Reloading .38 special questions

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Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
374
Location
N. Pole Idaho
I purchase 22, 9mm, 45ACP, 223 by the case for plinking fodder. I find it's not worth my time to load these. Where I find I save a fortune, and I never have availability problems, is with large caliber hunting type loads from 41 mag on up into .510. You can easily pay $2.50-$$4.00 Per round for .500LB, 475LB, 50-110, 50AK,.480Ruger etc, and that's IF you can find any available.

I make my own hunting ammo, including premium bullets or my own cast, powder coated gas checked bullets. This is where the savings comes in. BUT, constant Availability is worth any price to me. I will never run out of my preferred ammunition.
 

Skeet 028

Single-Sixer
Joined
Sep 3, 2011
Messages
171
Location
Northwest Wyoming
What at least has been said previously.. If you don't like reloading it turns into a chore...But with that said I reload...a lot. I reloaded shotshells for a business we had shooting pigeons. In 14 years I loaded an average of 50,000 shotshells easily. more... every year. Shooting pigeons was a business...not fun. Even after much more than a million rounds...reloading IS a chore but I still do it. I can afford to shoot what I want. I started a business in 1965 selling reloadng supplies and then guns. As far as reloading presses etc even after you pay for the equipment you really won't lose money.. It's not as cheap as it used to be these days but you will still save money . I shot trap till I grew up and shot skeet. The more you shoot seriously the better you will become competing. Reload... if's worth it
 

harley08

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 9, 2014
Messages
649
I reload most military calibers
I have 2 Dillon 550 reloading presses. I have all my dies set up for quick change with powder despencers attached. I reload all of my ammo for practice.
I only buy ammo for defense and have enough 22lr to last me a good while.
Dillon presses are the way to go.
Golcks are the best guns!
Rocko Rizzo
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Messages
9,821
Location
Woodbury, Tn
I started reloading in 2007, with a Lee hand loader(actually two hands lol) I loaded .357/.38 spcl. And .44 mag. One day at the local pawn shop I saw a Classic Lee single stage for $30. Bought it. I may shoot 200 rounds yearly, mostly .44 spcl(my woods tromping gun, Charter Bulldog). I shoot some .22 LR(less than 50/year), some .308(less than 20/year), some .223(around a hundred yearly). I have already loaded up some of my most used calibers. I noted that I wait til I need more than 100 before I reload again. My ammo is customized for me and my guns. I have enough components etc to keep me shooting til I die. I have bought powder/guns etc from estate sales. I have always saved my brass. While others buy silver and gold, I buy brass and lead. Buy it when you can get it at a good price. Good luck!!!
gramps
 

rotor

Single-Sixer
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Messages
101
Lee 6 pack pro is great, Lee classic turret is great, I like reloading 38 special and it is cheaper. One pound of powder pretty much loads 5,000 rounds or close to it. Have fun. Dillon presses are great.
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
7,139
Location
Richmond Texas USA
As a handloader since the 1970's,, I can say that the OP has asked an honest question, and been given a lot of excellent info.

But I want to address his initial comments about the cost savings,, and to quote him; "to spend possibly thousands on reloading equipment and supplies."
And he later says he's considering a Dillon SDB as a starter set-up. A SDB new price from Dillon is $630.00. it comes with (1) caliber set-up. (In the OP's case,, .38 Spl.) add to that the powder & primers,, as mentioned,, around $350.00 for powder & primers. Buying bullets,, will increase that expense, (from about .10 cents per bullet to upwards of .30 cents a bullet, depending upon what type & where he buys them,) and if he already has brass he'll be set up to just do .38 Spl.

By using those numbers,, yes,, the initial expense will exceed $1000. If you only loaded 50 rounds,, that'd be a very high expense for just 50 rounds. BUT,,,, if you loaded 1000 rounds,, (using the number of the primers mentioned, then the cost will be close to what 1000 rounds of factory ammo would have cost. Here's the point the savings kicks in. At 1000 rounds,, you've about broken even on the expense of setting up. But now,, you are out of primers, and lets say for the sake of discussion, just purchased 1000 bullets initially as well. Now buy another 1000 primers & bullets. What did that cost? Maybe $350-$400?? The powders most often used in .38 Spl if purchased in an 8 lb jug will load around 4000-7000 rounds,, so you will still have powder. Your second 1000 rounds will be much less than the first 1000 rounds.

Over time,, depending upon how much you shoot,, you will see the expense of the ammo settle in at around 1/2 the cost of factory ammo as an average figure. You can reduce that buy the way you buy components,, by watching for sales,, getting a good deal in various locations, etc. And if you were to find that you really enjoyed the hobby,, you could try casting bullets to make the bullet expense even lower.

