Ruger Hunter Super Blackhawk spring question

iwanna

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
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12
I'm told the previous owner removed one of two "trigger springs" on my Ruger. The trigger pull weight is around 2+ pounds. That's all I know. I'm trying to figure out what was done to it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
drichi is likely correct.
Often,, people will want a "lighter" trigger, & will unhook one leg of the trigger return spring to get that.
However,, I have seen a few where they actually cut off one leg of the spring also. As he says,, pull the grip panels off, look at the trigger return spring to see if it has (2) legs, one on each side of the grip frame. They hook over a pin at the top of the g/f.

PS; I highly recommend that people get a proper action job & not do this modification. I have purchased a few guns that the owners thought were broken or whatever, only to find the unhooked leg of the trigger spring binding the mainspring.
 
I unhooked one side on my .17 HMR Hunter and it started hanging up on the casting. Waiting for a Midway promo to buy a Power Custom kit.
 
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The previous owner almost certainly removed the smaller "trigger plunger spring" to lighten the pull. You now have a very light trigger, but you must test it thoroughly to ensure it's reliable with your ammunition.
 
You can bend the legs of the factory spring to reduce trigger pull. That way both legs remain where they belong.
Bend is such a harsh sounding fix. Way back at my first job out of school I worked as a typewriter and photocopier repair guy and the corporate training guys told us that when a client asked what we did we told them "I re-formed the spring to factory specifications" :-)

My company HATED the word bend!
 
Well, since most places or people find no offense in the word "bend" we can use it here! :D

I have had a few Rugers cross my path that had either a leg of one side of the trigger return spring unhooked,, or a modified bent spring. And of course,, I've had aftermarket springs in guns tried here as well.
Every time I see this stuff, I fall back upon some of the world's best shooters I've had discussions with,, that agrees with my hands on experience. A proper action job, done by a person who understands the actions & how they work,, easily trumps any such alterations by the average person.
I have a factory built,, El Dorado SA handgun,, that many SWEAR it has a hair trigger. Or they think it's got less than a 1 lb pull. When I show them the trigger pull using a gauge,, and it takes 2.7 lbs,, they are amazed.

Simply put,, a gun is a manual, mechanical machine. To make it work smoother & more efficiently,, the parts need to be properly fitted & work together & not against each other when operating. The term; "Well oiled machine" is a great way to paraphrase it sorta.

Bending parts, or taking parts & modifying how they work is not the best way to get a get a mechanical machine to work as smoothly as it can.

Often,, we hear how a S&W revolver has a much nicer action or smoother action right out of the box. Well, when you look at the internals of a S&W vs a Ruger,, you see more parts, working in a different manner,, that HAD to be fitted to closer tolerances to work. As such,, not only the design,, but the fitting of the parts was done differently,, and the result is a smoother feeling action.
But I've also seen quite a few Ruger revolvers,, when the same time & treatment of their fitted parts were given extra care & fitment,, feel smoother than a S&W.

That said,, many people feel that a gun should be "perfect" right out of the box,, or try to compare apples to oranges when looking at them. Throw in how many may not want to spend extra money to have a proper action job done, but are willing to spend a few bucks in such parts as springs etc hoping for an improvement.
But most gunsmiths,, including many home types,, (NOT Bubba's) who have a basic understanding of the internals of a revolver,, can disassemble one, and easily learn how to smooth off rough spots or edges. They will often get a much better revolver feel by simply "de-burring" tiny edges or rough spots in the internals.
Others,, (and this has been done a lot) will just clean the internals,, fill it with a mild abrasive,, such as toothpaste, or even a good oil,, and dry fire it a lot. This too will work in smoothing off those tiny places where the internal parts fit & operate together.
Many are the well used but cared for Rugers that have just been operated enough to smooth them up a lot.

These thoughts if mine have been proven time & time again,, but are often overlooked by people wanting a "quick fix!"
 
I never liked the "poor boy's trigger" mod for New Model Rugers. Springs are cheap and I replace them with Wolff.



The previous owner almost certainly removed the smaller "trigger plunger spring" to lighten the pull. You now have a very light trigger, but you must test it thoroughly to ensure it's reliable with your ammunition.
Uh, what? There is only one trigger spring and it doesn't have a plunger.
 
When I determine that I need a lighter spring, I use Wolff Gunsprings.... they've never failed me:
https://www.gunsprings.com/

J.

I purchased the heavier (40 oz) Ruger SA trigger springs from Wolff and found that they were not a discernible improvement over the stock springs (as determined by a trigger pull gauge).

I then went through all my Ruger SAs and bent the spring legs approximately 30 degrees after cleaning up any grittiness. Gives a 2-3 lb trigger pull which seems good to me. I think the stock was 3.5-4.5 lb after cleanup.

ETA: it is possible to bend the legs incorrectly and cause binding as well.
 
I purchased the heavier (40 oz) Ruger SA trigger springs from Wolff and found that they were not a discernible improvement over the stock springs (as determined by a trigger pull gauge).

I then went through all my Ruger SAs and bent the spring legs approximately 30 degrees after cleaning up any grittiness. Gives a 2-3 lb trigger pull which seems good to me. I think the stock was 3.5-4.5 lb after cleanup.

ETA: it is possible to bend the legs incorrectly and cause binding as well.
I normally purchase the lighter springs and find they are always a great improvement.

J.
 
I normally purchase the lighter springs and find they are always a great improvement.

J.

Fair enough. Finding no info about the factory weight on the Wolff site and reading some cautions about overly light springs, I was conservative in my approach and found it offered no improvement over the stock spring and certainly wasn't as good as the stock spring with bent legs.

Same amount of install time, minimum 5$ cheaper per gun.
 

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