Your method for fitting a grip frame

[rutcutter]

How do you guy fit a grip frame without messing up a guns finish?

Working a stainless birds head that has never been fit to a gun.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[rugerguy]

bottom line is you "rough it in" with the heavy equipment, big grit paper and whatever hand files are required, ....when you get "close" YOU LESSON THE GRIT of the PAPER ( emery cloth ,aluminum oxide, garnet ,whatever), , USE FINER FILES,,,,,,,,then when it all "matches, lines up, you buff and polish BOTH frames to "match"...................keep everything "square & flat" , the curves nice and "rounded"...neatness counts :wink:

(NO POWER tools for those who have NEVER did anything even close to this..... :shock:

 

[5card]

save your self some major pains, sell that baby and find one that is off a factory Ruger, The time and chance of messing up the frame are not worth it. In most cases factory frames are very close if not perfect! the top of the ears is normally all that need fitting. The frame you have requires much file work, then sanding then polishing, plus it is the sides and the ears and in most cases squaring it to the frame. It is a bust!

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

I have done several of them and do enjoy that kind of work. I like to fit unpolished stainless grip frames to blued guns to end up with a two tone gun.

I first install the grip frame on to the main frame to make sure all the screw holes are in the proper locations and the hammer mortice aligns with the mortice in the main frame. If all is good there, I remove the grip frame and blacken the surface that mates with the main frame using a black magic marker. Re install the grip frame and snug up the screws.

Next I use a new single edge razor blade to scribe all around the main frame (into the magic marker ink) any places where the grip frame is wider than the main frame. Usually this is all the way around the mating surface of the new grip frame. Be careful not to scratch the main frame if blued. If SS it can be polished out no problem.

Remove the grip frame and now you have a line to file down to. File the sides keeping them flat ans straight. When you get right to the line, re install the grip frame and double check for any places where more meat will need to be removed.

This is the place where you will need to start with the abrasive paper. I usually use wet or dry paper and start with180 or 220 and work down the grits to about 600 grit.
Stainless frames will buff out to a mirror polish on the buffing wheel after sanding to 600.
Have fun!!

 

[GasGuzzler]

Stainless is a lot easier than blue IMO.

I can't even figure out how to read at least one of the posts here.

 

[BlkHawk73]

Check fit, remove from cylinder frame, apply friction, repeat. I have not the patience so mine get sent to Gallagher.

 

[wapiti22]

I'm in the middle of fitting one to a 41 mag. with 4 5/8's barrel. It's a Ruger Bisley steel frame from Midway and hammer and trigger from Power Custom. A very enjoyable project so far and not real difficult. I have a good selection of gun working tools and mechanical aptitude and it's coming together very well so far. When completed will send it off for a blue job to complete it.

 

[rutcutter]

Thanks for the tips, I think Chuck's method sounds pretty good. The frame I picked up is pretty rare. It was made for an old model. I polished it to a mirror finish last weekend, went to install it on a Old Army and found it was made for a narrow trigger. Took half a day and all the Super Bowl to file it out for a wide trigger. That's when I found out how proud the sides were.

Like Wapiti22 I like projects like this. As mention the gun is stainless so any boo boos should buff out.

Thanks again guys,

Mike

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Like wapiti22 , I find this kind of work very relaxing. It is almost as fun as making grips.