And after all that,, you still have a great reloading machine that has value. A Dillon progressive retains good value,, while others,, maybe not as much. I learned long ago when it came to equipment that I was going to use a lot; "Buy once, buy quality, and you only cry once." Good quality can outlast our lives. I have a RCBS RockChucker press I bought used in 1980,, that is still a top quality press,, and I can easily sell it for a lot more than what I paid back then. The same goes for my Dillon presses. I have less in my 1st Dillon 650 with casefeed than the current cost of the new SDB. I know I could make money on the set-up.

Now the negatives.
The Dillon SDB is a great machine,, but uses Dillon only dies. As mentioned above,, the 550 or 750 etc can use standard dies. If you ever have any idea of reloading any other calibers,, this is a bigger deal, especially if you might load any rifle calibers. the SDB doesn't load any rifle ammo.
Another negative,, especially for a new reloader,, is the learning curve of a progressive (the Dillon) over a single stage. BUT,,, they you can begin on a Dillon,, and do quite well. if you read the manual, and especially if you have a friend who can mentor you in their use. A single stage press is much slower,, but it does allow a new loader to slowly learn the process, AND understand what is happening. Another good fact of a single stage,, is when you have a problem,, a single stage is an easier & quicker "fix." Just the other day,, as I was using my Dillon 650 and loading some 9mm ammo, I had a few little problems. I was loading 600 rounds of 9mm, and during that session, I had a couple of case that the primer didn't get knocked out completely. For me & my experience level,, it wasn't a big deal. But a new reloader may experience a lot more frustration over that.

Since the expense of loading seems to be the theme of the OP,, I would suggest a bit of careful & judicious shopping around. I have helped a few friends find & buy used Dillons for very good prices. In just the last year or so,, (4) SDB's all cost $300 each. And a couple of them came with extra caliber conversions. Then a 650 & a 750,, each sold for $750 with case feeds etc. (A member here got the 750.) The point is,, you can get top quality,, without paying retail. And yes,, Dillon still has their lifetime warranty,, even if you didn't buy it new.

But a Dillon is the best progressive machine available to the hobby market. And yes,, is does allow for much faster loading of any amount of ammo over a single stage press set-up. And if only loading (1) caliber,, in handgun calibers,, the SDB is a good one to use. Initial expense seems high,, but as mentioned,, you will recoup it the more you use it & keep it.
In looking at the current Dillon catalog,, a SDB costs $629.00. But if you add the stuff in the picture to "upgrade" it,, (the strong mount, the low powder sensor, the bullet tray kit, the tool holder & wrenches, and the case bin & bracket,) it lists for $948.00.
For a beginner,, those upgrade are NOT "necessary." If you want the bullet tray,, then the strong mount & the case bin & bracket are required. But if you mount the press to a bench,, (mine is) not necessary. In fact,, all the accessories except the low powder sensor require the use of the strong mount. And While I have (4) Dillons on my bench, as well as several caliber conversions,, NONE,, and I mean NONE have the low powder sensor.
At $629.00 plus shipping,, you can buy powder, primers & bullets,, & start loading once it's set-up & adjusted. Beyond that,, you will NEED at least (2) necessary items. A powder scale, and at least (1) good reloading manual, (better to get a couple of different manuals though.) I like to say that after 10,000 rounds of loaded ammo,, in general,, you have reached the point where the expense of the equipment has been met. Then the only expenses are the expendable components.

Having the equipment and enough components can allow you to shoot when others can't because ammo dries up, or components dry up.

I'll close this long-winded response with a statement made a few times above. You may not save money,, but you can shoot a lot more for the same money. But if you shoot the same amount as you currently do,, then yes,, you will shoot for less money.

Just like Contender's post which is no BS. Dillon's Warranty is NO BS. I have broken parts which were my fault along with wearing out parts. When I call Dillon they send a new part free even when I offer to pay because it was my fault.
As you can see I have a Rock chucker that was given to me. When I first started shooting a Lot in SASS it was just to slow. I now use it for 45-70, 30-06, and 30-30 which I don't shoot much of. The Lee was won in a SASS match and I use it to load 45 colts and 44-40 with BP. The Lee allows me to drop a double charge of BP to fill the case.
Over the last 20 years of reloading there is no way I could have been able to afford the amount of factory ammo that I have reloaded.
As far as the press it would be the Dillon XL750 with only the powder check hands down. Yea I know $859.00 is a bunch BUT you do not have to upgrade. And to make matters better you get their great magazine "The Blue Press" :)

Just about all hobbies are going out of sight $$$$$$$$$$$


A whole bunch of different calibers and loads here
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dannyd

Hunter
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
2,042
Location
Florida
I shoot 11,000 to 12,000 rounds a year could not do without my LNL's and before that 550B and SDB. Like the bushing system better than whole tools head.

