Blackhawk Flattop Grip Frame Screws: How Tight Is "Tight?"

[BrotherInArms]

I'm preparing to send the grip frame for my stainless steel Lipsey's Ruger Blackhawk Flattop .45 ACP off to member 41 Magnum for a pair of grip panels.

To that end I finally broke down and bought a good set of hollow-ground gunsmithing screwdrivers. Going by the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially where it comes to tools, doubly-especially when those tools are to be used on things that have a degree of visual aesthetics: I went with Brownell's fixed-handle starter set.

Went to test them on the grip frame screws. Tried one of the back ones. Felt about right. But I wasn't certain the blade was bottoming in the slot. "Ah, front screw's not buried as deep." Gently searched for the slot. Thought I found it. Turned. Felt nothing. Removed the screwdriver. Looked. Tried again. "Hmmm.... The blade must be in the slot. Why am I not feeling anything?"

Turned out the front screw was not tightened at all! Only one of the other four screws was very tight, and it almost felt cross-threaded, until I backed it out and screwed it back in a couple times.

So just how tight should these be? And should I apply a small dab of blue or purple Loctite to them?

For the record: I've wrenched on a lot of stuff over the years. I have a pretty good feel for fastener torque.

Lastly, on the subject of gunsmithing screwdrivers: The driver for those screws does not quite bottom-out in the slot. Darn close, though. These bits are supposed to be 0.040" thick, and my calliper says they're pretty close, if not right on. I suspect the 0.030" thick bit would be a bit loose in those screw slots.

Or am I over-thinking things, again?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[NikA]

Ruger used to apply a blue thread-locking compound to these at the factory; however, the most recent set they sent me had nylon locking inserts instead. If yours doesn't have either and hasn't been swapped, I'd guess someone on the assembly line missed a step.

I tend to overtighten things, and have not had a problem stripping the screws out. Since I don't fully disassemble the SA revolvers often, I err on the side of a bit tighter than snug. I have far more problems getting the grip frame to line up again after disassembly than I do with screws being too tight or too loose.

 

[Hondo44]

Lastly, on the subject of gunsmithing screwdrivers: The driver for those screws does not quite bottom-out in the slot. Darn close, though. These bits are supposed to be 0.040" thick, and my caliper says they're pretty close, if not right on. I suspect the 0.030" thick bit would be a bit loose in those screw slots.
Thanks,
Jim

I presume your new screwdrivers are hollow ground. If they fit in the slots snug, they're the right thickness. But if they don't bottom out in the slot, the hollow grind is not high enough on the blade tip. A typical issue. With a Dremel tool and correct radius grinding bit, extend the grind further up the blade tip, so the .040" thickness is higher up the blade.

 

[BrotherInArms]

I presume your new screwdrivers are hollow ground.

They are. Very nicely-made, too.

If they fit in the slots snug, they're the right thickness. But if they don't bottom out in the slot, the hollow grind is not high enough on the blade tip. A typical issue.

That's exactly what's happening. I took my calliper to the one and it only hits 0.040" at the very end. Just above that it's closer to 0.045".

It's actually kind of handy. Give the screwdriver a good push and the screws stick nicely to the end

With a Dremel tool and correct radius grinding bit, extend the grind further up the blade tip, so the .040" thickness is higher up the blade.

They actually include the proper radius grinding bit with the set, but, looking it it, I suspect the shank's too big to fit my Dremel tool. We'll see.

Thanks for the follow-up.

 

[Hondo44]

I presume your new screwdrivers are hollow ground.

They are. Very nicely-made, too.

If they fit in the slots snug, they're the right thickness. But if they don't bottom out in the slot, the hollow grind is not high enough on the blade tip. A typical issue.

That's exactly what's happening. I took my calliper to the one and it only hits 0.040" at the very end. Just above that it's closer to 0.045".

It's actually kind of handy. Give the screwdriver a good push and the screws stick nicely to the end

With a Dremel tool and correct radius grinding bit, extend the grind further up the blade tip, so the .040" thickness is higher up the blade.

They actually include the proper radius grinding bit with the set, but, looking it it, I suspect the shank's too big to fit my Dremel tool. We'll see.

Thanks for the follow-up.

But they will spread the edges of the screw slots for certain. Because all the force will be against the slot edges and not uniformly to the sides of the slot all the way to the bottom.

 

[BrotherInArms]

That's exactly what's happening. I took my calliper to the one and it only hits 0.040" at the very end. Just above that it's closer to 0.045".

It's actually kind of handy. Give the screwdriver a good push and the screws stick nicely to the end

But they will spread the edges of the screw slots for certain. Because all the force will be against the slot edges and not uniformly to the sides of the slot all the way to the bottom.

Good point, but it became moot.

In removing my grip frame earlier today I discovered that, while the 0.040" thick driver tip comes close to bottoming-out on the front grip frame screw, it doesn't come nearly that close on the other four. Luckily, none of the screws were very tight, so I was able to get them out without damaging anything. I've placed the 0.180" and 0.150" wide drivers in the the 0.030" thickness on-order, for re-assembly.

 

[BrotherInArms]

Ruger used to apply a blue thread-locking compound to these at the factory; however, the most recent set they sent me had nylon locking inserts instead. If yours doesn't have either ...

I'd missed it on the one screw I'd taken out, but, yup: They have nylon locking inserts in them.

 

[rugerguy]

Like 'Hondo' said above, the thickness of the 'hollow' needs to be the depth of the screw slot, NO taper, thats why in the shop we had so many,many different screw drivers, ,many the same size BUT ground to "fit" the make ,some like Browning, Colt, the slot depth is shallow, other like Ruger ,S&W they are deeper, if NOT the proper fit. you will distort, "booger", the screws............. if you want to "hold" onto the screws, then 'magnetize the tips, NOT force the slot onto a 'taper'..... 8) :roll: :wink:

and as for "how tight", snug them up, it is NOT torqueing down engine bolts .....8)

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

I have the Brownells MagTip Master Set . I also bought a couple extra bits that properly fit the Ruger BH and Vaquero grip frame screws and a short armorers MagTip handle. It stays with my gun cleaning kit and all screws are checked when cleaning my Cowboy Action guns. I cant remember the last time I had one loosen any at all.