Does the SP and GP Have Any Weaknesses?

JackBull

Hunter
Joined
Dec 3, 2021
Messages
3,327
City & State/Province
Wyoming, Montana
So many internet posters are claiming their new SW, Colt etc are heaving problems out of the box, especially with MIM parts. Curious is the SP and GP nave any know issues and/or parts that tend to break?
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't really call them weaknesses, so much as slight correctable issues, the biggest complaint I have heard is the trigger, and it is correct that a stock GP trigger isn't near as nice as an older pre-lock S&W or Colt 1st gen Snake gun, but a bit of work and a 15 dollar trigger spring pack from Wolff really gets it close. eta, I can't recall hearing of any GP or SP actually breaking parts.
 
I have had a GP100 for over 20 years with no issues. I have had several SP101s, and the only issue I ever had was the trigger pulls on them are not great, and they are kind of big for a snub nose revolver. Don't think I ever have had one with the MIM parts though.
 
If either are good to go out of the box they're likely good for life.

As far as Colts having problems due to MIM I'd like to know what. The only way that could cause problems is because of breakages. And if that's the case, Colt isn't making it correctly. Otherwise I can't possibly conceive how it could be a problem over any other part that's designed & sized correctly.
 
Out of the box, minor issues related to lack of cleanup after machining in trigger group come to mind. Think I've had one or two with chips or burrs in the trigger return spring pocket. If you're doing an action job, you'll have the opportunity to clean that area anyway.

Pre-MIM models used to benefit from trigger shims to minimize hammer rubbing. Pre-MIM triggers and hammer knurling were very sharp and benefitted from some stoning or honest wear.

Have not had any parts breakage in either GP or SP models.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
Parts breakage is rare on a Ruger revolver. The complaints that I see/hear are regarding assembly not the quality of the parts. The most common complaints are:
The barrel canted a hair.
Chambers that didn’t get a great job of polishing.
Excessive barrel-cylinder gap.
End shake.
Ill fitting grips.
I only put my money down after I have examined a revolver regardless of who the manufacturer is. Polymer framed autos are a different matter. They rarely have any issues of any kind. I just don’t think they have much character. Practicality-yes, character-no.

Best Regards,
ADP3
 
There was a time when if you bought a GP or SP you'd have to check to make sure the barrel was not rotated too much making the front sights off. Don't know if this is still an issue but I've carefully checked all that I have purchased. I had some pretty sharp edges on a stainless SP trigger guard. Some time with some emmory paper worked it out. As with any firearm purchase check it out before yea take it home. It's a manufactured product built to tolerances and it might not be prefect out of the box. Sure QC is supposed to take care of issues but not all QC is top quality. Same goes for all manufacturers.
 
I wouldn't really call them weaknesses, so much as slight correctable issues, the biggest complaint I have heard is the trigger, and it is correct that a stock GP trigger isn't near as nice as an older pre-lock S&W or Colt 1st gen Snake gun, but a bit of work and a 15 dollar trigger spring pack from Wolff really gets it close. eta, I can't recall hearing of any GP or SP actually breaking parts.
MIght there be a thread or instructions elsewhere on doing this?
 
If either are good to go out of the box they're likely good for life.

As far as Colts having problems due to MIM I'd like to know what. The only way that could cause problems is because of breakages. And if that's the case, Colt isn't making it correctly. Otherwise I can't possibly conceive how it could be a problem over any other part that's designed & sized correctly.
Allegedly the MIM hammers break on the new Colts and Colt only warranties for 1 year.
 
MIght there be a thread or instructions elsewhere on doing this?
If you go to Triggershims.com Lance has excellent instructions & videos that make installation of his springs & shims easy. I'd advise to not assume your GP100 will "need" any tinkering to make it acceptable to you. I installed hammer shims to stop the hammer from rubbing the frame but it was a more cosmetic fix than a functional one. I installed a12# mainspring that lightened the trigger without affecting reliability.
 
Last edited:
The only real weakness is the desire created to buy more of them after you've purchased your first one.

On a more serious note, the only real systemic weakness is the weight. Generally an SP101 isn't bad, but it can get a bit heavy if you have problems with your back, sacroiliac, sciatica and your holster/belt isn't optimized.
 
I'm a real newb here, so I have little idea on what all is around this site, But IMO, anybody with a bit of mechanical ability should be able to do it. and it really does make a major difference.
I installed Wolff springs on a SP101 a couple weeks ago without watching any videos. I was surprised how easy it was and it improved the trigger.
 
I installed Wolff springs on a SP101 a couple weeks ago without watching any videos. I was surprised how easy it was and it improved the trigger.
every single Ruger I buy gets a set of springs at the least, most get a set of grips that I like, the American rifles even got some upgrades, Not saying Rugers are bad out of the box, but they are built to a price point, so I will do upgrades that suit me. Heck I have one 10/22 that the only Ruger parts on it is the magazines..
 
I'm a visual learner so I recommend watching this verrrry long video, then selectively applying the techniques in this video to change your springs.

It's the owner of the company doing the entire procedure. The plus is you watch him perform every step... the downside is you might fail asleep before he gets to the next step.
Personally I:
1. Wouldn't polish everything like he did. Just the necessary surfaces.
2. I would be very "soft" polishing sear surfaces. He states numerous times that "polishing isn't like sanding", yes... it is exactly like sanding but with the abrasive carried in the paste instead of on a sheet.
Use common sense, you'll be fine.
3. I would clean every part that got polished to remove the polishing paste. Mineral spirits or Brakekleen I guess?
4. Following step 3, I would absolutely lubricate everything with gun (mineral) oil before applying the grease to install parts with. But I also live and die by the "if it slides or scrapes on another surface it gets grease, if it rolls on another surface it gets oil." mantra.
IIRC he states that he consistently gets 5 lb DA triggers and 2.5 lb SA triggers on GP100s and SP101s. But the disclaimer says the trigger pulls are +/- 1 lb. Soon you could get a 1-1/2 lb SA trigger. Might be a bit light for a holstered gun, I think... but it's not a semiautomatic cocked and locked.
Feedback on a 1-1/2 lb trigger please?
I'll be over here with my 🍿.
 
Over the years I have owned probably 4 different GP100 revolvlers and one sp101 and I've never had an issue with any of them, virtually bullet proof.
 
Allegedly the MIM hammers break on the new Colts and Colt only warranties for 1 year.
Sadly a double boo boo IMO. If hammers break there process sucks, as MIM can be very durable when done right. Otherwise, a distinct 1 year warantee? not cool.

But, if a part is bad from manufacturing it will likely show up early in the game, not down the road.
 
If you go to Triggershims.com Lance has excellent instructions & videos that make installation of his springs & shims easy. I'd advise to not assume your GP100 will "need" any tinkering to make it acceptable to you. I installed hammer shims to stop the hammer from rubbing the frame but it was a more cosmetic fix than a functional one. I installed a12# mainspring that lightened the trigger without affecting reliability.
Anyone have a source for hammer and trigger shim sets that can ship to Commiefornia? Triggershims say they no longer ship to us. Badwordbadwordbadword
(And yes I can gripe... I voted yesterday)
 
Have a SP 101. No problems with it ever. On the advice of a gunsmith I changed the hammer and trigger springs. World of difference when shooting DA. I don't shoot many 357 in it. Just a wee bit 'interesting'. Never had anyone shoot a complete cylinder except my son and I. In 38 it is a champ.
 
Here are examples of both. Pics from GB ads.
1000001006.jpg
1000001004.jpg
 
Back
Top