Chronometer Recommendations
- Thread starter jack
- Start date
Bucks Owin
Hunter
Had my F-1 Chrony for a decade or so now. Still working fine. Think it was $89 back when...
Seems the only way to kill one is to (accidently) shoot it! :lol:
Seems the only way to kill one is to (accidently) shoot it! :lol:
mr surveyor
SP-101
F-1 Chrony here too .... I don't mind keeping notes at the bench 
jd
jd
wizofwas
Buckeye
I have the F-1 Master also. And I take my own notes.
GP100man
Buckeye
F-1 here also ,doing the math ain`t that hard !. Anyways for the $$ they`re hard to beat, ifin ya wan`t get the Master .
WIL TERRY
Buckeye
OEHLER !!
contender
Ruger Guru
I'm with Wil Terry, I own an Ohler, and I've had a Chrony. I sold the Chrony quickly. I've had my Ohler for a long time & it's a fine machine.
Bucks Owin
Hunter
Soon I need to get a "round tuit" and buy the remote for my F-1 I guess. I use mine on a tripod immediately in front of the bench for readings 3' from the muzzle for handgun loads. Over the years, the readout has become so lube spattered from cast bullets that it has become hard to see! Not to mention pockmarked from unburnt powder.A few years ago I had a brainfart of genius and began putting a strip of scotch tape over the screen before a session, but I'm afraid I was a dollar short and a day late with that practice...
I suppose that I am torture testing my old F-1 every time I use it by running it so close to the muzzle when you think of the thousands of concussions it has withstood, but it takes it in stride. For awhile I used it for clocking my high intensity rifle loads at 3' too but had to settle on 6' for that testing...I kept knocking the whole rig over from the muzzleblast! :shock:
Would I buy another F-1? What do you think... 8)
I suppose that I am torture testing my old F-1 every time I use it by running it so close to the muzzle when you think of the thousands of concussions it has withstood, but it takes it in stride. For awhile I used it for clocking my high intensity rifle loads at 3' too but had to settle on 6' for that testing...I kept knocking the whole rig over from the muzzleblast! :shock:
Would I buy another F-1? What do you think... 8)
mr surveyor
SP-101
mine is the F1 with the remote, and it is handy being able to control and see the display. Only been using it for a bit over a year, but I suppose I've experienced most of the typical anomalies of sky screen issues on cloudy/dusky days and muzzle blast distortions, but those are probably plagues that most "hobby type" chrono's will suffer from.
jd
jd
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
I have this one with no complaints, you can also add a remote if you want.
Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/852429/competition-electronics-prochrono-digital-chronograph
Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/852429/competition-electronics-prochrono-digital-chronograph
I was reading on the web that some folks make a "shield" of some sort to protect the chrono from lead and lube being expelled from the muzzle. Particularly on snubs .... I would be testing my sp101-2 quite a bit. Anyone here do this?
jack said:
I made one from an 1/8" clear acrylic sheet. Used a heat gun to form the edges. I was worried about the chronograph being damaged with muzzle loader powders.
The covering did not appear to affect the chronograph negatively.
Bucks Owin
Hunter
My "scotch tape over the readout method" works quite well. Simply peel off the tape after each use...
I kinda get a kick out of the battle scarred appearance of mine... 8)
Then again, I may be a little warped... :lol:
I kinda get a kick out of the battle scarred appearance of mine... 8)
Then again, I may be a little warped... :lol:
Lost Sheep
Single-Sixer
My "shield" is made of two pieces of channel iron tough enough to withstand a slanting hit from a 500 S&W. One is inclined in front of the sensor unit to protect the front of the device and the other rides between the two sensors.jack said:
The iron cost almost as much as the chronograph, but is good insurance.
By the way, a chronometer is a supremely accurate timepiece (first invented to enable the determination of longitude at sea). A chronograph is used to find the velocity of objects (bullets, arrows, paintballs, etc.).
protoolman
Service-Sixer
old f1 user here. Brother and I bought it years ago on shares to test our handloads. Still going strong.
mr surveyor
SP-101
Jack
I just stick with 10 feet for both handguns and long guns. Generally put a target up at either 25 yds or 50 yds, and carefully align the chrony and the shooting rest, for both windage and elevation, with the target. I look to align the center of the "V" as close as possible to give myself a bit of wiggle room .... and there's not just a whole lot of real estate in that "V" to work with. After a while you gain enough confidence with the set up that you will actually be able to concentrate on the sights and target so as to have useful data on the other end of your ballistics study. As long as you don't change that magic point in space intended to be occupied by the center of your bore at the bench.
The reason I generally stick to the 10' minimum distance is because I'm currently hooked on playing with the .44 mag loads. The "blast effect" has caused me some error messages when I had the screens closer.
Just my experiences, for what it's worth.
jd
I just stick with 10 feet for both handguns and long guns. Generally put a target up at either 25 yds or 50 yds, and carefully align the chrony and the shooting rest, for both windage and elevation, with the target. I look to align the center of the "V" as close as possible to give myself a bit of wiggle room .... and there's not just a whole lot of real estate in that "V" to work with. After a while you gain enough confidence with the set up that you will actually be able to concentrate on the sights and target so as to have useful data on the other end of your ballistics study. As long as you don't change that magic point in space intended to be occupied by the center of your bore at the bench.
The reason I generally stick to the 10' minimum distance is because I'm currently hooked on playing with the .44 mag loads. The "blast effect" has caused me some error messages when I had the screens closer.
Just my experiences, for what it's worth.
jd
Iron Mike Golf
Blackhawk
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2010
- Messages
- 945
mswill said:
I've had the V2 for a couple of years now. I've been very happy with it. A big pro on the pros/cons list is that I can use it at an indoor pistol range:
1. No cease fire needed
2. Someone in the next lane can't shoot it
3. Lighting is not an issue
4. Set up is about a minute: get out the bayo and strap it on the barrel.
Also, I don't need a "range" to get muzzle velocities. Since the sensor is attached to the barrel, I can just go out back and fire into the ground.
The version I have won't do semi-auto pistols and it needs about 5 inches of barrel to work on a revolver. You also can only measure muzzle velocity. You can't set it up downrange.
Cheesewhiz
Hunter
Iron Mike Golf said:
That's pretty neat, I never saw one of those before. I guess I'm not all up on everything new
. I would like to know how well it works with the rail adapter for a semi-auto pistol. I guess I have some researching to do but I am happy with my current one even with it's limits in an indoor range.Similar threads
