Thinking about getting a 10/22, need advice

[Kodiak3d]

I've been thinking about getting a 10/22 to tinker with and I had a couple of questions.

First, what should I expect to spend on a used 10/22, and where is a good place to get one?

Second, what are some of the better (and economical) aftermarket parts for them?

And third...well, is there anything else I should know or look for in a good, used 10/22?

 

[ranger1]

The bottom line is, how much are you planning to invest?

A new 10/22 can be had for $200 to $220. I'm thinking a used, good condition model around $140 -$150. IMO, you're better off buying a new model. If you would rather buy used, gunbroker.com or armslist.com are options....or local gun shows.

Adding aftermarket parts can add up quickly,dollar wise.

I suggest you first find the rifle and then do some internet research and ask questions relating to the specific aftermarket part(s) you want..... The sky is the limit for customizing a 10/22.

 

[Gizmo42]

The ones at the gun show here are usually as much or more then new ones. I only go to the gun shows anymore if I'm bored, everything is over priced. A lot of guys get used ones for a decent price from pawn shops. Also check local gun shops. The one near me always has used rifles and most are a reasonable price.

As far as upgrades, the best things I've done on mine are extended mag release (new ones already have those), volquartzen extractor, and Power Customs adjustable trigger and sear kit.

Check out rimfirecentral.com for more info then you ever wanted to know about what you can do with a 10/22.

 

[ranger1]

The ones at the gun show here are usually as much or more then new ones. I only go to the gun shows anymore if I'm bored, everything is over priced. A lot of guys get used ones for a decent price from pawn shops. Also check local gun shops. The one near me always has used rifles and most are a reasonable price.

As far as upgrades, the best things I've done on mine are extended mag release (new ones already have those), volquartzen extractor, and Power Customs adjustable trigger and sear kit.

Check out rimfirecentral.com for more info then you ever wanted to know about what you can do with a 10/22.

+1 Good Post

 

[WTC7SmokingGun]

The show I went to seemed like independents/individuals were adding the price of transfer fees even though they weren't doing any of the paperwork. :? I guess they figured if you didn't mind the paperwork you'd go to one of the real dealer tables. I dunno though, I kind of thought the look on the guys face as I walked out on his used Charger (which he turned down $325 cash for, BTW) was worth the $50 or whatever I paid in fees to buy a new one from Buds'. :twisted: I think I might hunt for some busted 10/22s with usable receivers next time though. :idea:

 

[Baldy]

If you are going to build one up get the 10/22 carbine as all you will use is the receiver. That is if you go that far. Gun shows, pawn shops, and gun stores have them for $100 to $150 lots of times. They are just a little over $220 new if you shop around. The sky's the limit on what you can spend on one if you want to trick it all out. Good luck. 8)

 

[Snake45]

I've been thinking about getting a 10/22 to tinker with and I had a couple of questions.

First, what should I expect to spend on a used 10/22, and where is a good place to get one?

Is there a Walmart near you? Go check out their price for a new one. Now, don't plan to pay more than 80% of that price for a used one, unless it has cool old parts such as a walnut stock.

Second, what are some of the better (and economical) aftermarket parts for them?

What makes you think you NEED any aftermarket parts for it? Shoot it as-is for a while and then let us know HOW you plan to USE the gun and what you think might could use some improvement. Get back to us then and we can start spending your money sensibly. :wink:

 

[Kodiak3d]

What makes you think you NEED any aftermarket parts for it?

Where's the fun in that? :lol: I can't buy much of anything without tiinkering with it some.

 

[blume357]

For pricing around here... it's a hard call... used ones are just about the same price as new... or no more than $50 less.... but if you can find a used one with a beat up stock at a local store that is the way I would go... because what you are basically buying is the receiver in the long run.

prices are always about $50 more at a gun show for a private purchase in my experience... but you are paying for the location and convenience. Buying a 10/22 on line is also usually price prohibitive unless it is one already customized just like you want it... after shipping and the FFL fee, you've spent way more than you would locally.

My last project 10/22 I bought new locally... they had a stainless steel one new for 229... I ended up getting $50 for the stock after shipping... and kind of wish I had kept it now.

The new verses used is always a delima... if you take in the cost of your time then often it's best just to walk into a good gun store and buy a new one... I'd probably suggest this if you are just starting out with 10/22s ... then you in theory know where you are starting from.

