I only own double action revolvers at this point. I would love a .22 single action, and have some questions. I found an old blued single six at a pawn shop. It is a 3 screw. The ejector housing and under side of the grip frame have some wear and appear to be made of cast iron. Is this the case? It looks like super shiny metal- not metal that would be blued. It almost looks like paint has worn off. Anyway... It has the old model sights. I think this means it is a flat top? Is 250.00 too much to pay for this revolver? I do want to shoot it, I just don't like the look of the "cheap metal." Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
3 Screw Single Six question
- Thread starter jmelcock
- Start date
Hondo44
Hawkeye
Those two parts are cast alminum alloy that was originally anodized black. $250 ain't a bad price for a mechanically sound old model Ruger. I would get it. Make sure the 3 notches on the hammer are not broken by gently pushing to make sure the hammer won't slip off.
Did you get a serial number, we can tell you approximately how old it is and which size grip frame it has; early or late. What length barrel from muzzle to front of the cylinder? The short 4 5/8" barrels are a little scarce and very desirable. Does it come with both 22 LR and 22 Mag cylinders? If only one, make sure which 22 it chambers. If only 22 Mag it can be costly to shoot.
Many buyers polish out the aluminum when worn. Others recoat with sprays or bake on products. Some change the parts to newer all steel parts. And yet others just enjoy shooting them as is and not have to worry about new wear showing on them.
REMEMBER IT'S ONLY SAFE TO CARRY LOADED WITH 5 ROUNDS AND AN EMPTY CHAMBER UNDER THE HAMMER.
Old worn guns make for great projects like this shortened gun (barrel and butt) like the one you saw with steel parts added:
Or lengthened at both ends:
Or an alloy frame with the whole gun polished:
Did you get a serial number, we can tell you approximately how old it is and which size grip frame it has; early or late. What length barrel from muzzle to front of the cylinder? The short 4 5/8" barrels are a little scarce and very desirable. Does it come with both 22 LR and 22 Mag cylinders? If only one, make sure which 22 it chambers. If only 22 Mag it can be costly to shoot.
Many buyers polish out the aluminum when worn. Others recoat with sprays or bake on products. Some change the parts to newer all steel parts. And yet others just enjoy shooting them as is and not have to worry about new wear showing on them.
REMEMBER IT'S ONLY SAFE TO CARRY LOADED WITH 5 ROUNDS AND AN EMPTY CHAMBER UNDER THE HAMMER.
Old worn guns make for great projects like this shortened gun (barrel and butt) like the one you saw with steel parts added:
Or lengthened at both ends:
Or an alloy frame with the whole gun polished:
flatgate
Hawkeye
jmelcock said:
Some folks follow that line of thinking, however, we die hard collectors use the Flattop terminology when referring to the centerfire revolvers which have a flat top strap and the fully adjustable rear sight is set flush within the top strap.
I believe this image will suffice.........
flatgate
contender
Ruger Guru
All good info except a strong; "Go buy the darn thing, and replace the ERH if it's too shiny for you!" A very fair deal for a good shooter.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
flatgate said:
Yes, we die hards do. And referring to the OM .22s with windage-adjustable-only dovetail rear blade gets murkier when one considers they made a few New Models like that. And then again, otherwise they are flat on top. But definately can't refer to an OM Super SS as a flat top.
However, when and if I get my hands on a beater OM Super, it'll be a true flattop with Micro sight and short barrel when I get done with it!
americal
Hunter
BUY that RSS :!: But like was said :arrow: make sure it has the 22 long rifle cylinder in it 
There you go Hondo posting that little short barrel RSS :lol: makes me hyper when I see it 
those sights are neat never thought that combo would work :!: but I sure like it-----
There you go Hondo posting that little short barrel RSS :lol: makes me hyper when I see it those sights are neat never thought that combo would work :!: but I sure like it-----
Hondo44
Hawkeye
americal said:BUY that RSS :!: But like was said :arrow: make sure it has the 22 long rifle cylinder in it
americal,
Thank you, I've grown more and more fond of it. My buddy says it just begs to be picked up and held. Did I mention that it only has the 22 Mag cylinder? I find myself wanting to shoot it more so I'm shopping for a LR cylinder for it.
americal
Hunter
I would to
Hugh
Buckeye
jmelcock said:
Here are two 3-screw Single Six .22 Cal. To me they are both worth $250 each. They both have a degree of character. Which of these two most resembles the Single Six you are considering? The one on the right was shipped as a Super Single Six, but only has the .22 LR cylinder, and there is no other real difference.
