can the new model...

Sharps40

Buckeye
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
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bisley hammer be fitted to a 3 screw that has the safety conversion? (will the side og the bisley need milled like the conversion hammer or is there meat in either of the xfer bars to clearance the full width bisley)
 
There's more than just the transfer bar clearance-problem at play here.
I don't think that there's enough "meat" in the NM hammer to fashion a safe half-cock notch for loading an OM....and....even if you get past that, what are you going to do about a hammer-cam to operate the OM "conversion" locking bolt (AKA latch)?

All in all..........assuming that one could get a satisfactory weld on the cast parts, it seems to me that it would be easier to cut/adapt the Bisely spur to the OM Conversion hammer.

Not trying to discourage you, just thinking out loud.

DGW
 
Well, thats pretty much why I'm asking....exploring possiblities. I figgered to fit the old model locking bolt in place but also went ahead and sent RP a query on his bisley for old model hammer. Looks to me like the RP bisley hammer and the old model locking bolt are a large part of the answer. Loose the conversion xfer bar, loose the conversion locking bolt and amputate the xfer bar lever off the conversion trigger.

I'll wait to see what RP says. Agreed though, a NM bisley hammer is unlikely dooable.

No. Welding is not my forte and I'd rather see if it can be done by a home smith then post up here for others that can't weld.
 
From reading your last post, it seems that you're deep-sixing the "conversion" action on this particular project.

I've retro-fitted "conversion" triggers to make 'em work with a standard OM hammer and bolt in a simular manner as you describe.....except....I also found it necessary to mill away the extra thickness which was left behind after cutting the stubb off.
You may also want to note that the sear-edge of the conversion trigger is more narrow than that of an original OM trigger, and most-usualy a bit taller from the trigger's pivot hole. It will work in spite of the sear 'n notch being different widths, but the sear may require some dressing-down in order to get the hammer to cock before the cylinder gets bound up by the bolt and pawl. I've heard of others addressing the binding condition by modifing the pawl instead. That may work too...dunno...I just allways did it like I do it.

Hope this helped.

DGW
 
Investigation of all options. Nothing is deep sixed till the project is completed one way or the other.

But, I'm not interested in the old model hammer at all, neither original or conversion types. My preference is the Bisley hammer. Either NM conversion or RPs Bisley for OM.

Welding up a hammer is not an option.

Its looking like NM Bisley is a no go since it has no half cock position.
 
I was clear on you not wanting an OM hammer. I was just trying to help by throwing-out what I've learned about using the "conversion" trigger in an otherwise "unconverted" OM Blackhawk, which your's is surely going to be. No getting out of that, RP Bisely hammer or not.....because....no matter what, if ya aint using the "conversion" hammer then ya aint going to use the "conversion" latch, transfer bar, nor the "conversion" trigger (as-is)....unless ya figure out a way to fabricate/install a suitable hammer cam to trip the latch, then mill away enough of the after-market hammer so's the transfer bar will work, and then grind the hammer nose to allow the bar to work.

I was also clear on the "no welding" thing. So, the only other option I see is to gather-up the proper OEM (non-conversion) action parts (sans the hammer which you don't want) and fit it all together using the aftermarket (Bisely) hammer. Assuming that the hammer in question is up to spec, that seems to be the easiest course of action.

Hope this helps.

DGW
 
Well, I am less confused now. Thanks. I gotta pull apart my 3 screw, the conversion and the NM and look over the parts. Once I see the parts laid out, it'll be more clear. That and a Response from RP....if it ever comes, small shops can be bad for resondin to tech questions and then I'll decide if and how to move out.
 

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