building a shed...... thoughts

[donut757]

like the title says, gonna build a shed on somewhat of a budget. Nothin fancy, just a 12x12 to keep ATV and garage junk in. But i come to you with these questions....

1) siding.... Do i sheath it and vinyl the walls? or i am looking at using the Smartside composite type stuff, i have never used it though. Smartside stuff would be cheaper for sure, but more up keep than basic vinyl.

2) pressure treated for flooring and 4x4s to place frame on... What for framing of the walls? standard framing or stay pressure treated?

3) pressure treated plywood for flooring, how thick?

4) shealthing, staying pressure treated? and also thickness?

4) screws vs nails??? I have a nailgun i was going to put sheathing up with, wasn't sure about framing though?


Any other advice yall can offer would be greatly appreciated

 

[contender]

First figure out how long you want the shed to last. The better quality materials will last a lot longer. I built a shed about 1-1/2 years ago, but I already had a bunch of free vinyl siding. I used that.
I used pressure treated materials anywhere I felt it might get exposure & wanted longer lasting materials.

(1) Smartsiding. I am building a little something right now, and I chose smart siding. EXCELLENT choice. Cut, install & paint. Done. Upkeep will be easier than you think.
(2) Use pressure treated for external exposure, especially under the floors where ground moisture could cause rot. In my shed, I used some pressure treated for framing, in places like corners etc. I did use some standard framing materials in places I knew would always be dry.
(3) I chose treated plywood for the flooring as I knew I'd be driving a potentially wet ATV or mower up on it, have the occasional oil or gas spill etc. I decided for strength & all I did 2 layers of flooring. I used 5/8" sub floor, and went over it with 1/2".
(4) I used standard plywood sheathing, wrapped it in Tyvek, then added my vinyl siding.
(5) I used screws in many places, but in others, my nail gun was also used. I used nails in places where "flex" wasn't an issue. I used screws in the floor. My nail gun got used in framing & sheathing.

Just my way of doing things.

 

[Dan in MI]

I built a 10x10 with gambrel roof, full 8' sides 20 years ago from scratch, on a slab. (not a kit. cheaper and BETTER) I used treated bottom plates standard lumber framing, and T-111 siding.

Two years ago I turned it 90* made it 12x16.5. I also lifted it up on treated 4x6's. I had no rot issues no structural problems of any kind and the way I cranked it up, down and around, by myself with a common floor jack it would caved if it wasn't still solid. I poured the new floor over the old 10x10 inside the 4x6's. I fully expect it to outlast me.

Unless you have weird weather versus MI I don't see a need to go over and above traditional building methods and materials.

 

[toysoldier]

The house I bought came with a storage shed that had plywood siding. It eventually deteriorated enough that I replaced it with Hardie board panels. That's been about 10 years ago, and it still is looking good.

I would recommend treated lumber for any exposed part. The overhanging rafter ends of my roof are starting to rot.

 

[Sax.45]

First, determine how big you wan't the shed, then make it bigger. I built a 12x16 thinking that it would be fine for my needs... Wrong, I wish I made it larger. :shock: :lol:

 

[gramps]

I built a 20x20 pole barn/shed to store unused kerosene heaters, farm equipment, and hay. Used 14 ft tall cedar logs for uprights(from my farm) with rough cut oak on the outside ( local hardwood flooring co seconds), and tin roof. Stood for 15 years till a tornado took it out, and scattered it over a mile!
gramps

 

[6gun]

Using vinyl siding you will want sheet the walls for sheer straight, I would use 1/2" plywood, but OSB is fine if you want to save money, really no reason to use presser threated for walls.

3/4" ply for the floor, pressure treated is a good idea for floor joists and ply.

Nails are fine for framing.

 

[SAJohn]

I highly recommend the book "Working Alone" by John Carroll. It may be at your library and Amazon has it. The book is full of good tricks and fairly detailed on framing. Thrift stores usually have helpful books for a buck. Nail sizes and spacing information will be in the books.

I have built two sheds, one 20' by 20' and the other 8' by 20'. (Outside dimensions work best when divisible by 4.) To keep costs down the foundations are bolted together 4" by 6" pressure treated lumber on top of a trenched gravel bed. Framing lumber is still relatively cheap so I over design with it.

