gp spring and shim question

[silverback]

the reason i am asking as most of us would like a smoother trigger or the best action we can achieve. Still i want it to be reliable with all ammo i may come across.


i was out at the range yesterday and took my gp 100 4 inch ss and blued 6 inch. Both have the exact same weight springs.

Both shoot reliably with all ammo in DA. heck i thought the tula ammo were hard primers and both shoot them reliably.

Now i got some Fiocchi 142 grain the only one that will shoot in DA reliably is the 4 inch. the 6 inch light strikes about once a cylinder. the 6 inch does fire reliably in SA.

any suggestions other than don't shoot fiocchi (LOL


second question about hammer shimms:


interested in these on my gp's.

where do you get them?
do you install on only on side or both?
do they make it a PIA to take down and reassemble?
Any info links you can offer?
are they worth while?


thanks in advance.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

You just found out there is a slight difference between your two revolvers. That's why the factory springs are a little heavier; to make up for any differences gun to gun.

 

[silverback]

yeah i guess its just the nature of the beast. i just thought it odd. I will have to step up the hammer spring in the 6 inch as i want it 100% reliable with what ever ammo i may be able to find.

the other thing that seems odd is the difference between blued and SS guns. During my recent comparison of four weapons it seams that SS guns have slicker triggers up front and react better to springs and polishing. i know that the blued guns have SS trigger parts and it shouldn't make a difference. Still it feels like there is a difference to me. the SS just seem slicker, light and smoother. I prefer the blued but the SS are starting to make me a convert.

OK.... are shims worth the effort?
are they only good for range fun?

 

[contender]

As noted, different firearms that are of the same model can feel & behave differently. Most springs are a bit heavier than sometimes needed to do as Jimbo has said.
The differences in the feel between blued & stainless can possibly be that (a) the stainless gun has had more action cycling than the blued one & has smoothed itself out earlier, or, (b) it may have had action work done, and (c) in general, the differences in metal types allows them to wear at different rates.

Shims.
Our own Lance Shively offers some.
If you wish to remove the slight side to side play or any play in an action, adding shims will do so & can make it feel a lot better. You add them to the places where the play is noted, left or right, both, or whatever as needed.
I have some & they do make the gun feel tighter, allows for exact same movement each time etc. I like what they have done for ME in MY guns I have them in.
Once I install them, I do not tear down that gun to where I'd have to remove & re-install the shims. I use spray types of cleaners to flush out the internals & re-lubricate. Easy.
Hope this helps.

 

[GP100man]

Look at the sides of the hammers , is the 6" scratched up more ???

If it is kenetic energy is being lessened by frame rub .

Disassembly/reassembly is eased by a touch of grease to hold the shimms to the hammer.

Get the kit from lance that has the hammer,trigger & DA dog shimms .

Shimm it as tite as possible to center & hammer/trigger MUST be completely free ,I try to shimm mine as close to .003" as possible .

If at all possible check DA&SA pulls on both before & after .

I use10#trigger for qwik/positive trigger return & 12#hammer for positve primer strikes even on srm primers (srm primers are used for reliability testsonly)

There`s 1 place that`s not really talked `bout that I`d like to mention .
While you have the trigger asm apart look at the well where the trigger plungers go ,can you see machine marks ???

If so take a 13/64" drill bit chucked backwards & fine lappin compound & smooth it up (turn slow)
clean throughly then do it again with Flitz, clean throughly, smoother ???

another area over looked are the wells the 2 plungers reside , do the plungers travel in em smoothly ?? if not do the same to those.

Polishing does`nt hurt either ,just don`t get to happy with the dremel!

Dry firing is not recommended for breakin in Rugers !!

They`re BIG & TUFF as they come but remember those BIG TUFF cyls. have to be stopped & it`s the cyl. notches & latch that catches the devil when dry firing .

Am I saying not to dry "practice" NO ,just don`t sit around watching JUSTIFIED & mindlessly pullin the trigger 700 times in the hour it`s on.

Now ,there`s places I`ve learned not to polish & while the IBOK says to, I don`t , I believe at the ejector teeth/notches & pawl fit/finish & the pawl window are 2 places where the parts will be more dureable if worn/burnished/broke (whatever you wanna call it)in.
I DO NOT alter trigger/hammer sear angles!

This is my opinion & actions I take with my GPs .

 

[silverback]

GP100man,

Great tip on the where the plungers reside. I was cleaning today did exactly what you suggested. really made trigger feel better. I did not how ever have your post up and forgot the polishing where the plunger sits in the frame. I do have one that could use that as take down is a PIA. the other is like butter.

So when I decide on which ruger I am going to keep and get the shims I will do that one.

I finally decided to trade or sell off my sp101 357 4 inch and look for a security six. I think it will be a better fit for my hands.

 

[andyo5]

Go with a heavier hammer spring in the 6", or shoot ammo with softer primers.

 

[silverback]

anyone ever take a cylinder apart? looks simple but.......

 

[GP100man]

The cyl comes apart easy ,but reassembly requires 3 hands !!

I flush mine with Brakleen & blow the crude out with compressed air then litely oil.
If Blued make sure ya blaster cleaner won`t remove blue!