Black hawk frame question

tascofeldman

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
51
City & State/Province
NE Texas
I just traded into a '75 model black hawk in 45 colt. The grip frame has some nicks and dings with some finish loss. How do I repair this? Though it may be cosmetic, I like my guns to look as well as they function. There is also some blueing fade with minor holster wear but that really doesn't concern me like the nicks in the grip frame. Also, there seems to be some minor looseness in the cylinder during lockup, should that be present or have I a problem? It's not much, just a little wiggle. Thanks for any advice y'all can give.
 
The fix for the steel parts is a reblue by a competent shop.
What to do with the aluminum parts is more problematic in that the only two options is to either re-coat them with "something" or polish them to a shiny silver color.
I wouldn't worry none about a Ruger SA that exhibits "just a little wiggle". The thing to be concerned with there is cylinder throat size.

DGW
 
recoat the grip from,with "something" like Brownhells Alumahyde OR Krylon engine paint flat black??? or about any other black paint, as you can always relpace it and do it again, as needed....some of the various paints and coatings you can "bake on' put in the oven a for a short time to help "cure" the finish...works for us......
Or as noted above, just polish off the finish and make it clean and shiny, "in the white"
 
Thanks, figured the cylinder slack was ok, it's a solid shooter. The frame problem is similar to a 10/22 I recently did. Went in the white on it, saw a pic of a black hawk done this way and liked the way it looked. Can always recoat it if I don't like it.
 
To remove all the old finish, oven cleaner works best and is the easiest, then final sand with fine grit paper like 1000 or finer to remove the least amount metal and maintain dimensions.

Ruger no longer anodizes the aluminum frames, they are powder coated. If you send to them a frame for refinish it will come back powder coated and look like new.

The only type of anodizing that will hold up is Type III or hard anodizing. The process is not suitable for the home anodizing because it takes special equipment that would be far too expensive for the hobbyist to acquire. There are several companies that will do gun parts. Here are two: http://techplate.com/firearms.htm http://www.usanodizing.com/services.htm

Moly-Resin: sprayed on and baked is tough and matches the blued steel best.

If you don't want to bake it on, Brownells Aluma Hyde II or DuraCoat are moderately good choices.

Dupli-Color High heat 1200 degrees ceramic paint gives good results but dull like the original finish.

At about $6 a can it is a fairly good substitute for the specialty paints at $20 a can. One thing about the ceramic infused paints such as this and Wheeler Cerama-Coat is that they only require a clean surface for application, (Wheeler Cerama Coat instructions state: "Blued or Parkerized steel and anodized aluminum can be coated as is. However, if any red rust, corrosion, or oxidation is present, it must be removed in order to assure proper adhesion of Cerama-Coat and to protect the substrate from further deterioration. Light surface rust can be removed using fine steel wool and a penetrating oil or solvent. Severely corroded surfaces should be stripped using a chemical stripper and/or a mechanical means such as a bead or sand blaster, a buffing or sanding wheel, or by hand sanding.")



Other products worth a look are:
Gun Kote
Norrell Moly-Resin
Cerakote


BTW: Paints have varying degrees of resistance to the various chemicals found in cleaning/ lubricating products. It best to limit (or avoid) exposure time to them. It would probably best to do a test piece and expose it to the products you use.
 
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OK, so, why not let a reputable local powder coating company powder coat the grip frame and be done with it?
 
Most powder shops that do high quality work are not interested in a single part job. If they would do it at all, the price would be pretty stupid. You need to find a shop that does hobby jobs for walk ups. Beware the quality might suffer.
 
I like to load my .45 Colt cal. shooters "hot" with 325 gr. bullets at 1200 fps or so. The lightweight cast aluminum grip frames are the first things to go! Brass or steel do wonders in helping in reducing the recoil. So do 7-1/2" barrels.

JMHO,

flatgate
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:D
 

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