ammo dave
Bearcat
I found a spare hammer for my SP101 and removed the hammer spur. Now I would like to remove the SA notch on my hammer. There is a tiny notch at the bottom of the hammer. Is that the SA notch? See pics.
Remove SA notch on a bobbed SP101 hammer
- Thread starter ammo dave
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I would not do anything more to this hammer. You will be shooting it DA so no need to worry about the SA notch. The notch is cut during the machining of the hammer (meaning metal is taken away from the hammer). To remove it would be to add material and then smooth that area. If you decide to do this you will need to be careful not to change anything on the sear engagement ledge (also called the toe of the hammer). Plus, if you want to shoot it SA, you will still have that ability.
pisgah
Buckeye
Yes, you can do it; but,no, you don't need to. And especially if you don't know where it is without asking...
I think the point is that nobody sees the reason for doing it.
rkrcpa
Single-Sixer
I have two double action revolvers that I had the hammer spur removed and the single action cocking notch removed. In both instances I decided to remove the cocking notch in order to prevent a situation where the loaded revolver was cocked and not fired, requiring it to be decocked. I fully understand how to both cock and decock a revolver with no hammer spur but I can not be sure someone down the line who is not familiar with the revolver will be in that situation and not know what to do.
I do not have one in front of me to examine but yes, the little notch that you refer to is the single action notch. If you lay the hammer and trigger on a flat surface you can see how they interface. I believe simply removing the notch will render the hammer DAO.
I do not have one in front of me to examine but yes, the little notch that you refer to is the single action notch. If you lay the hammer and trigger on a flat surface you can see how they interface. I believe simply removing the notch will render the hammer DAO.
Not a smith but if you have a spare and the original why not look at them and see where to file that way? You have to take the original hammer out anyway.
I also have spare parts but not sure why you would change the hammer that is factory installed and functioning just to install a spare?
I also have spare parts but not sure why you would change the hammer that is factory installed and functioning just to install a spare?
contender
Ruger Guru
RoninPa is an expert on the Ruger DA revolvers. He gunsmiths them a LOT when necessary.
It's not that some do not know HOW to do it,, but more like trying to prevent a ruined part. It kinda goes back to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" attitude.
As noted,, removing the notch won't change anything & isn't necessary. But it's your gun, your parts & yes,, it can be done. But I've never done it,, & don't know how. So,, I defer to experts before I attempt anything I'm unfamiliar with.
It's not that some do not know HOW to do it,, but more like trying to prevent a ruined part. It kinda goes back to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" attitude.
As noted,, removing the notch won't change anything & isn't necessary. But it's your gun, your parts & yes,, it can be done. But I've never done it,, & don't know how. So,, I defer to experts before I attempt anything I'm unfamiliar with.
ammo dave, if you really want to make it a DAO hammer then do this: Look at the the extreme toe of the hammer, just above the SA notch. You want to keep it as long as possible. Take a fine file and gently file on the top of the notch and the bottom of the notch at the same time. You want to remove the "V" (or "L") shape, as view from the side but try to stay away from the front/top of the toe. Get it smoothed out so that the triggers single action sear won't catch on it. Once the trigger sear can't catch it and hold the hammer back, you're done. The way I would do it is to fill that notch by welding it (TIG) and then cleaning it up so that portion of the hammer is nice and smooth and the toe of the hammer has not been shortened. If the toe is shortened too much, it may not engage the trigger sear correctly and that could cause problems with the hammer releasing early and you could get misfires due to a shorter hammer travel. Plus if the hammer doesn't go back far enough the transfer bar may not go up far enough for the hammer face to hit it.
RoninPA is the go to guy on these but I've got a couple of photos in my files which might help:
Compare with the pictures I sent. You might have to work on the contour at the toe area.
For others on the forum, here is what a SP101 Factory DAO hammer looks like.
This is a SP101 SA/DA hammer (notice the little notch at the front up near the top of the toe) :
For others on the forum, here is what a SP101 Factory DAO hammer looks like.
This is a SP101 SA/DA hammer (notice the little notch at the front up near the top of the toe) :
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jmca
Single-Sixer
Post 16 photos is how I would attempt it!
Disclaimer: I am not an expert but am familiar with the inner workings.
Disclaimer: I am not an expert but am familiar with the inner workings.
Congratulations, now enjoy your "new" SP101.