 

[soot4brains05]

Kodiak3d,
Good luck finding one cheap. I've been looking for a used one for almost a year and it seems as though the older ones are holding value better because of the plastic parts in the new ones. And on that note does anyone have any experience with the new 2009/2010 models that do have the plastic housed trigger groups, are the reccievers/bolt as good as the old ones? As I have found a used one reasonable (finally) but it's newer and got the plastic parts, which I don't care about because I'm probably going to put a volquartzen trigger group in it, but just not sure about the newer receiver and bolt. Any help appreciated. don't mean to hijack the post but thought info might help Kodiak3d too.
Thanks, Carl B.

 

[SocialD]

My advice would be to do some research to find out exactly what you would like your rifle to be when complete. That way you have a better idea of what you need to buy. Soot4brains05 provided a good example. Say you aren't happy with the plastic trigger housing, but you are planning to replace it with a VQ housing...you might be able to save a few bucks by purchasing a rifle with a plastic trigger housing.

One mod that I really like is drilling a cleaning hole in the back of the receiver. This has the benefit of being able to clean the barrel from the breach with the added bonus of being able to bore sight your rifle the old fashion way.

 

[WTC7SmokingGun]

Problem I have with aftermarket trigger assemblies is they all come with auto bolt release. I absolutely hate that mod. I personally think it's very handy to be able to jiggle a locked bolt when there are a few rounds jammed up in there, without danger of a slam fire occurring, that is. Call me crazy...

If you go to Ruger's website under misc video there's a drop test vid of new trigger guard vs. old. What bends doesn't break (or rust either, in this case.) But much like Coke vs. Pepsi, I guess it's mostly personal preference. I'm going for the space-age cowboy thang myself... modern technology with retro style. :lol:

The bolt in my new Charger looked like something I could have cast and ground down in my own basement though. That'd be the first thing I'd change, and get a poly bolt buffer.

 

[Gizmo42]

The only issues I've read about with the new ones is the crappy wrinkle finish they were using (I think I read recently that they changed that). It tended to peal off really easy, especially if certain cleaners were used. And that the machining wasnt as good as it was in the past. All cosmetic though, no functional issues.

As far as the plastic trigger group, meh. Plastic or aluminum doesnt matter to me. I have a plastic pistol and have no concerns about it. Havent read about anyone having any problems with the plastic trigger group housing.

 

[soot4brains05]

That's good info on the aftermarket trigger assy's, I did not know that. Now you got me thinkin to try and get a trigger job on the factory setup. But then with the one I found it's a plastic trigger housing and stuff (can you tell I'm not a fan). I already have a 1983 made 10/22 SP with really nice walnut on it and I can't bring myself to use it for a project gun. So maybe the hunt continues. BTW for Kodiak3D the asking price is 175, but it's a consignment gun so if I do talk myself into it, I'll probably only go as high as 150. It's at a local gun shop and I haven't checked the pawns lately so I'll probably do that for a while and see if I can find what I really want.
Carl B.

 

[jimd441]

I agree with Snake in that perhaps no modifications are necessary. I have a DSP (the model with the nice walnut stock) that I bought 2 years ago. The only modification that I made was to add a scope and I have been quite happy.

Don't worry about the new trigger assemblies. Everyone seems to happy with the functioning of the new trigger assemblies. Some people just don't like the fact that a change was made though.

Jim

 

[soot4brains05]

Kodiak3d,
Update, persevere at the pawn shops. I found a late 2007 model with the metal trigger guard & barrel band, the only thing plastic is the butt plate. I did have to step up a bit, 175.00 out the door, but it has a cool S/N 350-00122. 3 digit, but what's weird is Ruger’s site lists 2007 starting at 259-99957 and 2008 starting at 351-45548, so they skipped over a bunch of prefixes. I called them at one point in time and it was at the beginning of 2008 they went to the plastic trigger housing and such. Found a place that takes Ruger trigger assy's and loads some Volquartsen parts and get's a 2.5 Lb pull. Here's the web addy, http://shootersdiscount.com/cart/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=739 They get 86 bucks for it. That's just what I found, if you guys have any better economical ideas for a better trigger pull, I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks, Carl B.

 

[Gizmo42]

For about the same price I did mine myself but mine has an adjustable sear and I added an over travel stop to the trigger. About 2-2.5 lb trigger pull with no take up or over travel. I just watched a video on youtube about taking it all apart then played it again and followed along. They arent difficult at all to work on and just drop in parts.

Close up of my trigger with hole for sear adjustment and over travel stop