Recent content by Rob72

Quickest, easiest way to go about it. Be sure to wear glasses & gloves, this stuff is potent. It removes Dura Coat and Gun Kote with ease. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Strip-Premium-Paint-Stripper/17208799 Spray on, let sit for ~ 5 minutes and wipe off. May need an extra pass or two, if...

Generally what 41 alluded to- someone has 9mm autos, and has the revolver itch. Some people find revos less intimidating, and so want one rather than the "other's" auto. I've used and worked on products from all major manufacturers. My defensive arms are autos, but occasionally, I will drop a...

If you actually contacted them, I'd guess you'd be into a "basic" Gemini for $250-350. I get what you're saying, but I will also note that no one wants to pay for real gunsmithing (~$35-45/hour, plus a basic shop fee). It takes me about 4 hours to turn out a nice SP, polished, squared...

It looks to be TiNitride. If so, you'll probably be long gone before the finish wears through, unless you use your revolver as a boat anchor or belay-point. :)

I would *suggest* the .357, as you can carry speed strips for reload much easier than full moon clips. Some will say, "If 5 don't do it...!" Being at a scene, separated from your vehicle, and not having a full cylinder/mag to get there, with a BG who is definitely not down after you've thrown...

Unless you're shooting something unusual (Hirtenberger subgun ammo, for instance) the EFK and Sprinco are over priced and unnecessary. If your shooting is REALLY good and fast, one of them might gain you a touch in recovery, but for most folks, its placebo. I prefer stainless to poly or...

Melonite finishes are external and internal, as no electrode is needed for deposition. IIRC, Tenifer uses arsenic in processing. Melonite is EPA-friendly. No similarity, at all, in application to Lauer's Dura-Coat, Ceracoat, etc..

I would agree. Have someone watch you from the side. If your muzzle has much notable rise, your wrists aren't locked. It isn't a matter of being "tight", as much as locking your wrists in-line with your forearm through the recoil pulse. Bullet weight should make no difference. The CUP...

Yes. It will even tell you to what degree it is self-adjusting. :wink:

Pretty much. Anymore, I consider it foolish not to do a detail strip, clean and do basic action work on anything new. :roll:

Hi, cindylou, Before going further- do you have the option of going to a range that has rentals, before you decide? If you have a friend or relative who isn't of the "yahoo!" sort, and explains things well (i.e, listens to you and gives relevant feedback), that would be a really good...

Ted, I've always enjoyed The Bianchi Lightening for my (self-cut) bobbed SPs and J frames. Ross Gunleather makes their version, which may be slightly more available and slightly cheaper. BladeTech makes a nice IWB holster for the 3" that can be cut down, if needed.

Acceptable design, crappy execution. I don't believe that any modern manufacturer has real smiths on-staff any more. "Repair" usually entails slapping something against a wire wheel, or plugging in a (-) spec or (+) spec part. Ok, having said that, unless someone put really light springs in...

If you get a Hogue nylon monogrip, you can cut it off, about 1/8" below the last finger-groove. Drill and tap the bottom of your frame for a 10-32 bolt. Get a Pro-Bed (Midway) or Acra-glass (Brownells) kit, follow the instructions and pack the saw-hole with epoxy, then sand to fit. Very, very...

Shavings or leavings in the firing pin channel may give light-strikes; a "too thick" transfer bar delivers more (all) enegy to the FP. If the bar is genuinely oversized, you will see a gap between the hammer and the frame with the trigger held back during a dry fire. The hammer would then...