I have just acquired a new to me SR1911 in 10mm. I will take possession of it Saturday. I just noticed in the pictures that were sent prior to the trade that it has a solid trigger. Everything else looks good. I am under the impression that they all came with skeletonized triggers that had an over travel adjustment. An aftermarket trigger could be a sign of other issues I will face such as replaced internal parts. This could be a problem if I needed to send it back to Ruger for some issue I am having. They could say, hey we won't fix it 'cause its been modified. For reasons I'm not getting in to, its not possible to undo the trade. Lets leave it at that. What would you do? It may not be an issue at all. Or, it may have a bubba'd trigger job lol. Can you send a pistol in to Ruger and have them go thru it and correct any issues? It has a serial number of 672-90xx and I can't find a date of manufacture on the web. Just exploring options with my first post here! Merry Christmas everyone!
SR11911 10mm
- Thread starter JHallford
- Start date
NikA
Hunter
Welcome to the forum.
Looks like you're missing a S/N digit, should be 672-90xxx. There are some SR1911 models with a solid flat trigger, but without knowing which you traded into, hard to say what the situation is. Ruger will generally fix issues that are their responsibility, you may have to pay for them to deal with ones created by the previous owner.
Looks like you're missing a S/N digit, should be 672-90xxx. There are some SR1911 models with a solid flat trigger, but without knowing which you traded into, hard to say what the situation is. Ruger will generally fix issues that are their responsibility, you may have to pay for them to deal with ones created by the previous owner.
OP
Correct. I was missing the last digit. Shipped in 2017. Target Model M 6739 if I'm not mistaken. It shows in the specs that it should have had skeletonized trigger. Will be going to Ruger for a thorough check up and to make it stock again. Who knows what else was changed or altered. Thanks for your response.
I bought mine used it has the skeletonized trigger that you mention. Mine has been ported at some point. The porting makes the recoil noticably lighter. You may get lucky with some aftermarket work. I did a trigger job on mine and brought the trigger ull down to 2.5 pounds.
Why Don't You Just Wait And Get It , And SHOOT It. It Might Be A GREAT Shooter. Could Be NOTHING Was Done To It. Just My .02. Good Luck.
OP
Oh, you can bet its gonna get shot for a while before it goes anywhere. Just getting all of my ducks in a row in case I need to take some corrective action.
carbonfibrebob
Redhawk
I have an OE trigger if you are in need. You pay for shipping and it is yours
As I understand from other people posting if you send something to Ruger for repairs they will take anything not stock and replace with stock item, return the gun with the aftermarket parts in a bag, something about liability.
OP
Thank you so much. I have one also. Bought it when I saw that my pistol didn't have the proper trigger.
OP
Thanks. I have one also. Kind of you to offer.
OP
Haven't shot it yet but the trigger is horrible. Way too much take up and its really gritty. Doesn't break crisply at all.
If that turns out to be true, you may want to order some internal parts from Ruger to replace the aftermarket ones
JackBull
Hunter
Do the SR1911 10mm hold up to full power 10mm loads? As I recall the Colts, and others, did not.
The first thing I did when I bought my SR1911 10MM was change out the OEM trigger, hammer and grip panels. To me they are goofy looking. I replaced the sear/disconnector only because they came with the hammer as a kit. Much less fitting is needed that way (usually).
I would recommend tearing it down and inspecting the hammer, sear and trigger engagement, disconnector to trigger bow engagement. Also the travel stop screw may just need adjustment. Or at the very least a complete strip, clean and new lubricant if all looks good as is.
A good way to know if a "Bubba" messed with the internals is the thumb safety....if it doesn't have a nice "click" to it and it's mushy/no distinct "click".....then "Bubba" was probably in there.
Does it pass all 1911 function/safety tests?
I would recommend tearing it down and inspecting the hammer, sear and trigger engagement, disconnector to trigger bow engagement. Also the travel stop screw may just need adjustment. Or at the very least a complete strip, clean and new lubricant if all looks good as is.
A good way to know if a "Bubba" messed with the internals is the thumb safety....if it doesn't have a nice "click" to it and it's mushy/no distinct "click".....then "Bubba" was probably in there.
Does it pass all 1911 function/safety tests?
OP
Forgot I had posted this. Update: Thumb safety was mushy as some one stated in an earlier post. I believe Bubba had been there. Called Ruger and they suggested I send it in. The lady said they would go thru the pistol and make sure all parts are factory. She said there would be no charge for that, as its covered in Ruger's "stand behind our firearms" policy. I asked about re finishing to remove scratches and re-do worn Ruger etchings etc. She said that they would do that for $110. I said, "go a head". Then I asked "how do I get it to you? she said FED EX. Said I would have to go to the Fed Ex hub and send it in. I said, OK. Did some further checking and was told that Ruger wouldn't accept a return from an individual even if FED EX delivered it. Called Ruger back and got a different lady. She confirmed everything except that In order to get repairs done and sent back to my home, I would have to pay $74 for a FED EX label ( at the hub it would be $50, but Ruger wouldn't accept it unless it came from a dealer). I asked that if I paid the $74 would they accept it being shipped from an individual and she said well, actually no. It would have to come from a dealer and then would have to go back to the dealer. The dealer in my case is 100 miles away but that is OK because I'm in that city at least 3 times a week. I'm still confused as to the shipping policy for returning pistols to Ruger for work. Called back one more time, got a different lady and yet a different interpretation of their rules. Said to hell with it, took it to the dealer, paid way less than $75 for shipping and will wait the 30 to 45 day turn around to go back to the dealer and pick it up when it is sent back. Still galls me to have to have to run a background check to pick up a gun I already own. Also bothers me that between Connecticut and Arizona, Ruger can't get their story straight on shipping policies.
Southerner Up North
Bearcat
Different than my experience. I sent mine direct to Prescott using FedEx. When repaired, it was shipped direct to me. No dealer / FFL involvement.
GrumpyOldMan
Guns? What guns?
Look at ShipMyGun.com. The way it's set up, your gun is technically shipped by Bud's Gun Shop. Then the problem will be locating a Fedex/UPS hub to ship it from, because the strip mall Fedex/UPS stores WILL NOT accept it.
https://www.shipmygun.com/go/
The alternative is finding a local FFL who will ship it, and then receive it back when returned - and how much will he charge you for the privilege.
https://www.shipmygun.com/go/
The alternative is finding a local FFL who will ship it, and then receive it back when returned - and how much will he charge you for the privilege.
Curious on any update here?
Yep, I Don't Understand People.. March Ask A Question, And People Try To Help. Middle Of May. CRICKETS ??????
