CANNOT get the bolt pin back into my MKIII

[firebirdude]

I don't know what the heck the problem is, but I can't seem to get my bolt pin up through the the frame and bottom of the barrel. Can't even get it up far enough to where the bolt even comes into play. Just right at the frame/barrel location. I know the barrel is pushed back far enough because it slightly sticks past the frame. The front of the frame lines up perfectly with where the actual rifled part of the barrel begins. If I remove the bolt and look at what's going on under light, I can clearly see both holes are lined up perfectly, but the damn bolt pin just doesn't move through them and on through the bolt/top of the barrel. I've tried removing the barrel, reversing it, then sliding it through both holes simultaneously, just to make sure it actually does go through. haha Obviously, the barrel isn't lined up properly, but I'm sure it is..... am I retarded?....... must be :evil:

 

[ranger1]

Look at the solution to problem # 3 in the below link!

http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/field_strip_pcs.htm

 

[firebirdude]

Ok. After using a toothpick to poke at where the two holes mate, there is a little lip there.... but it's on the sides of the holes. It looks like the barrel is twisted a 1/64". After removing the barrel again and reinstalling, I noticed the barrel seems to have some play in it before you push it back into place (right when you place the two square together).

 

[firebirdude]

Look at the solution to problem # 3 in the below link!

http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/field_strip_pcs.htm

Bolt PIN. The bolt slides in fine.

 

[firebirdude]

Ok. Finally got it back together.

It looks like the barrel is twisted a 1/64". After removing the barrel again and reinstalling, I noticed the barrel seems to have some play in it before you push it back into place (right when you place the two square together).

THAT was the problem. :evil: Think this is the last time I'm breaking this thing down... :roll:

 

[ranger1]

Glad you got it back together. It gets easier the more often you do it.

 

[resident]

The standard .22 autopistols are the most difficult disassembly/reassembly of all the Rugers, IMO. I almost never strip mine as a result.
Gunscrubber is my friend.

 

[Donaldjr1969]

The standard .22 autopistols are the most difficult disassembly/reassembly of all the Rugers, IMO. I almost never strip mine as a result.
Gunscrubber is my friend.

Resident, with regards to Gun Scrubber, is there a version that is safe for the polymer framed 22/45 like mine? I like to disassemble the pistol after almost every range outing so as to clean the gunk that gets into the trigger group and all that stuff down there.

 

[rooger]

Another tip I've seen is to first check hole alignment by inserting the bolt pin DOWN through the barrel then into the frame.

 

[polseszczyk]

Gun Scrubber makes a polymer safe version.

Samuel

 

[firebirdude]

Is it weaker? If not, why even offer stuff that's not polymer safe!?!?

 

[blume357]

Think this is the last time I'm breaking this thing down... :roll:

I felt the same way firebirdude even after the 2nd time I did it... then on the third time I figured out you have not only line up the barrel like you said but also (VERY IMPORTANT) push the internal hammer to the right place and not rely on gravity to let it fall exactly right.

In fact I may break my MKIII down today for the fourth time... I've probably put close to 5000 rounds through it since the last cleaning.

 

[Short9]

Learning to play guitar is a pain in the butt, at first.
Learning to fly an airplane is a pain in the butt, at first.
Learning math is a pain in the butt, at first.
Learning how to break down a MK series pistol is a pain in the butt, at first.

See a pattern? Just keep doing it, you'll get better and it'll get easier, I promise.

 

[Pal Val]

+1 to the wisdom inShort9's post. Things that give you no trouble on the first try usually teach you little, too. Putting a Ruger .22 back the first time taught me a lot. I came up with curses I had never even imagined before! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Miata Mike]

I was drilling take down and reassembling my Mark II target and was doing pretty good (Under a minute to strip and put together), when I forgot to pull the magazine out. Now I knew it was unloaded after having stripped it at least 5 times already, and it would not go back together for nothing!

I haven't touched it in almost half a year now and feel I could figure it out again in a couple of minutes. I may try it on my newly acquired Mark I bull barrel when I pick it up Sunday or Monday after my 48 hour wait is up.

 

[Donaldjr1969]

For those with 22/45s, I wonder how many issues were caused during reassembly by inadvertently performing the steps for the MkII/MkIII standard models? I know the instructions specifically mention "For 22/45 models, skip to step 7A" in mine.