Your answer might help others to provide advice to you.
The Revolver that I am looking at most resembles the one on the left. Exactly actually...Except it has these white faux pearl grips. it has a 5 1/2" barrel. I still have not taken the plunge. Still thinking on it.
Hugh
Buckeye
jmelcock said:
Of my three Single Six .22's the one on the left is my favorite.
Glupy
Blackhawk
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Why wait?
Buy the darn thing and enjoy it. They can be resold easily. You can get something else if you aren't happy.
Dave,
proud owner of a 1961 RSSM
Buy the darn thing and enjoy it. They can be resold easily. You can get something else if you aren't happy.
Dave,
proud owner of a 1961 RSSM
I would buy it! Heck it is worth that much as parts if it does not have a safety Conversion Kit in it. J/S....
Chukar hunter
Bearcat
I'd buy it right now for $250. In my part of the country you can hardly find one (new or old model) for under $350. I loved the shortened barreled critter with the adjustable sights on it! Very nice
I decided to layaway it. It still will only run 275.00. Thats with a background and taxes. This way I can get what I want, and still hide it from the wife! I know people joke about that, but i'm serious. After I have it, and without the wife noticing any change to the finances, I come clean. THE perfect plan!!!
Hugh
Buckeye
jmelcock said:
Well, I'm not so sure I'd follow that plan. Never hid a gun or other purchase from my wife. If it's anything like mine though, it's a good buy.
davidh5000
Bearcat
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2009
- Messages
- 24
If you have to hide it trust me it's not worth it. THAT HELPED ME GET AN EX-WIFE AND A SMALLER GUN COLLECTION!!!
Great advice! I think I should have worded that differently. It's not as much hiding it as it is spreading out the purchase. My wife is fine with my gun buying, and I will tell her about the purchase as soon as I have the gun. It would be a different story if I made an impulse buy one afternoon and said nothing! Anyway, I get too excited about the ones that I do purchase to keep it from her. I like to share.
So... I picked up the single six today. My first single action. From the Ruger sight it shows that it was manufactured in 1970. It ended up running $276.83 out the door. A little more because of the layaway. Anyway, I am glad I picked it up. I really like it. I do have some questions before I post a foto. Is there a difference in length between .22 and .22 mag cylinders. Logic would say that there is, but I don't know. Also, how do I know if it has had the safety conversion? Oh yeah, I told the wife too! it's all good. Thanks
Hondo44
Hawkeye
jmelcock said:
Very cool. The 22 frame and LR cylinder are longer than needed for the 22 Mag. cartrdige. Therefor, no difference in cylinder length, otherwise you wouldn'b able to swap them. However, cylinders from gun to gun can vary .001"-.002". Your chances of finding a Mag cylinder that fits your gun are much greater if you find one about the same vintage. You can tell because it will be fluted just like your LR cyl. Later ones are smooth/non-fluted.
If you find one too large to fit, you or a gunsmith can fit it to your gun. Too large is better than one that goes in but has front to rear movement. If you find one that goes in with very slight minimum movement your good to go. Some shooters will want perfect fit but it's truly not an absolute requirement. You will be surprised at the accuracy of the gun.
If it's been converted, cock the hammer and you will see the safety transfer bar that sandwiches between the firing pin mounted in the frame and the hammer nose. If it does it have one it can be converted back just be changing out parts by replacing them with original parts that can be found used and on this forum.
Either way, a lighter hammer spring will vastly improve the trigger pull and anyone's ability to shoot it more accurately. You can cut 4 coils off of it or buy after market lighter springs like Wolff.
Many of these never got cleaned because they just keep on shooting. You've probably cleaned it already but check the barrel for leading.
Enjoy!!
Thank you! There is not a transfer bar. So, no smithing required to return it to original. The next question I have concerns a previous post in this same topic. Someone mentioned that some use spray on finishes. I have a friend that does teflon and duracoat. Is this a no no for the grip frame on my revolver?