It all what a person likes, I just see guy's buy expensive gear and then find out reloading is not for them. Then they sell if at a lost, so start small and work your way up. Started with a single stage on a small bench and worked my way up to a room with something on every wall, but it's may only Hobby or Religion so to speak. :)
 

any ruger

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
923
Location
Hibbing ,Minnesota U.S.A.
Have 3 spar t turret presses bought them all used. Have no idea of there age. Use them for pistols. I have a Rockchucker my Dad got me for Christmas lat 70' s or early 80's. Use the Rockchucker for rifle.
 
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
545
Location
Twin Cities, MN
Don't buy a 8 pounder at first because if you don't like the powder it hard to sell an open container sometimes.

Your in Florida think of Reloading as a Boat; you don't save anything you just shoot more and more and more. ;)

Very true words! 1lb of powder is 7000 grains, and at a nominal charge weight of about 3.5 grains per load in 38 Special, that's 2000 rounds worth. :) When you graduate to using a progressive and are making several thousand rounds in a run, then the 8lb kegs make more sense, especially at today's prices. But, if you find something on sale for a good price - get it! I have several 8lb kegs of Win231, Titegroup, Longshot, CFE Pistol etc that I bought on sale years ago and I'm still using. Ahhh, the good old days of sub $100 8lb kegs.


And whatever you do, don't have a boat and reload... One or the other! :D Ask me how I know... HAhaha!
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dannyd

Hunter
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
2,042
Location
Florida
Very true words! 1lb of powder is 7000 grains, and at a nominal charge weight of about 3.5 grains per load in 38 Special, that's 2000 rounds worth. :) When you graduate to using a progressive and are making several thousand rounds in a run, then the 8lb kegs make more sense, especially at today's prices. But, if you find something on sale for a good price - get it! I have several 8lb kegs of Win231, Titegroup, Longshot, CFE Pistol etc that I bought on sale years ago and I'm still using. Ahhh, the good old days of sub $100 8lb kegs.


And whatever you do, don't have a boat and reload... One or the other! :D Ask me how I know... HAhaha!View attachment 35301
Lived on the boat for 4 years and 9 months of my life, so I will definitely never own one. :)

Buying powder in large quantities is great if you know exactly what you want to use, but just starting out it could be a mistake.
 

Montana Cowboy

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
64
Location
Washington State
Save your worn-out brass and take it to a scrap yard. I had a 5-gallon pale of worn-out brass and Berdan primed cases that I took to a scrap yard and was amazed that I got almost $60 bucks for it. I used the money to buy reloading components.
 

David Lee Valdina

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
114
Location
Snow Bird, Florida & Massachusetts
If this was mentioned earlier, I didn't see it. Having the ability to reload is nice in the event everything shuts down for whatever reason. Existing ammo you don't need can be disassembled and the components used for the ammo you need. Food for thought.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Massa2shitz
I started reloading when I was 13 for my Dad's 44 carbine with a Lee Loader and a hammer. This was in 1970 and we were on a tight budget. When I got a Lyman 310 nut cracker tool I thought I was as technologically advanced as I could get. This is probably why I never moved on to a progressive press. Back to your question about 38 Special. I enjoy the old 38 and reload quite a bit for it. I use Speer lead semi wadcutter hollow points at 12 cents a piece, small pistol primers are 9 cents each and my 4.7 grains of Unique rounds out at about 2 cents. So my components total 23 cents per round. So it's not a huge monetary savings but what hobby is? As mentioned above it all depends on whether you enjoy the reloading process and how many rounds you plan to shoot.
 

Paul B

Hunter
Joined
Dec 4, 1999
Messages
2,153
Location
Tucson, AZ
When I first reloaded my ammo, one could realize some fantastic savings. I loaded my first rounds of any cartridge in the middle of 1954. Some old time gentlemen that were neighbors got me interested and I finally got parental approval to load my own ammo. Cartridges were the .38 Spl., 30-30 Win. and 30-06.

Currently, for the .38 Spl. I use W231 or for more powerful load Unique. Back then when I started I used Bullseye for the .38 Spl. and Unique as mentioned. Loading tool was the old Lyman 310 took knick named, "The Nutcracker." Slow, but it made good ammo within its limitations. About two years later I bought a Pacific reloading kit and used it in the early 1970 when I replaced it with the RCBS Rockchucker. I'm still using that Rockchicker for everything I shoot except the .375 H&H, .404 Jeffery and .416 Rigby I replace the Rockchucker with a Rockchucker Supreme as those cartridges were too large to load with the original press.