In the absence of Gunscrubber, I did a fieldstrip of my 22/45 MkIII last night after 3 trips to the range. Some here may remember my fieldstrip from hell rant several weeks ago. This time went a LOT smoother! I made sure that the bolt stop fin was fully rearward so that it did not go forward of the hammer. And this time, I just kept my instructions in front of me the whole time. And it went a lot smoother. So from now on, I am not going to try to set any speed records or perform a reassembly with my proverbial eyes closed. I am just going to have the instructions out at all times and visually confirm each step I perform. It's worth it if it prevents another reassembly headache.

 

[jim52]

Like anything else in life, the more you do it, the easier it gets.
I've had my MK III Hunter for about two weeks now and gotta say I was frustrated at first, but I knew that with practice, it should/would get easier. When I bought my first 1911 I tore it down so many times that I got to where I could do it blind folded.

The key to learning the MK III is to use net resources,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYHJm2P4kP0 (this one helped me a lot)
and to field strip it over and over until it becomes second nature. If you only shoot and tear down a couple times a year, then yea, it's gonna be a real pain.

In the 2 weeks that I've owned my MK III, I've torn it down about 6 times and each time gets a little easier.

Good luck...

 

[raw6464]

Ok. It looks like the barrel is twisted a 1/64". After removing the barrel again and reinstalling, I noticed the barrel seems to have some play in it before you push it back into place (right when you place the two square together).

If your barrel is loose on the frame this procedure will fix it. It is reversible with a dental pick should you desire.

This procedure will fix a loose receiver to barrel fitting on Mark pistols by using putty epoxy to take up all the space worn by wear and tear between the square receiver lug hole and the frame lug it attaches to.

Step 1. Break the gun down to receiver/barrel and frame.
Step 2. With alcohol or acetone on a Qtip clean out the square hole on the barrel that the lug on the frame fits into, no oil based solvents please.
Step 3. Again with a Qtip place a film of oil on the lug in the frame… so nothing will stick to it.
Step 4. Mix a small amount putty epoxy, the kind you can form and shape.
Step 5. Place a small amount of the mixed putty epoxy in lug hole on the barrel.
Step 6. Reassemble the barrel to the frame and make sure you install the bolt stop completely in the assembled barrel receiver. You may have to bang the front of the barrel to get it far enough down to install the bolt stop. If you can't reassemble the bolt stop you've probably put too much epoxy in the lug hole and the receiver is not going far enough down on the frame… remove the excess epoxy and retry.
Step7. After you've obtained a tight fit with the gun completely reassembled with the epoxy, disassemble it again and remove any excess epoxy that oozed from the barrel and frame. You just want the epoxy to be in the lug hole on the barrel.
Step 8. Then leave the gun disassembled overnight before the final reassembling to give the epoxy time to cure.

I've done this to my MarkIII and have cycled the barrel on and off many times with no adverse reaction and the barrel is still tight on the frame... the epoxy has stood up quite well. We're dealing with thousands of an inch here so there's not going to be much epoxy in the lug hole. This procedure is repeatable if you take down the gun enough to wear the epoxy down and if you don't like it at all just take a dental pick and scrape the epoxy out. It's easier than the soda can spacer and safer than squeezing the frame in a vice.

P.S. I was using heavy gear grease to take up on the lug and it worked. It just got to be a pain in the a$$ cleaning up so I experimented with the epoxy and it seems to work.

 

[firebirdude]

So now I've taken my MKIII to the range two times since this teardown. I'm getting misfires like crazy now. Tried it with Federal bulk and CCI mini mags. Misfiring about 1 out of every magazine. Could I have screwed something up during teardown/cleaning? I can't imagine how it would work at all if I installed something incorrectly. But prior to my teardown I had maybe 2 misfires out of thousands of rounds shot. Now I'm getting them every 10-15 rounds.

 

[rooger]

I'm getting misfires like crazy now.

Are you comparing the firing pin strikes for any noticeable differences between a fired round and a misfire? I would also double-check the bolt parts, especially the rebound spring and the rebound spring support (part nos. #19 and #20 in the MKIII manual.) Good luck. Please post your findings once you solve the problem.