Swapping barrels SBH 2011 and SBH 1989

[Onty]

I have SBH, stainless, made 2011, with 5.5" barrel, and have a chance to purchase quite cheap SBH, stainless, made 1989, with 7.5". Mine is like a new, other one is VG to EXC.

Before going into further discussion, I would like to stress that my SBH 2011 has installed Bisley grip, hammer and trigger, locks cylinder like FA, and it was made 2010 and after. Apparently, it is better revolver than earlier ones since at 2010 Ruger started cambering cylinders with a sing cutting tool, not any more with 3 tools head, so cylinders are more uniform, and groups are quite better.

Since I do not have any more use of SBH with 5.5" barrel, and have preference for 7.5" barrel. I was thinking about getting SBH with 7.5" barrel, and swapping barrels. How difficult is that, since we are talking about two revolvers made more than 20 years apart? Would barrel swapping require some kind of light trimming of barrel shoulder in order to keep front sight upright, and also barrel aft face to set barrel gap to .004-.006"?

Unfortunately, smiths skilled in revolvers are non existent in my area, so I will have to rely on a good tool and die maker, if I ever decide to do that swapping.

BTW, If I ever take off barrel from any of SBH-s, and want to put it back, would barrel stop in very same position, or some sort of barrel trimming is required in order to get front sight upright?

Thanks!

 

[contender]

Barrel swapping is a little tricky.

Especially if you have to properly center the front sight. The better way to get it right is to have the barrel shoulder cut to where it "clocks" to about 10 degrees from top dead center. And of course,, you have to consider the ejector rod housing alignment. Then there is the cylinder/barrel gap to consider. And once you cut back the barrel,, you may also have to re-cut the forcing cone.
All this is best left to a good gunsmith. And if you do not have a local gunsmith who can do it,, you'd be better off shipping it out to be done,, instead of using a local tool & die guy. Unless the tool & die guy is well versed in gunsmithing.

If you remove the 5.5" barrel, and decided to put it back,, usually,, (but not always,) they will go back on w/o any alteration.

If you prefer the 7-1/2" barrel,, and are unsure of how accurate that gun may be,, you may be getting ahead of yourself. if you get it,, and shoot it,, you may be pleasantly surprised. But if not,, having the cylinder worked over is often easier than doing a barrel swap around. And adding a Bisley g/f & other mods is also easier to do on a gun w/o swapping barrels around.

 

[Onty]

Thank you Sir for very informative answer. So, if I understood you properly, regarding "barrel shoulder cut to where it "clocks" to about 10 degrees from top dead center.", barrel should be trimmed so when is tightened just by hand, it should stop at about "10 degrees from top dead center". Then to final, correct position, barrel should be tightened using appropriate tool, and holding revolver in vise with frame inserts.

 

[contender]

You are correct in the interpretation. Just remember,, once you cut back the shoulder,, you will also have to cut back the face of the throat end of the barrel, and likely have to re-cut the forcing cone.