SP101 Ejector Rod and Spring Replacement?

[radjxf]

Hey guys, just got a NIB SP101 with an ejector rod that binds.

Sometimes it won't even push in, sometimes it won't return all the way and you have to manually push the "star" back in so you can close the cylinder.

Called Ruger and they are going to send a new ejector rod and spring.

I've worked on quite a few guns, but never a Ruger revolver.

Can anyone explain the correct way to replace these parts?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

It is difficult to replace the ejector on a ruger double-action.
I think member 'Carry_Up' did an explanation some time ago. I will try and find it for you.

Not the procedure but another thought on the problem;

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=163566

 

[radjxf]

Thanks for the help Jimbo.

I did flush it out and lube it with FP-10.

I spoke with the seller and they ruluctantly agreed to take it back, but gave a big spiel on restocking fees, etc. if they deem it "fine".

I think given the difficulty I've had in locating one of these, I'll take my chances first with the parts Ruger is sending me (ejector rod and spring) and if that doesn't work, I'll send it in for warranty work.

One other note: the slotted portion of the crane where the ejector rod goes in is absolutely razor sharp. Seems like the rod "comes out too far" and hangs up often when it tries to be pushed into the crane. No idea how you tighten this up.

Definitely need some info on how this ejection system comes apart....

Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions and help.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

The ejector rod and star is very loose on the SP, GP etc. as there is a separate lock for the front of the crane. I will keep looking for those instructions on taking the cylinder/ejector apart but many have said it is a royal pain and takes 3 hands.

 

[xlch]

Is this what your looking for?
Hawkeye


Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:01 am
Posts: 13171
Location: So. Florida Removing the crane and cylinder from the gun is easy as it is one of the major assemblies designed to come out of the gun. There are videos and instructions on how to do that. But if you want to take the ejector and cylinder off the crane that is a different story as they are captured by several small pieces that are not easy to disassemble and even harder to re-assemble. It's not impossible if you have three hands. At least that's what I have been told. Here is an article that briefly describes the procedure.

http://www.milesfortis.com/guests/mcump/mc06.htm

quote> One task, seldom undertaken and rarely necessary, is removal of the cylinder from the crane assembly. Since this involves removing the frame latch and the ejector rod, it is a scary proposition until actually undertaken. Then, like most of the Ruger processes, it becomes transparently easy. After either removing the grips or the entire crane assembly, observe the relatively large hole in crane in front of the cylinder. Stick a small tool-( I used a large caliber, unbent paper clip) into this hole and depress. Then shove the through-pin out of the side of the frame and start picking parts out. This single pin, visible with the crane /cylinder assembly locked in battery retains the latch, the ejector rod and they cylinder itself. Everything goes back together in reverse and just won’t fit if you put them pointed the wrong way. <end

...Jimbo

_________________
Proud union member 30+ years. ICWUC/UFCW
Single-actions, Double-actions, Lever-actions and Assorted Ruger Firearms.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I might be wrong about the SP-101 as when the crane is removed from the frame the cylinder will slide off the crane. How difficult it is to take the ejector apart I'm not sure. I remember the GP cylinder is fastened to the crane but the SP cylinder will slide right off and that is why there is a little nub on the frame to prevent that very thing from happening.

It is pretty easy to remove the crane and cylinder after removing the trigger guard. See the video on the Ruger website. Click Tech Tips, double -action revolvers, disassemble. http://ruger.com/resources/videos.html

Personally, if it was my gun I would call Ruger and ask for a return tag and let them fix it. Chances are it will come back a much better gun as their repair dept is known for going over the entire gun and making it great. Most times the repair is free and done quickly. You should not have to pay shipping on returning a new gun.

 

[radjxf]

In my miniscule free time I've tried to find info (along with help from this forum) about the ejector removal.

It looks like it may take a special slotted tool to remove the ejector rod!

I've lubed the gun, and worked the ejector rod about 250 times. It has improved, but not sure if it's "right".

Since I'll be carrying this in mountain lion/wolf/bear country (my backyard) I'd like to think it's 100% or close to it....

I'll do some more testing, but may take the advice of sending it back to Ruger. Just didn't want to be out of the gun for months while they're working on it, but oh well.

Thanks again for all of the help.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I think most minor repairs at Ruger only take two or three weeks, not months.

 

[Carry_Up]

The SP differs from the GP in that there is no ball bearing mechanism at the front of the yoke. Drop the trigger group and slide the cylinder assembly forward out of the frame. The cylinder will then slide off the yoke.

You will need a special bit to disassemble the ejector parts. Brownells has this bit. It is just a blade bit with a notch in the center and a clearance hole in the center. Remember to insert 5 fired cases into the chambers before loosening or tightening the ejector screw. Unscrew the ejector clockwise (left hand thread). When the ejector is out, you can polish the rough ejector rod and ejector rod operating plunger and check for burrs inside the front part of the yoke that holds the operating plunger. Roughness inside the front of the yoke is my bet on why yours is hard to operate. A new ejector may need the same work.

Also note the direction the springs are installed. It is important to put the large spring back the same way it came out. The ends of the spring are different sizes.

Let us know how it comes out.

 

[radjxf]

@Carry_Up: Thank you for the info.

I've been dry-firing and manipulating the ejector rod vigorously at night in front of the TV. I've got the ejection improving.

If I ever stop working long enough to test-fire, I'll evaluate the ejection and send off to Ruger if necessary.

Thanks again.

 

[Carry_Up]

Every Ruger DA I have seen is basically a 'kit'. They usually work when new, but don't leave a great impression. Lots of sharp edges, machining grooves and casting marks need attention. If you are up to it, do a little at at time and your SP will start to feel like a completely different revolver.

-Carry_Up