The stick built roof framing is the trickiest, especially the ridgeboard. Roofs with a pitch greater than 6" in 12" are difficult to safely work on.

I use a come-along to square everything up.

I work out all of the detailed framing design on paper.

 

[Mobuck]

Make an effort to locate your runners directly under the wheel tracks of the ATV. I'd use treated lumber on everything from floor down(floor, floor supports, runners, and rim joist). Moisture will accumulate under the building rotting common lumber. Corrugated metal roof and siding is commonly used here in the midwest. If you're not familiar with handling metal, wood siding might be a better choice.
Lots of places selling ready to use storage sheds around here. Some are not much higher than the cost of materials so are a bargain. I build "deer houses"(portable deer blinds) as a sideline and have found my level of nit-picky(which is nothing compared to Tom's level of OCD) adds a lot of time to the process.

 

[powder smoke]

Lots of good advice in the above post. 5/4 Treated Decking will out
last any plywood for the floor even treated plywood.
Vinyl Siding is butt ugly. I am a builder Hate Vinyl does nothing but keep the rain off.
Thats all I got.

SA John Nice Job. ps

 

[Mike J]

I don't really have any advice. When I built my shed I got the materials from an old house I tore down. I framed with the wood from the house. I had just enough T-111 siding to use that for the front. The rest of the way around I used old saw mill 1" x 12"s that were the roof of the old house to side the rest of it board & batten style.I also used 1" x 12"s for the floor then put some 3/8" plywood I was given over them. I used nails & none of the wood was treated. I even recycled the tin roof & painted the old metal with silver dollar roof sealant to renew it's looks. I did have to buy the nails & paint though. I came up with a 16 x 16 shed for a song but it was a lot of work pulling nails & salvaging materials. I'm sure whatever you decide will do well.

 

[blume357]

personally, I'd go with metal for the roof and the sides.... is actually easier to install and should outlast anything else.... if you go to a commercial roofing place you can order metal roofing in custom lengths.... and it's really not that expensive when you figure out how much easier it is to install both on the roof and the sides... go with 26gage for a minimum... 24 is better but you pretty much have to pre-drill holes for 24 gage if you are using screws. And screws are the way to go with metal.

 

[pete44ru]

.

Check your local zoning ordinances for any req'd property line setback, and tax methods.

My municipality doesn't tax a moveable shed, so instead of foundation piers or a slab, I laid two 12"x12"x15' PT beans about 7' apart (parallel to each other), then framed the 2'x6'x12' floor joists atop them. (they also provide under-shed ventilation)

Working alone, I found it easiest, while building my 12'x12' shed, to nail together seven tri-angulated/braced 4'x4'x14' (cut 16 footer's) roof trusses (no ridge board req'd) on the ground, then installed one as a gable truss spanning the front/rear walls first (plumbing/bracing it), then the other trusses (one at a time, plumbing/bracing) 24" on center.

I then nailed a 2"x4"x7' collar tie to every-other rafter before covering the trusses with 4'x8'x3/4" plywood (not particle board or osb sheets), topped with a layer of 90# felt roof sheathing & common ashphalt roof shingles that matched the ones on my home.

I stood the 2"x4" framed walls atop the 3/4" plywood floor, one at a time, plumbing/bracing until tied in to another wall.

I later used some leftover plywood atop the collar ties for a small loft floor that accommodates my ladder treestands, fishing poles, scythe, etc - which frees up the walls for more lang-handled tool storage.

I used 3/4"x8"x12' T&G cedar (won't rot) planks, laid horizontally, for the walls & double door, then stained the outside.

I nailed 2"x4"x12" studs horizontally to the wall studs, on the inside rear & side walls, to hold rakes/shovels/sledgehammer/power lawn edger/etc.

Don't forget to install a vent/grill to each gable at the top - the ventilation will keep the shed contents in manageable condition. (I have motorcycles, lawnmowers, snow blowers, ladders, a generator,etc, etc, in mine w/o issue)

The whole project took me 6 partial (after work) days - but YMMV considerably.