Hondo44
Hawkeye
jmelcock said:
There's not really any no-nos. It's an issue of durability of what will stay on the aluminum alloy grip frame. Originally they were anaodized black. And it shows wear prematurely. Most spray ons won't last even that long and therefore not very satisfactory. My solutions have been: do nothing, polsih out completely, have re-anodized (Ruger will not do it) or replace with stainless steel or blued steel parts.
Here's a Lightweight Model (Alloy main frame as well as grip frame) that had lotsa' wear. I gave it a full poish.
Here's a gun like yours with a blued steel grip frame installed.
Here's an early 357 showing wear on alloy grip frame:
And after converting to 44 Spl with a stainless steel grip frame installed.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
Start with 320 grit paper and a small flat sided sanding block, 1" by 2 " by 1/4" or something in that size range. Mine is a piece of aluminum. The critical thing is to keep flat surfaces flat!
Switch to a soft eraser sanding block for the curved areas; trigger guard and back straps. Get all the remaining black anodizing off, then progress to 600 grit to get all the 320 scratches out. Then finish up with 1000 grit. Use 2000 grit on the flat surfaces to bring it to a shine with a well used piece of 2000 grit paper and the hard sanding block.
If you are familiar with and have a buffing wheel, you can now use it on the curved surfaces with white rouge (for stainless steel). If not, use the eraser and well used piece of 2000 grit on the curved surfaces. Do not buff the flat surfaces or the corners will round off and look like an amateur worked on it. Follow up with any metal polish like Brasso, Flitz or Semichrome if you want it real shiny.
Switch to a soft eraser sanding block for the curved areas; trigger guard and back straps. Get all the remaining black anodizing off, then progress to 600 grit to get all the 320 scratches out. Then finish up with 1000 grit. Use 2000 grit on the flat surfaces to bring it to a shine with a well used piece of 2000 grit paper and the hard sanding block.
If you are familiar with and have a buffing wheel, you can now use it on the curved surfaces with white rouge (for stainless steel). If not, use the eraser and well used piece of 2000 grit on the curved surfaces. Do not buff the flat surfaces or the corners will round off and look like an amateur worked on it. Follow up with any metal polish like Brasso, Flitz or Semichrome if you want it real shiny.
Walter Rego
Single-Sixer
You might want to check with Ruger regarding the refinish. About 3 years ago I had them refinish a grip frame and ejector rod housing that were badly worn. The charge was $35 and I did not do any prep work beforehand. The bad news is that it was not anodized as was the original, but was done with their current finish which looks like some kind of powder coat. Still it looks better than a polished out and in the white aluminum part and for $35 was better than me trying a can of Brownells Alumahyde and a toaster oven to do it.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
Walter Rego said:
Hi Walter,
Thanks for the update. How has the Ruger 'powder coat' re-finish lasted compared to the orginal anodizing?
Thanks,
Walter Rego
Single-Sixer
The Ruger powder coat refinish still looks fine but the gun does not get carried, it only gets occasional range time. I bought the gun inexpensively as a project. It was missing the .22 LR cylinder and had a set of Jay Scott fake stags on it with a big chip missing from the toe. There was just a little muzzle wear but the grip frame was worn to a smooth gray on the front and rear straps, like the previous owner either had very rough skin or acidic sweat. I had Ruger fit a new .22LR cylinder and refinish the aluminum parts and put the original action parts back in it after they sent it back converted.
I kind of liked the "fake stag" look for some odd reason and bought a set of polymer fake stags on ebay which actually feel very good as they are thicker than the factory wood stocks or the flat Jay Scott stocks were before I tossed them in the trash. Here's how it turned out.
I kind of liked the "fake stag" look for some odd reason and bought a set of polymer fake stags on ebay which actually feel very good as they are thicker than the factory wood stocks or the flat Jay Scott stocks were before I tossed them in the trash. Here's how it turned out.
JWhitmore44
Blackhawk
Hondo44 said:Here's a gun like yours with a blued steel grip frame installed.
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Did you eve post your build on this one? What a neat little single six.
sorry for the hi-jack
