New GP100 owner with reassembly problem

[Larsman]

Hello members. I am an enthusiast with 40 years of amateur firearms experience that took my brand new GP100 apart and now have trigger cycling issues. I ended up taking the trigger group apart after the troubles started to try and rebuild from scratch to no avail. I have lost no parts miraculously but have torn down and reassembled the gun 3 times without joy as the problem persists:

Trigger with not pull hammer back far enough for double action. When the hammer is drawn back single action, it stops where the double action stops without locking back. It’s like the trigger only pulls back 3/4 its normal travel. But only after I install the trigger group in the frame. When the trigger group is removed and loose, the trigger pulls all the way back against the guard like it should. When assembled, the cylinder turns and locks as it should with every trigger pull despite the trigger not traveling all the way back.

I have watched numerous videos and read many old posts and have tried all manor of suggestions only to end up with the original problem once everything is reassembled again. I know I can send it to Ruger and/or take it to a gunsmith but keep thinking there is something stupid I missed and keep trying for that Ah-ha moment. Are there any wise people out there that can explain what has gone wrong here? Please help a thank you!

 

[hittman]

Call Ruger.
Send it back.
They’ll likely bail you out for free.

 

[RC44Mag]

Did you try walking away from it for a while? Sometimes when that happens to me I start getting frustrated and end up in a vicious circle of trying everything I've done previous with the same non result's.
Taking a break, cool off and staring again a couple hours or next day quite often is the key to getting it fixed. Works for me hopefully you. Let us know how you made out either way. Good luck
If that doesn’t work, hittmans answer will

 

[hittman]

Yeah, I remember once trying to change the forearm furniture on a MAK-90. I’d probably done 20 of them over the years. Suddenly, this one was kicking my butt. I finally laid it aside for a few days. Upon return …. It went together in about 5 minutes.

Never did figure out what I’d been doing wrong earlier. Doesn’t matter so I let it go.

 

[RoninPA]

Just a quick thought, is the mainspring assembly in correctly? If not the mainspring strut could be binding on the frame.

 

[Larsman]

Thanks all. Yes, I tried walking away several times these past couple days. I’ve been taking it in stride and adding multiple shots of patience. The mainspring strut has been tried both ways multiple times just in case but the problem manifests itself before reinstallation of the strut. As soon as the trigger group is placed back in the frame it starts happening. I took the gun completely apart x5 now and rebuilt the trigger group, reinstall, same problem. Oh well, thanks anyway everyone. I should have just cleaned the gun my old fashioned way. The manual made it seem like an easy no brainier so I figured I’d try dropping the trigger group this time. Never again.

 

[hittman]

…. rebuilt the trigger group,

What actions were taken or tasks done for this rebuild?

 

[Larsman]

No action other than disassembling the individual pieces and reinstalling. I did this initially to rule out any missing parts since the problem started after dropping the trigger group, lubricating, and reinstalling the trigger group for the first time yesterday. I was afraid something popped out so I was simply inventorying all the pieces in the group. I have done similar tear downs on various semi autos but never on a revolver. All the parts are there and I followed different reassembly videos each time I retried.

 

[Larsman]

I apologize if “rebuild” has other meanings. “Put back together” is what i meant

 

[planetcat]

I did something similar with my lcr. Sent it back to Ruger with many apologies and they took care of it for free. Found my limit on youtube gun smithing real quick. Lol.

 

[3manfan]

Edited

 

[XUSNORDIE]

Sounds like the transfer bar is not aligned in correct position when reinstalling the trigger assembly, in my opinion.

 

[protoolman]

Yes if I remember right make sure the transfer bar is back not forward as you get the lower frame up into position to latch. I don't have mine handy but xuusnordie sound like I remember it.

 

[3manfan]

Sounds like the OP most certainly DID watch some videos!

Oops! I see now in his last paragraph he wrote that he did & I missed it.
That's what I get for reading the post on my phone's tiny screen for a change instead of on my computer as usual. Disregard!

 

[Larsman]

Sounds like the transfer bar is not aligned in correct position when reinstalling the trigger assembly, in my opinion.

It wasn’t aligned right a couple of times while reinstalling the trigger group onto the frame initially but I’m getting really good at aligning the trigger bar now!

 

[Larsman]

Yes if I remember right make sure the transfer bar is back not forward as you get the lower frame up into position to latch. I don't have mine handy but xuusnordie sound like I remember it.

The trigger bar is resting as it should and raising up as I pull the trigger as it should…until the trigger reaches 3/4 to 4/5 of the way back where it stops abruptly. With or without the hammer and spring installed.

I will certainly let you guys know what happens with this GP reassembly once the mystery is solved and I appreciate all your inputs.

 

[arfmel]

Try cocking it with the muzzle vertical. Watch the transfer bar to see if it is hitting the bottom of the firing pin on its way into position when not held muzzle up. .

