Stainless GP100 Scratch Removal

[arcticruger]

I just noticed this mark/scratch on my GP100. Never been fired and it’s the only mark on it. It looks black but the lines actually look shiny like it’s been polished, almost mirror like. I was unable to get that to show in the picture.

What’s the best way to remove or repair this? I read somewhere to use a scotch pad but I’m nervous to try it, lol

 

[hittman]

Scotch brite pad

 

[Bayou Boy]

0000 steel wool and gun oil.

 

[RoninPA]

0000 steel wool and gun oil.

Don't use steel wool on a stainless steel firearm unless it is stainless steel wool. Standard steel wool will leave minute amounts of material that will rust if it is not completely removed. Using Scotch Brite pads to polish stainless steel is really the way to go.

 

[Bayou Boy]

Wow I forgot to add stainless. Please forgive me.

 

[IPSC]

Scotchbrite pad should work..... if the original scratches are deep, you may need to find coarser grit of Scotch pads to start....but ending up with a finer grit and going "with the grain" should work well.....

 

[arcticruger]

Well a BIG thank you to everyone! Appreciate all your suggestions. I picked up some gray Scotch Brite pad from NAPA and went to it. Turned out better than I could imagined. Thanks a again!

Here is the before and after pics:

 

[IPSC]

Happy it worked for you....looks fantastic !

 

[RoninPA]

You dun good! Looks like it should, nice and even all around.

 

[Rclark]

Looks good and remember "Read Instruction Manual" cause that is what is stamped on your barrel .

 

[Acorn]

That’s the beauty of stainless

 

[Hylander]

Wow, Looks Perfect

 

[wproct]

Yes, you did very well! Like Acorn said, that's the beauty of stainless steel, specially the brushed finish that Ruger puts on the GP100. Makes them very easy to touch up any abrasions or scratches, just like you did. You are gonna really enjoy that GP100!

 

[G2]

You did good!

I have noticed that after “Scitch-Brighting” Stainless, there is a bit of a shine, over time (a few months) it dies down, and blends back in.
I now wait till the entire gun is in a state of needing some love and then go at it.
It’s so nice & new when completed.
Tempting to take the SB to the face of the cylinder to clean the black/ carbon off, I find the Lead Away cloth works better for this operation or Flitz which works really good on lead & copper deposits in the barrel. Some say that Flitz has abrasive in it,
Read up!!!
… It does not.

 

[kean57]

You did good!

I have noticed that after “Scitch-Brighting” Stainless, there is a bit of a shine, over time (a few months) it dies down, and blends back in.
I now wait till the entire gun is in a state of needing some love and then go at it.
It’s so nice & new when completed.
Tempting to take the SB to the face of the cylinder to clean the black/ carbon off, I find the Lead Away cloth works better for this operation or Flitz which works really good on lead & copper deposits in the barrel. Some say that Flitz has abrasive in it,
Read up!!!
… It does not.

The best product I have found for removing carbon/powder burns off the face of a cylinder is a product called RB-17. It's a more of a gel than a liquid. A little RB-17 and some OOOO steel wool on the face of the cylinder will make it look like it has never been fired. And it will not harm factory bluing.