action job?

1rebel

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
59
ok i got my birdshead vaquero coming to me
i have a bisley styled hammer on order
once i get em together and take the vaquero apart is there anything anyone knows of i can do to help insure a smooth trigger?
i know abt removing the the spring off one side of the pin in the gripframe to reduce pull a little but other than that?
just killing some time while i wait for my baby to come home
:D
thanks
1rebel
 
Did Ruger have your Bisley Hammer?

There are a bunch of things you can do to slick it up, First thing I would do is get the Shop Manual, You got alot of reading to do before you just dive in. JMHO

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That lift the leg thing off, "poor boys trigger job" well, , ,
... I like this Idea better.
I do the back legs a little closer to the middle body of the spring, about 50% closer than what is shown, then it does not interfere w/ the mainspring.
http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html
 
G2
no ruger called me back this morning and said they didnt have any in stock
i found one on the sasswire
thanks for links
the second one especially
i think im gonna do those two mods to my trigger spring
that will probably enough to give me the kind of trigger i want
thanks again
1rebel
 
When your removing the hump on the bisley hammer is a good time to clean everything up inside and polish, buff all surfaces. Don't forget the mainspring strut.
Have fun. Eric
 
Howdy

Believe it or not, installing a lighter hammer spring will help make the trigger pull lighter. This is because with a lighter spring, the hammer full cock notch bears down with less pressure against the top of the sear (the tip of the trigger that holds the hammer back). With less pressure against the sear, it has less friction to overcome as it slides out of the notch, and this results in a lighter trigger pull.

Another thing you can do is the 'poor man's trigger job'. Very simple. Make sure the gun is unloaded. Cock the hammer. Then, shove firmly against the hammer with your thumb, trying to force it forward, while very slowly pulling the trigger until the hammer falls. What this does is force the surfaces of the sear and the full cock notch together under great pressure because of the leverage involved. As the two surfaces slide past each other under pressure, minor roughness gets smoothed out. This is called marrying the surfaces together. It does not lighten the trigger pull per se, but it makes it smoother. Just perform this operation about three times, no more, you won't get any more benefit out of it after that. Don't try this with a Colt type lockwork, you may break something, Ruger parts are sturdier.

Regarding polishing the parts, go very carefully. First of all, it does no good to polish surfaces of parts that do not bear against anything. The part surfaces are just traveling through air. Only polish flat surfaces that bear against each other, like the sides of the hammer where they rotate against the frame. Be very careful doing this, you do not want to remove much metal. Do not use a file. Use a stone. Also, it is not necessary to polish parts to a mirror finish. Just lopping the tops off of the rough surfaces is all that is necessary. That way, you leave behind the 'valleys' that can then function as oil reservoirs.

DO NOT TOUCH THE FULL COCK NOTCH, SEAR SURFACE ENGAGEMENT. Leave it alone unless you know exactly what you are doing and have worked on triggers before. It only takes a few strokes of a file to make the gun dangerous.

Personally, I don't hold with that business of disengaging one leg of the trigger spring. I never do it on any of my Rugers. The spring is designed to press the trigger forward evenly, not thrusting to one side. If you want, you can buy a lighter after market trigger spring, or slightly bend the stock one.
 
Personally, I don't hold with that business of disengaging one leg of the trigger spring. I never do it on any of my Rugers. The spring is designed to press the trigger forward evenly, not thrusting to one side. If you want, you can buy a lighter after market trigger spring, or slightly bend the stock one
Well, personally :) , I've done this with all my Ruger revolvers and have not noticed any side affects (pun intended).... other than what I expected.... Granted I haven't wore out any of my guns yet.... so don't know the 'looooong' term affects ;) . And you have a spare leg if the other one breaks :P . Works well for me. YMMV.....
 
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I've taken both legs of the spring off on one gun, and it still worked fine.

I've since taken to the method of bending the legs. I didn't like the loose leg flopping around in there, maybe getting caught up on the mainspring.

-- Sam
 
I did the trigger spring mod from here...
http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html
It worked well on both my Super Blackhawk and Single Six.
I also polished mating surfaces as noted above. I'm not very keen on the hammer push method, but it does work. Instead I lightly stoned the trigger/sear surfaces-just enough to polish. Trigger pulls are light and crisp now, almost rivals the SA pull of my 686.
I don't know if it applies to the Vaquero, but if the cylinder doesn't index to latch for ejection, you can do this if you're brave....
http://marauder.homestead.com/files/FreeSpin.html
I did it to both and it worked perfectly.
I learned tuning my 1911's, but the same rules apply-go slow and test as you go.
Good luck with your customization!
 
when I put the dragoon gripframes on all four of my vaqueros I put the surfaces of all parts (except for sear mating surfaces) on an Arkansas Hard stone. did the poor mans trigger job with the return spring legs. did the dragoon grip frames and superblackhawk hammers.

Like anything else that is custom to you, I like mine. some will not. But they are my vaqs, no one elses.
 
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