 

[XUSNORDIE]

The trigger bar is resting as it should and raising up as I pull the trigger as it should…until the trigger reaches 3/4 to 4/5 of the way back where it stops abruptly. With or without the hammer and spring installed.

I will certainly let you guys know what happens with this GP reassembly once the mystery is solved and I appreciate all your inputs.

What you describe as the problem sure does sound as the transfer bar as the root cause. Hard to say though without handling the piece and examing it. I recommend the GP to folks looking for a dependable revolver. Eventually most of them come back to me with this same common issue and the bar isn't in correct position. I'm curious as to what is causing your issue.

When assembled, the cylinder turns and locks as it should with every trigger pull despite the trigger not traveling all the way back.

Have you watched your cylinder rotate until it stops? Where is your cylinder latch when it stops? You said it turns and locks but the hammer won't go all the way back.....how is that possible? How many clicks do you hear when you pull your hammer back. On the second click your latch should be set in cylinder, the very next click (third) the hammer is fully cocked.

 

[Fox Mike]

Just wondering if the pawl plunger spring and plunger are inserted correctly. Might look OK but be bound up or not properly installed.

 

[Larsman]

Try cocking it with the muzzle vertical. Watch the transfer bar to see if it is hitting the bottom of the firing pin on its way into position when not held muzzle up. .

Thank you. Doing this made no difference. The transfer bar does move freely and travels up and covers half the firing pin before stopping.

 

[Larsman]

Just wondering if the pawl plunger spring and plunger are inserted correctly. Might look OK but be bound up or not properly installed.

Thank you. Pawl plunger and spring are good and have been removed and reinstalled 7 times now. I function check each sub assembly each time as I reassemble the trigger group. They all move in the same direction and snap back to the same places as demonstrated on all the videos over seen so far.

 

[Larsman]

What you describe as the problem sure does sound as the transfer bar as the root cause. Hard to say though without handling the piece and examing it. I recommend the GP to folks looking for a dependable revolver. Eventually most of them come back to me with this same common issue and the bar isn't in correct position. I'm curious as to what is causing your issue.


Have you watched your cylinder rotate until it stops? Where is your cylinder latch when it stops? You said it turns and locks but the hammer won't go all the way back.....how is that possible? How many clicks do you hear when you pull your hammer back. On the second click your latch should be set in cylinder, the very next click (third) the hammer is fully cocked.

Thank you for having me check that. I discovered (listening for the clicks) that the cylinder stops just shy of locking. No second click unless I tap the cylinder. It is probably locking from rotational inertia when I pull the trigger harder/faster than the slow test just performed. I’m going to try fiddling with the trigger plunger and see what happens.

 

[XUSNORDIE]

The trigger plunger? Or do you mean the cylinder latch plunger? The trigger link plunger if that’s what you mean won’t have anything to do with it. That just works with the latch spring and guard latch to lock the assembly into frame.

Did your cylinder latch spring and plunger fit with your latch spring and cylinder latch pivot fit in easily or forced?

 

[Larsman]

I’m going by the nomenclature in my Ruger manual. I’m talking about the trigger plunger (#42) within the trigger group.

I did have some difficulty closing the cylinder after the first assembly. I discovered the front latch after that. The cylinder popped right in all assemblies since.

 

[Bad Barlow]

I'm going by the nomenclature in my Ruger manual. I'm talking about the trigger plunger (#42) within the trigger group.

I did have some difficulty closing the cylinder after the first assembly. I discovered the front latch after that. The cylinder popped right in all assemblies since.

I had the same problem, it turned out to be the trigger plunger. It didn't have full travel, so the hammer wouldn't cock. I cleaned the hole with a drill bit of the ( perfect) correct size to get smooth travel, all good now!

 

[Thel]

Is it possible that the cylinder latch plunger got mixed up with the pawl plunger? They look the same but are different lengths.

 

[Larsman]

I don’t believe that could be possible in my case because I never had both cylinder and trigger assemblies disassembled at the same time. Thank you.

 

[XUSNORDIE]

 

[Larsman]

Hi All - I wanted to stick a fork in this saga so I’m reporting that i don’t have much to report. I took my GP100 to a reputable gunsmith and $65 later, it runs again.

He’s a fan of the Ruger model but admits that assembly line production has taken a toll on fitting and finishing these past few years. Anyhow, he said he “corrected the Double Action DCU and worked the pawl’s timing” as he believed it to be off. I’m no revolver mechanic so I’m happy it’s back and working.
Thanks for all the input you all!

 

[Bad Barlow]

Hi All - I wanted to stick a fork in this saga so I'm reporting that i don't have much to report. I took my GP100 to a reputable gunsmith and $65 later, it runs again.

He's a fan of the Ruger model but admits that assembly line production has taken a toll on fitting and finishing these past few years. Anyhow, he said he "corrected the Double Action DCU and worked the pawl's timing" as he believed it to be off. I'm no revolver mechanic so I'm happy it's back and working.
Thanks for all the input you all!

What's a "DCU"?