Super Blackhawk - Some gunsmithing basic info, please

bee-kay

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 4, 2017
Messages
39
City & State/Province
Northern California
I've had my SBH Hunter apart a few times, so I'm not timid about doing work on it.
Here's my first question;
How many times can a barrel be removed and screwed back on before the tolerances on the thread or other parts of the barrel begin to show wear or fatigue?
And a second question;
While I have the barrel removed, is there any custom treatment that can be given to the forcing cone or the crown that would enhance the compatibility with lead bullets?
Or improve accuracy overall?

Thanks gentlemen - Looking forward to replies
 
Think about it for a minute. Every mechanical part has certain tolerances that must be kept within to allow production line mass assembly. Are your barrel threads at maximum or minimum tolerance? Are your frame threads at maximum or minimum tolerance? Screw the barrel into the frame a few turnes,does all slop go away or is it loose or tight all the way in to the shoulder?
To many variables to even hazard a guess. Is there a reason to keep removing the barrel over and over?
 
Well, I've done some work on it already
I'd love to post some pics, but I can't find any photo sharing button here

When I got it, it was the only stainless .41 mag around, but I didn't want a 7.5" barrel so I shortened it (using a lathe)
to 5.5"
Now I have to machine a slot for the front sight
 
An entire chapter of a book could/has been written to mostly cover each part of what you are doing. It sounds like you have machine skills so you should have no trouble ending up with a great finished project. I own over fifty Ruger revolvers and have never seen any reason to HAVE to modify the forcing cone. Ruger engineers know what works most of the time and these are not match grade guns to begin with.

Are you going to cut for a dovetailed front sight or re install the factory base or machine out or buy a custom base? Either way,you will most likely need a taller front sight than it came with.
Great project, have fun!!!
 
Bee-kay, Here are two good post topics on forcing cones:
http://rugerforum.net/gunsmithing/36018-forcing-cone-question.html
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=65420

John
 
Thank you tremendously for the replies.
All the info is highly applicable and is greatly appreciated.

Hunter - The jury is still out on what type of front sight I'll end up using and the mounting method.
I have a leftover sight that I JB welded into a hole that I drilled in the top of the barrel where the front sight is.
It ought to stay on long enough for me to figure out what the height of the front sight should be, after I do some more shooting.
When I know what height F sight will work, I'll go from there.
I may mill a slot and use a pinned one
Maybe I'll go with a ramp that attaches with screws.
Probably not a dovetail, cause I don't have a dovetail mill tool.

I also shaved down some Hogue grips from their monsterously oversized original form, to better fit my own hand.
I welded up the inner part of the lower rear corner of the grip frame and then shaped away some of the back-strap to form a rounded butt.
That's one thing that I really appreciate about stainless... Scratches? No problem!

I have some quick pix below
The barrel isn't crooked, it's distortion
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
I didn't follow the tips in the pic posting thread... Obviously

You wouldn't believe what I had to go through to post these

413224542.jpg
413224541.jpg
 
If I had a horizontal mill, I'd mill half-round slot and use a pinned one.
I'll take it to a gunsmith and have him mount one for me - if it's the right height
If it had a round barrel, I could use a ramp that I already have, but it would look weird to machine the end of the scope ramp off just to mount that sight
 
I used a S&W barrel with rib and integral Ramp front sight and base. I think it's a sexier looking rib than the Hunter. Shortened on the frame end since it needed rethreading anyway. Removed ejector rod shroud from barrel.
 
Back
Top