Stupid smithin' question for the day

[gasmandave]

I want to remove the grip frame and swap hammers on my blackhawk. 5 screws don't mix them up. Right. There seems a lot of tension from my hammer strut spring, I don't want parts to fly off all over and would like to reassemble it without a hassel. Any secrets? Just remove the crews and be careful. I don't want any unwanted suprises.

 

[DGW1949]

Remove the grips.
Cock the hammer.
Stick a roll pin, small nail or HD paper clip into the hole in the hammer strut.
Lower the hammer a bit and the spring's energy will be captured.
Once the grip frame is off, keep the hammer spring, retainer and pin together as an assembly....and re-install it as an assembly when you're done with what you're doing.
Be aware of which way the arch in the strut points.
All the above is perty-simple and applies to both the OM and the NM Blackhawk.
The NM trigger spring is a hoot the first couple of times that you fool with it. You'll need a tail about 4 foot long with a finger 'n thumb on the end in order to get it back in place.....or maybe a small screw driver....or maybe one of special tools made for that purpose.
And yeah, lay the grip frame screws out in the pattern they go back in so's you don't mix them up.

Pictures help.
If you don't have a manual, one is available on the Ruger site.

Good luck on your project.

DGW

 

[tommyt]

Go to Ruger dot com find Tech info then Tech video watch disassemble and reassemble its a walk in the park, watch both and you'll be able to do it in a half hour.
It makes you feel good
Good luck
Tommyt

 

[gasmandave]

Cool...Thanks, I knew there was a trick to it.

 

[gasmandave]

Well I tried it last night to see if I could get 'er done...took about 30 mins with some minor issues. When I pushed out the hammer pin it came out quickly and ended up on the floor. I didn't get what side the slot was on so put it in backwards and the long grip screw wouldn't screw in, my SBH has the long screw on the oposite side of the frame so I guess the pin and screw placement doesn't matter. Fixed that issue, then when the hammer came out and the pawl dropped out when I rolled the frame over, didn't see that coming and!?! got it back in, then during reassembly the small pin and spring for the cyl dawg wouldn't stay on top of the dog. All in All it went well. PS. I didn't watch the tech video 1st but then that's just me! :roll: Thanks DGW1949 & TommyT. PSS> Is red lock tight really necessary on the screws?

 

[G2]

There is no RED LOCTIGHT :shock: :shock:
The red stuff your seeing is red polymer, Ruger drills a little spot in the screw to put in the little red polymer. I never use Loctight,
I check my screws from time to time. (pre-flight inspection) If you really wanted to Loctight I would go blue. I do use a drop of my wife's clear nail polish on the ERH screw. Just enought, works well.

You really should have watched the video. :roll: . . . . :wink:

 

[InjunBro]

Uh, actually there is such a thing as red loc tight. I have a bottle right here, it's medium strength & just right for scope base screws, etc. You're right - none is needed for action screws, just check them now & then.

 

[G2]

Uh, actually there is such a thing as red loc tight. I have a bottle right here, it's medium strength & just right for scope base screws, etc. You're right - none is needed for action screws, just check them now & then.

Ahhhh you mis-read my explanation on RED Locktight.

The OP saw red and thought it was Red Locktight. I tried to make it clear that it is a Red Colored Polomer.

IMO Red Locktight is not for firearms, anywhere, no if's and's or but's. That's my Opinion, and it's OK it usually stinks. :wink:

.... to each his own.

 

[flatgate]

I was going to post RTFM! Then I decided, nah, let the guys help out the Newbie.

Nah, I just have to say it....... RTFM!
Read the barrel..........

flatgate