screws. If they are avalable I'l likely buy some "just because". I can see them being very handy for various maintenance operations.
And I might use them as permanent aditions on the few OM guns I have "messed with".
J. Yuma
Single-Sixer
I would hope they're re-tro fittable.
Even though I hate them, the statements presented "for" would outweigh my dislike for the technology.
One concern would be "too many grunts" (I guess with 6-40's it would be too many deep breaths) but some thread lube and a mini torque wrench would be in order.
The other would be "authenticity."
Even though I hate them, the statements presented "for" would outweigh my dislike for the technology.
One concern would be "too many grunts" (I guess with 6-40's it would be too many deep breaths) but some thread lube and a mini torque wrench would be in order.
The other would be "authenticity."
OP
I learned a long time ago when to quit twisting on small screws. 
W/respect to authenticity, I probably wouldn't use them on guns of any particular significance, but I do have a few I've "messed with" a little.
W/respect to authenticity, I probably wouldn't use them on guns of any particular significance, but I do have a few I've "messed with" a little.
OP
Received a response from Ruger's customer service. The Torx head screws are vailable for purchase. Now I just have to figure out what I actually want to do.
I have a couple NM and a couple OM I would like to fit steel grip frames to. I have seen pictures of "stock screws" or fitting screws, can't find the anywhere. I don't want to mess up my frame screws removing and reinstalling them a hundred time in the fitting process. Any ideas, anyone?
Attachments
contender
Ruger Guru
Joey, that set of gunsmith screws I showed were offered for sale here in our classified section long ago. I have not seen them anywhere else and they have not been available elsewhere that I can find.
If you have any friends who are machinists and have a lathe, they can make some.
If you have any friends who are machinists and have a lathe, they can make some.
Thanks much, contender. I am surprised some one doesn't make them. A great idea for saving screw heads and frame holes. I took apart a NM coupla' weeks ago to get familiar with them. Didn't want to do it with an OM, in case I screwed up. Taking apart was a breeze. putting it back together was, well..... Had to remove the frame a coupla' three times, didn't mess anything up, but the potential was there. So I started looking.
I have a friend who is a 'smith/machinist, does great work. I will get in touch with him, see if he can make me several sets, one for me, some for friends.
I have a friend who is a 'smith/machinist, does great work. I will get in touch with him, see if he can make me several sets, one for me, some for friends.
I have torx screws in a few of my old model shooters. Don't remember where I found them. They work a lot better than slotted screws.
BoggusDeal
Single-Sixer
A machinist could make you some. That looks like a handy idea!
GypsmJim
GypsmJim
Both my Wranglers have slotted screws. The only Ruger I have with non-slotted screws is a Mark IV, and they are not Torx, they are Allen head screws.
Off topic a bit... My dad was a tool and die maker and his shop had lots of special bids from IBM Kingston New York. After upgrading some of his measurement tools he sent me a 1" Mitutoyo micrometer. A few days after I got it he called and asked me if I looked in the box and I had not, well I got it and in it was a small package and he told me to open it and write my name with the contents.
The small package had a VERY TINY 1/2" long slotted head screw that looked to be smaller than a #4 and I said it's a screw I can't write my name with it and he said to try it. I'll be darned I COULD write my name with it! Then he told me it was made out of carbon, y'know like pencil lead!
IBM had some weird special purpose for the delicate little thing and dad was charging them something like $50 EACH for them (and couldn't get enough) and this is back in the early 80's. No other shop would take the bid!
Since I worked at IBM Boca Raton Florida and had contacts up in Kingston, I contacted a few guys to see if they knew anything about the carbon screws but they dusted me off like I had the flu. EVERY inquiry I made as to the purpose for the little carbon screws met with a dead end!
I sure wish I knew what those little screws were for!
Anyway, a good machinist can make just about anything.
The small package had a VERY TINY 1/2" long slotted head screw that looked to be smaller than a #4 and I said it's a screw I can't write my name with it and he said to try it. I'll be darned I COULD write my name with it! Then he told me it was made out of carbon, y'know like pencil lead!
IBM had some weird special purpose for the delicate little thing and dad was charging them something like $50 EACH for them (and couldn't get enough) and this is back in the early 80's. No other shop would take the bid!
Since I worked at IBM Boca Raton Florida and had contacts up in Kingston, I contacted a few guys to see if they knew anything about the carbon screws but they dusted me off like I had the flu. EVERY inquiry I made as to the purpose for the little carbon screws met with a dead end!
I sure wish I knew what those little screws were for!
Anyway, a good machinist can make just about anything.
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
My dad worked for IBM from the time he was drafted for Vietnam until the early 1990's. Found this in my 30+ year stash of model car parts.
And to bring it closer to back on topic, I am using the container to store a screw for a very old bolt action 20 gauge. Screw went missing and I got one for dad off the internet. He's bringing the shotgun to me today to repair it.
And to bring it closer to back on topic, I am using the container to store a screw for a very old bolt action 20 gauge. Screw went missing and I got one for dad off the internet. He's bringing the shotgun to me today to repair it.
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