.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Reminded me of another shed thread from some time ago. Don't do it like this one.

http://cheezburger.com/65285

 

[Xsales]

I would do a concrete slab for sure

Consider steel studs for the framing: no rotting, no bugs, no termites, no moisture, no warping issues

Roof and side walls your choice

Run electricity to it as well

 

[Colonel Daddy]

I would do a concrete slab for sure

Consider steel studs for the framing: no rotting, no bugs, no termites, no moisture, no warping issues

Roof and side walls your choice

Run electricity to it as well

Definitely a concrete slab if you live anywhere but the desert, and the slab thick enough that water is not likely to get in. I'd love to use slotted angle for framing with roofing felt or similar between the slab and frame but slotted angle is very difficult to find and lots of folks don't know what it is. If ya don't run electricity to the shed/shop, you may regret it later.

 

[6gun]

.

Check your local zoning ordinances for any req'd property line setback, and tax methods.

My municipality doesn't tax a moveable shed, so instead of foundation piers or a slab, I laid two 12"x12"x15' PT beans about 7' apart (parallel to each other), then framed the 2'x6'x12' floor joists atop them. (they also provide under-shed ventilation)

Working alone, I found it easiest, while building my 12'x12' shed, to nail together seven tri-angulated/braced 4'x4'x14' (cut 16 footer's) roof trusses (no ridge board req'd) on the ground, then installed one as a gable truss spanning the front/rear walls first (plumbing/bracing it), then the other trusses (one at a time, plumbing/bracing) 24" on center.

I then nailed a 2"x4"x7' collar tie to every-other rafter before covering the trusses with 4'x8'x3/4" plywood (not particle board or osb sheets), topped with a layer of 90# felt roof sheathing & common ashphalt roof shingles that matched the ones on my home.

I stood the 2"x4" framed walls atop the 3/4" plywood floor, one at a time, plumbing/bracing until tied in to another wall.

I later used some leftover plywood atop the collar ties for a small loft floor that accommodates my ladder treestands, fishing poles, scythe, etc - which frees up the walls for more lang-handled tool storage.

I used 3/4"x8"x12' T&G cedar (won't rot) planks, laid horizontally, for the walls & double door, then stained the outside.

I nailed 2"x4"x12" studs horizontally to the wall studs, on the inside rear & side walls, to hold rakes/shovels/sledgehammer/power lawn edger/etc.

Don't forget to install a vent/grill to each gable at the top - the ventilation will keep the shed contents in manageable condition. (I have motorcycles, lawnmowers, snow blowers, ladders, a generator,etc, etc, in mine w/o issue)

The whole project took me 6 partial (after work) days - but YMMV considerably.


.

Yes you can build it to big....... good advice here about checking with the tax man first about size, I know in my area once a out building or shed gets to a certain size they will start taxing you on it.

A friend of mine built a 8X16 shed about the time he was finishing it the tax assessor stopped by and told him his taxes were going to go up $750 a year with the new building. :shock:

Well that's when he cut the shed in half slide the two halves apart built a 4X8 deck between them and the tax man couldn't charge him a dime for his two sheds. :lol:

 

[6gun]

I would do a concrete slab for sure

Consider steel studs for the framing: no rotting, no bugs, no termites, no moisture, no warping issues

Roof and side walls your choice

Run electricity to it as well

Concrete slab is the best but in some areas depending on local code that could be consider a permanent building with higher taxes, I had to build mine with wood floor on pier blocks so it was considered movable.

Steel studs are a good idea but they can end up rusting out sitting on concrete on exterior walls, I've seen happen on commercial buildings.

 

[powder smoke]

Steel studs lol to hard to work if you are not familar with them. A 20 ga.would be needed.28 or 25 ga
will not cut the mustard. Chop would be required to cut them, Not a good option imo.
Self drilling screws will be a must, Attaching a roof system PIA with structural issues.
2x4s easy cheaper use a nail gun bingo.

Buildings have been built for centuries with nails the hold and are convenient and priced
right in comparison to screws. Not saying screws are bad just time consuming and added expense.
I believe the OP said he was on a budget.