I do have a Dillon 550B set up for 9MM and a full die set up for .45 ACP. I haven't used it in years.

Last run of .38 Spl. I did was 1,800 rounds, all on the Rockchucker. Bullet was the cast Lyman #359495 wadcutter sized at .359" over 3.1 gr. W231. Brass was mixed brands that were separated according to make. Standard Winchester or CCI primers, whatever was handy. These loads were tested using a friend's Ransome rest agains some Winchester factory wadcutter target load at 25 and 50 yards. My loads were noticeably more accurate at 25 yards and totally beat the factory stuff at the 50 yards mark.

I cast my own bullets with an allow that run 11 one the BHN scale and is the one I use in most, if not all my cast bullet loads, rifle or pistol.

I load handgun ammo and some rifle ammo in what I call batch runs. For example for the last run of .38s, It was1,800 pounds. Charge was 3.1 gr. W231 for the 140 gr. WC bullet. I kept it rather simple. I resized 900 rounds on day one. I did the next 900 the next day. Next I deprimed and belled the next step the next two days, 900 each day. Then I primed them, 250 per day until all were primed. Powder was done the same way, 250 a day. Each charging was checked for weight every tenth round.
Seating bullets was done over 900 rounds after checking once more to insure all cases were properly charged. A good flashlight helps when doing that.

Note that while I ran all the brass, I did check all the Winchester target brass for length. They have two cannelures on the case, the second one to apparently stop the bullet from somehow receding into the case like a turtle pulling in its head. The have a habit of stretching badly when being resized.

Paul B.
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
9,755
Location
Dallas, TX
Start with inexpensive equipment to see if you like it, because I see more expensive equipment for sale from people who just started and found out they didn't like reloading.

Cost will look something like this excusing equipment.



View attachment 35231
I take the opposite approach. I read reviews, watch Youtube videos about different reloading equipment, find out from this fourm and then a little at a time, buy the best reloading equipment I can afford. In the past, with cheaper equipment, it's a struggle to keep everything working properly. Not just reloading, but say woodworking. Years ago I bought a cheap table saw. It was just incapable of making a proper joint. I upgraded to a higher quality saw and my problems went away.

Or with reloading. I bought a Hornady progressive. While it was a great press, it wasn't as nice as a Dillon. Same thing as the table saw. I just recently upgraded to a Dillon 750 and volia' reloading became easier and more enjoyable.


But to the OP. Definitely get into reloading. Especially with reloading 38's. You can get a variety of bullets and powder for that caliber far beyond what you can buy in factory ammo. I really like 38 wadcutters. I know you can buy wadcutter ammo, but it isn't widely available.

And, as everyone has said here, it's a great hobby. Plus you will be able to shoot during the next ammo crisis. :)
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
4,449
Location
Lemont, PA, USA 16851
I'll echo what others have said, if reloading is a chore for you, I'd advise against it. For me it's actually a relaxing time. I don't go for max output per session, just a nice pace and I relax, put the days problems behind me and enjoy my time at the press.

I also started in 1974 with a Lee Loader and a heavy wood mallet. Graduated 18 months later (I'm a slow learner) to an RCBS Junior single stage, then to a Lyman Crusher single stage (still have it and use it for specific calibers), then to a Dillon Square Deal B (loaded a sh*t ton of .38 spl over 3 years of competition - .38 spl brass, 148 gr HBWC, Federal 100 SPP, 2.5 grs RedDot (later switched to 2.5 grs of Solo 1000 - cleaner burning) gave just over 700 fps (minimum required for PPC). Now run a Dillon 550B (with modifications to make things easier and safer) and 9 different caliber tool heads - it does everything that I need it to do at this point in time.
 

NC FNS

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
408
Location
Western NC
I'll close this long-winded response with a statement made a few times above. You may not save money,, but you can shoot a lot more for the same money. But if you shoot the same amount as you currently do,, then yes,, you will shoot for less money.
I love the info, even if long-winded. Makes me long for FGuffey on one of the other forums. I think he stopped posting a few years ago when some didn't appreciate the length of his replies.
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
9,755
Location
Dallas, TX
Another negative,, especially for a new reloader,, is the learning curve of a progressive (the Dillon) over a single stage. BUT,,, they you can begin on a Dillon,, and do quite well. if you read the manual, and especially if you have a friend who can mentor you in their use.
Contender: Great post. And yes, you are correct, the learning curve on the Dillon is more than a single stage. BUT!!! Dillon has some excellent factory videos on Youtube that go through the whole process step by step and are very helpful. I've watched them several times each and they answer a lot of questions.
 

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