I have an early model 3" barrel .38 Spl SP101. I am unable to remove the trigger guard assembly. I am able to push the plunger in, no problem, but the assembly will not budge no matter how hard I pull. I have tried down, down and back, and back with and without the trigger partially pulled. Any suggestions? This is the first time I have tried to remove the assembly.
Can not remove SP101 trigger assembly.
- Thread starter kwh
- Start date
You need a Ruger popper 8) Go to auction links on the main page and the third post down (stickey) is were you get the popper from gp100. Gp makes them and they are the cats meow. Ruger should have included one in every box.
Eric
Eric
Guess you removed the hammer strut and remove the hammer first? While pushing the trigger guard housing latch completely in, pull down on the trigger guard housing so the rear swings downward.
If the trigger guard housing refuses to move while the plunger is depressed, you may use a small screwdriver to gently pry the housing away from the frame. Do not pry on the seam where the trigger guard housing mates with the frame.
Why are you disassembing your SP101 if I might ask?
If the trigger guard housing refuses to move while the plunger is depressed, you may use a small screwdriver to gently pry the housing away from the frame. Do not pry on the seam where the trigger guard housing mates with the frame.
Why are you disassembing your SP101 if I might ask?
contender
Ruger Guru
Welcome to the Forum!
As noted, good advice above. I have 3 of the poppers. One I bought from Brownells, one from another place, (CRS) and one I made myself.
But I wanted to share something. You can smooth up the action, you can add shims, but due to mechanical differences,,, a Ruger will not feel like any S&W. It can be made quite nice,,, but they are different mechanically.
As noted, good advice above. I have 3 of the poppers. One I bought from Brownells, one from another place, (CRS) and one I made myself.
But I wanted to share something. You can smooth up the action, you can add shims, but due to mechanical differences,,, a Ruger will not feel like any S&W. It can be made quite nice,,, but they are different mechanically.
GP100man
Buckeye
Some trigger groups I`ve actually pryed from the frame ,just pick a spot that`ll be covered in case ya leave a mark.
Stoning on the rear face will make the trigger group easier to remove, but go slow ,as too much will allow the group to jump rearward & create a gap on the fit & also change trigger to hammer relations.
Stoning on the rear face will make the trigger group easier to remove, but go slow ,as too much will allow the group to jump rearward & create a gap on the fit & also change trigger to hammer relations.
kwh said:
I took mine apart a couple mounths ago and did a trigger job polishing all the parts contact points, I didn't do the shim kit mine feels nice and tight without them, I did install a Wilson Combat spring kit using a ten pound trigger spring and ten pound hammer spring, shot real good when I was done, I like my action better than a S&W now. :D