Concrete slab would be a good idea if you are sure it is permanent. Make sure you remove all organic
material and have a gravel base. Concrete is about 90 a cubic yd. in these parts, ymmv.
Don't forget anchor bolts! Keep it simple. ps

 

[willk]

First, determine how big you wan't the shed, then make it bigger. I built a 12x16 thinking that it would be fine for my needs... Wrong, I wish I made it larger. :shock: :lol:

AMEN

If you think a 12 x 12 will be big enough, you will soon find that a 24 x 24 is almost just right. Wished I had made my shop 30 x 30 or better yet 48 x 30 with a 16 foot height. (Brenda would have killed me but I could work on the boats)

 

[Busterswoodshop]

Reminded me of another shed thread from some time ago. Don't do it like this one.

http://cheezburger.com/65285

That's pretty bad.
If America was a shed that is what it would look like after obahma was done with it.

 

[donut757]

thank you all for the replies and insight.

I will be putting it on 4x4x12's... Not a fixed building and no need for permit.


I was able to find about half a box of nail for the nail gun so i will use those until gone and go from there.

What im having hard time now is determining pitch of the roof.

Shed will be 12x12 and 8ft walls... thinking about 5/6-1 roof.

 

[Busterswoodshop]

The roof pitch is just a personal preference.
You can go as low as 1/4 inch per foot up to pretty much any pitch you want.
If you have snow then you would want enough pitch to keep the snow off.
I like at least a 4/12 pitch myself. ( 4 inch drop per foot ) but I don't have to worry about snow.

 

[SAJohn]

I built my first shed with a 45 deg roof. I had to use a safety rope while doing the shingle work. The second one had a 30 deg slope, no problems.

A top quality, large capacity tool belt is essential.

 

[Dan in MI]

Personally I'd go gambrel for a little more storage.

 

[donut757]

Personally I'd go gambrel for a little more storage.

I thought about that, but i will have 6.5'x 5' high double doors on the fromt and 1 side so cant really go that route unless i make it super tall

 

[rugerguy211]

I built this one 20-22 years ago. This pic was taken in '07, just before we sold that house. From the street it still looks the same today, but may be in need of paint. I don't know for sure.
T111 siding. Two doors, total 48" opening. Ventilation is provided by the 2 windows, ridge and gable end vents. The walls are 8' tall, so added storage was gained by building a "shelf" above the windows. The shelf goes front to back, 3' deep and the full 8' width (front to back) of the shed, and is at 6' height. I was limited to 8'x12' by zoning laws (over 100 sq ft = tax assessment).
Pressure treated 2x4 bottom (sill) plates, 2x8 floor joists, and exterior trim. Tongue and grooved 3/4" plywood flooring. The rest is standard lumber. Concrete blocks were used to keep everything off the ground, then the whole structure is sitting on a pressure treated frame of 4x6's, on the blocks.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1cbj1qwgd6ml37g/shed.jpg?dl=0

 

[sebtool]

Back in the late '60's or very early '70's my Dad built a small shed out back of our house, probably 12'x16' or so, and it's still standing and functional. As the ground was sloped a bit, he/we set cedar poles for the corners, and framed the floor joists level with rough cut oak. Framing was oak as well, roof was cedar shingles. The siding was accomplished using heavy roofing felt, and covered with vertical cedar slabs from the local sawmill. The slabs were fit to make the best use of the irregular widths with minimal gaps. The siding was run down to ground level the hole way around, and provided additional storage underneath, as well as a dog house on 1 side. Virtually maintenance free.

Being a cabinet maker, 'good' lumber storage/drying rack was across the 'ceiling' joists, which were just the tie rails for the rafters and ridgepole. Access doors were made using the same vertical cedar slabs, with sections cut out and made solid with batten boards across the back. You had to look closely to see the doors, but they were easy to remove and replace. The only hardware needed was a set of eye hooks on the bottom and/or top of each access panel, depending on it's location. IIRC, you could just about remove 1/2 of 1 whole end wall to get larger items out by removing a couple of panels/doors.

In fact, if I get that far on my 'honey do' list this summer, I'm planning on building a dog house using the same concept, but will probably use all cedar from a local sawmill. They'll practically give you the slabs, so they don't have to deal with them. FIL down in western KY got a flatbed truck load of 12' cherry slabs for firewood awhile back for $15.... And it was a FULL load!