Too-much lube or not enough?

Titus

Single-Sixer
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May 4, 2022
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Arkansas
came across this video and haven't actually used the lubricant either so don't know how well it works but i feel the lubrication oil was way too much. Errrrrrrrrrrrrrr

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It sure looks like too much but really can't say. I no nothing about that Lube nor requirements on that gun.
I will say with years of experience on police ranges, mainly handguns but rifles, shotguns also. Most over lube, a few do it right and some won't lube when it's needed. The some who won't seem to be too busy to maintain anything.
 
That thick lube in the video doesn't look like it would seep into the crevices to lubricate shafts and pins, but probably just perfect for the slide.
 
Just with pistols... I use oil on the innards and I grease the rails.... this is what they preached on a different forum that I no longer visit because me and the owner did not see eye to eye on a vast number of things....

I was taking a class our in the desert years ago and one of the instructors said my Sig was over lubed and would jam from the dust and debris in the air... I just kind of gave him the look, I think he was a Glock guy.... P226 never even thought about jamming... going through hundreds of rounds..
 
When I went through the GLOCK Armorers School the lube question was asked. The instructor demonstrated a big drop an his index finger tip, he wiped that single drop on each of the 4 rails. That is all he recommended. He didn't say anything about the other components. I still put a small dab of grease where the connector and trigger bar slide. Almost 100 % of the firearms that come into my shop are dry as a dog bone. Excess lube whether grease or oil is a "dirt magnet". I make it a point to lube the rails of a semiauto and cycle the slide until no excess oil is worked out of the back side of the slide frame interface. On revolvers the axle of the cylinder is done with the same intent, wipe until the excess ceases to exude from the joint. To lube the internals without a side plate removal cock the hammer a couple drops into the action and blow an air gun into the action to distribute the oil, the excess will come out the trigger port.
 
I've purchased older Smith & Wesson revolvers for low prices because they would not function properly.
Go home, clean and lube and they cycle like new.
For some reason no one likes popping the side plate off a Smith to inspect, clean and lube.
I've found like new S&W's that were bone dry inside.
Picked up a really nice nickel plated Model 36 Chiefs Special for $250 at a pawn shop because the hammer would stick and wouldn't cycle.
It was an easy fix.
 
When I went through the GLOCK Armorers School the lube question was asked. The instructor demonstrated a big drop an his index finger tip, he wiped that single drop on each of the 4 rails. That is all he recommended. He didn't say anything about the other components. I still put a small dab of grease where the connector and trigger bar slide. Almost 100 % of the firearms that come into my shop are dry as a dog bone. Excess lube whether grease or oil is a "dirt magnet". I make it a point to lube the rails of a semiauto and cycle the slide until no excess oil is worked out of the back side of the slide frame interface. On revolvers the axle of the cylinder is done with the same intent, wipe until the excess ceases to exude from the joint. To lube the internals without a side plate removal cock the hammer a couple drops into the action and blow an air gun into the action to distribute the oil, the excess will come out the trigger port.
They taught us the same thing. I still do the finger tip with a drop of lube. I am doing the same with the Glock clones also. Then the question is what lube. I think any is better than nothing. What's best? depends on the gun.
 
I looked at their website. They are going after some sort of marketing thing. To be honest, I'm not really sure what they are going after. They are selling "sauce". Their word for gun lubricant. And lots of stickers etc. But they have a cinnamon scented lubricant. Why???
 
Whether it be Benchrest Central, Accurate Shooter, Rimfire Central, Snipershide: a very opinionated discussion is too little or too much lube, and how/when to clean.
I run AR's and HK delayed roller's Wet. I am not in the sandbox. If I were I miye change my opinion. It makes maintaining them and cleaning them easier. Just my 2bits
 
Oddly the driest pistol I'ver seen was a brand new still In the plastic from the factory Sig P239 I bought from a member here.
I picked it up at my local FFL and decided to run by my gun club and try it out and took it out of the box and plastic bag an saw how dry it was and had to scramble in my work van to find some oil of some type before I would even fire it.
 
I've purchased older Smith & Wesson revolvers for low prices because they would not function properly.
Go home, clean and lube and they cycle like new.
Some revolvers, if the star in the back of the cylinder is dry, it won't cycle double action no matter how hard you pull the trigger.
 
I know for a fact that, (that Blume will attest to) a dry P-95 will not function properly but liberally oil it and it is a sweet shooter. On the flip side too much oil on the firing pin of a striker fired gun has been known to cause ftf from light hits. Seems each gun is a little bit different.
 
yep, I get chastised when I point out to Glock fans that they better not oil the firing pin chamber....
I think Fox Mike's P95 which had come back from the factory was just too tight and will smooth out after a couple thousand rounds.. his son and I tried all kind of things to figure out what was going on and finally I just lubed the dickens out of it and she ran like a top.
First AR I bought a good friend just told me, "the wetter the better".
Since I don't think many of us are crawling through sand or mud or having to run through dust and debris kicked up by mortar rounds... I'll just stick with the over lubed is probably better.
 
I looked at their website. They are going after some sort of marketing thing. To be honest, I'm not really sure what they are going after. They are selling "sauce". Their word for gun lubricant. And lots of stickers etc. But they have a cinnamon scented lubricant. Why???
There is a certain generation they are marketing to and it ain't us.
 
Anyone notice how many new guns are "colorful"?
For me guns are either blue, stainless, nickel, or black

Now they're neon blue with stars and pink stripes, gold and silver with pics of dollar bills. I saw one Glock that was ceracoated like a black and white cow.
Another had Bitcoin colors.
 
I can testify that too much lube attract way more dirt and carbon than lighter amounts. The oldest son will routinely "just throw some oil in it" when his shotgun action hangs up (usually cuz its dirty). When we clean guns together he nearly has to shovel out the grime before he can actually clean and oil.
Mine is more of a brush, solvent, oil, done procedure.
 
Anyone notice how many new guns are "colorful"?
For me guns are either blue, stainless, nickel, or black

Now they're neon blue with stars and pink stripes, gold and silver with pics of dollar bills. I saw one Glock that was ceracoated like a black and white cow.
Another had Bitcoin colors.
Yep some of them I think actually look good. I guess there is something for everyone.
 
Then of course there's that miraculous wonder rifle that never needs cleaning and lubrication. Oh wait, that disaster is over fifty years old and still being "updated" to work correctly. And the new and improved (several times) varmit cartridge for it is now ineffective and being replaced with one that's pretty close to what the Garand was designed for ninety years ago.
 
Yes, I probably use way to much oil, but I'm the type that cleans it 2 to 3 times more than I ever use it.....I used to be like that with my motor-cycles (which sadly are all gone now), but they always looked new, as all my guns presently look like. After all these years, I will continue to keep doing the same....
 

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