Have downloaded the disassembly and assembly videos from Ruger. I can get it back together but once done the cylinder will not rotate with the gate open unless I pull back slightly on the hammer. The hammer will not cock all the way. What am I missing?? The pistol also will not fire.
Blackhawk reassembly problem
- Thread starter boaman81
- Start date
bedrockfred
Blackhawk
New model? The little leg under the loading gate jumped out of place? Push down and under with small screw driver. Remove cyl. first. ----bedrockfred
Take the cylinder out.
Re install the base pin.
Try and cock.
1st thing to check is the cylinder latch working properly, I suspect the spring plunger is off to the side.
2nd what is the pawl doing? Did you get the pawl spring and plunger assembly in right? Plunger in first followed by spring then grip frame.
3rd Is the trigger return spring correct?
Report back you observations.
Re install the base pin.
Try and cock.
1st thing to check is the cylinder latch working properly, I suspect the spring plunger is off to the side.
2nd what is the pawl doing? Did you get the pawl spring and plunger assembly in right? Plunger in first followed by spring then grip frame.
3rd Is the trigger return spring correct?
Report back you observations.
bedrockfred
Blackhawk
No problem, just find a super blackhawk frame! --bedrockfred, happy to help.
drew76
Bearcat
bedrockfred said:
I had this problem with my BH 45 Colt. Kept popping out EVERY time I would reassemble it. Had to bend the 'leg' with a pair of needle nose pliers and it fixed the problem for good.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
boaman81 said:
Much easier if you find a used one; it's already fitted and blued. Or if stainless already fitted. Just screw it on. all the existing hardware in the 41 grip frame will swap over. Of course you'll need SBH grips as well. If you want a perfect fit, buy a new one and expect to spend a couple of hours filing and sanding or pay a smith to fit it.
One caution, get a similar vintage GF to your gun:
There are grip frame ear changes to be aware of: the ear height (see photo) around the base of the hammer varies on all grip frame ears slightly due to hand fitting at the factory, but there was one specific big increase. To simplify production in 1997, Ruger increased the height of the standard cylinder frame mating surfaces on both sides of the hammer 1/16” to match the Bisley model frame ears so any style grip frame could be assembled to any main frame. Therefore the ears on all other standard grip frames after 1997 had to be made ~ 1/16” taller as well. So there's basically two sizes: as short as .530” pre 1997 and as tall as .590” after 1997 (for example: Original Vaqueros over serial range 56-XXXXX). Measure from the very top edge of the grip panel to the top of the ears. That's why swaps are simplified if any acquired grip frame matches the vintage of your Ruger that you want to put it on. This also affects the hammer base fit to the grip frame ears.
The grip frame ‘ears’:
Raised main frame surface:
Photo by medicdave
Ears & Hammer Base sizes: Ruger has only enlarged the hammer base to match the taller grip frame ears on the newly designed hammers introduced since 2005 such as the New Vaq standard ‘long horn’ and Montado hammers, the NM Flat Top Blackhawk hammers, and the new .327 Single Seven hammers. All other hammers designed prior to 2005 used on current model and Old Model guns are small base and do not match the post 1997 tall eared grip frames. Some people don’t mind. If I install a small base hammer in a post 1997 gun, I fit the grip frame ears to the hammer. I also have to do this every time I install post 1997 grip frame such as the N Vaq and Flat Top XR3 size steel grip frames or XRE-RED size steel grip frames on pre 1997 New Models or on Old Model Rugers..
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