New GP100 owner with reassembly problem

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Just wondering if the pawl plunger spring and plunger are inserted correctly. Might look OK but be bound up or not properly installed.
Thank you. Pawl plunger and spring are good and have been removed and reinstalled 7 times now. I function check each sub assembly each time as I reassemble the trigger group. They all move in the same direction and snap back to the same places as demonstrated on all the videos over seen so far.
 
What you describe as the problem sure does sound as the transfer bar as the root cause. Hard to say though without handling the piece and examing it. I recommend the GP to folks looking for a dependable revolver. Eventually most of them come back to me with this same common issue and the bar isn't in correct position. I'm curious as to what is causing your issue.


Have you watched your cylinder rotate until it stops? Where is your cylinder latch when it stops? You said it turns and locks but the hammer won't go all the way back.....how is that possible? How many clicks do you hear when you pull your hammer back. On the second click your latch should be set in cylinder, the very next click (third) the hammer is fully cocked.
Thank you for having me check that. I discovered (listening for the clicks) that the cylinder stops just shy of locking. No second click unless I tap the cylinder. It is probably locking from rotational inertia when I pull the trigger harder/faster than the slow test just performed. I'm going to try fiddling with the trigger plunger and see what happens.
 
The trigger plunger? Or do you mean the cylinder latch plunger? The trigger link plunger if that's what you mean won't have anything to do with it. That just works with the latch spring and guard latch to lock the assembly into frame.

Did your cylinder latch spring and plunger fit with your latch spring and cylinder latch pivot fit in easily or forced?
 
I'm going by the nomenclature in my Ruger manual. I'm talking about the trigger plunger (#42) within the trigger group.

I did have some difficulty closing the cylinder after the first assembly. I discovered the front latch after that. The cylinder popped right in all assemblies since.
 
I'm going by the nomenclature in my Ruger manual. I'm talking about the trigger plunger (#42) within the trigger group.

I did have some difficulty closing the cylinder after the first assembly. I discovered the front latch after that. The cylinder popped right in all assemblies since.
I had the same problem, it turned out to be the trigger plunger. It didn't have full travel, so the hammer wouldn't cock. I cleaned the hole with a drill bit of the ( perfect) correct size to get smooth travel, all good now!
 
I don't believe that could be possible in my case because I never had both cylinder and trigger assemblies disassembled at the same time. Thank you.
 
Hi All - I wanted to stick a fork in this saga so I'm reporting that i don't have much to report. I took my GP100 to a reputable gunsmith and $65 later, it runs again.

He's a fan of the Ruger model but admits that assembly line production has taken a toll on fitting and finishing these past few years. Anyhow, he said he "corrected the Double Action DCU and worked the pawl's timing" as he believed it to be off. I'm no revolver mechanic so I'm happy it's back and working.
Thanks for all the input you all!
 
Hi All - I wanted to stick a fork in this saga so I'm reporting that i don't have much to report. I took my GP100 to a reputable gunsmith and $65 later, it runs again.

He's a fan of the Ruger model but admits that assembly line production has taken a toll on fitting and finishing these past few years. Anyhow, he said he "corrected the Double Action DCU and worked the pawl's timing" as he believed it to be off. I'm no revolver mechanic so I'm happy it's back and working.
Thanks for all the input you all!
What's a "DCU"?
 
Anyhow, he said he "corrected the Double Action DCU and worked the pawl's timing" as he believed it to be off

"He believed?"......he should have been able to tell you exactly what the issue was. Or it sounds like he simply removed the trigger assembly, put it back in correctly and charged you his book time/hourly rate.

What's a "DCU"?

I'm also at a loss for that terminology :unsure:

Last I heard it meant Desert Camo Uniforms......

Anyway, glad your GP100 is up and running.
 
Why would he "correct" dirt clean up? be easier to say he cleaned the assembly. However the OP stated he thoroughly cleaned/inspected each part when he took the assembly apart...

Maybe the smith is a comic/movie fan and prefers DCU over Marvel and has his own terminologies .....I don't know..... :unsure:
 
Why would he "correct" dirt clean up? be easier to say he cleaned the assembly. However the OP stated he thoroughly cleaned/inspected each part when he took the assembly apart...

Maybe the smith is a comic/movie fan and prefers DCU over Marvel and has his own terminologies .....I don't know..... :unsure:
I was just kidding, we could have a new, long, thread on what DCU could mean...
 
I have no idea what a DCU is. That is what was on the invoice but that could be a catch all descriptor. He said something about the indexing was off. This is a very old fashioned shop that's run by an elderly and trusted gunsmith (& son) in this area. I was just glad to get my .357 some immediate attention at a reasonable price! Mission accomplished and as I said in the beginning, this old farm hand won't be disassembling this GP100 again. Mammals learn.
 
That is what was on the invoice but that could be a catch all descriptor.
When I get my truck/car/ATV serviced and see something funky on the invoice........I ask.......I paid for it, I want to know.

That said, if I get something serviced or worked on I expect a full explanation of the work that needs to be done before I give the go ahead to do it.

this old farm hand won't be disassembling this GP100 again
A GP100 is no where near as complicated as tearing down farm equipment and fixing I would think.

Mammals learn
Mammals also get taken advantage of. Sometimes eaten by other mammals.

Just say'n
 
Update: The problem returned after a couple trips to the range. I noticed that the trigger guard kept separating from the frame once firing commenced which caused multiple issues of course. It may have been a rough frame hole where the trigger guard latch should seat. The latch is rounded but my revolver's latch hole was a rough V shape. I used a Dremel tool to round out the hole in the frame so the latch can lock in properly. Went to the range and fired 100 rounds without trigger guard separation. Single action and double action worked fine so I think that was finally it. I'll update here if i have any further related issues.
 
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