Single Six Value???

[32shooter]

I have the opportunity to purchase a 1966 SS, it includes extra cylinder(numbered to gun), red felt bag & box. It has been converted but does include original parts. Overall gun is in good shape with a small amount of blueing loss on one side of barrel. That's the good news. Now the bad news - it has been dilled for a scope. How much would gun be worth and anyone have any idea how difficult it would be to repair it and have a nice shooter?? What would the box alone be worth?? Thanks for any help.

 

[contender]

Well, it's a shooter grade gun. The D&T took away any collector value. Even if you get it repaired, it'll still be a shooter due to the reblue required to cover the welded over holes. About $300-$350 as is. The box, It's a $50-$75 item.

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

Wow, wish I could find them that inexpensive around here.

 

[rugerguy]

TY is right, the drill and tap KILLS any and ALL "collectors" value, so is as he explained it and about the same pricing around here, too many people read, look at the books of values, and have NO clue what the effects of "personalization or customizing" does to any given firearm, you "fix" it in ANY way, ( the right way calls for a total refinish) the gun is NO LONGER "original" ergo, the values get "halved" or even more, sorry ,that is the REAL world..............we like to say those "holes" cost about $125 EACH !!!
Around here, they buy the "package" for the 'parts' ,pieces, box, paper work,etc, then re-sell the gun as a shooter, get some of your money back.....................

 

[wideglide]

I had a Blackhawk that needed service from Ruger and they would not repair it due to the taps. They did give me great deal to replace it with a new one though which I accepted. You have no warantee from Ruger on that gun according to what they told me about mine.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Ruger offers no "warranty" on any of its guns.

Historically, they have been pretty good about taking care of problems with minimal, if any, cost. This has been getting mixed reviews lately, though.

 

[wwb]

I'm betting the box didn't come with the gun.... it's marked "WMR" but the gun has two cylinders, and the frame does not say "magnum". As I understand it, the early .22 magnum guns were so marked, and this one ain't.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

All the later 6-1/2" guns were still called RSSM even after they became convertibles and they dropped the "Magnum" marking off the frame.

I believe the WMR box notation carried over for a while, too.

 

[contender]

Ale-8(1) is correct. This gun has two cylinders, and likely post magnum only production. The OP mentions 1966 production, but the gun carries the neck feather grip medallions, so I'd place it post magnum only. The boxes were used for the later convertibles as well.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

I just checked. I have one shipped in January, 1969. It checks out as an RSSMX (convertible) and is in its original box which is like the one shown here.

:)

 

[street]

All Old Model Single-Six revolvers with a 6 1/2 in bl. will have RSSM on the box label. It doesn't matter if it is a Mag. only or a convertible, it doesn't matter if the frame is marked Mag. or only Single-Six. If it is a 6 1/2 in Single-Six then the box will say "RSSM"

 

[Ale-8(1)]

I usually won't "date" a gun based on grip panels since they can easily be changed.

I will, however, try to get the proper panels on a gun once I own it.

Too easy.

;)

 

[32shooter]

Ok guys I purchased the gun. I test fired it before buying and had numerous rounds that would not fire. I am going to attempt to put the original parts back in gun. Hope this is not to difficult and that it fixes the FTF issues. I am going to attempt to plug the holes and reblue with some cold blue. Anyone have any opinions on the best cold blue to use on it? I will probably be listing box in classified section at some time. Thanks for any help.

 

[Hondo44]

Whichever cold blue you use, the hotter you get the metal, the longer it will last. Clean with acetone thoroughly. Heat the metal with a hairdryer until too hot to touch and apply bluing.

I prefer the Oxpho Blue 'cream' from Brownells.

 

[32shooter]

Thanks for the help Jim. I think while I have it apart to put original parts back in gun I may strip the frame and ejector rod housing and make it a two tone. I read in an old post where you used oven cleaner to strip the frame and housing. I may give that a try.

 

[Hondo44]

You bet. Another thought, nice original finished old model grip frames are getting harder to find. I can't see the entire grip frame but based on the amount of original finish on the gun, you may want to consider selling the grip frame and go to a blue steel or stainless grip frame and ERH. Or swapping with someone, who needs a nicer one, plus a few bucks from them to at least cover the postage both ways, instead of stripping your nice one. Same with the ERH.

Just a few thoughts worth what you paid for them....

 

[32shooter]

ERH housing is in excellent shape with one very small mark on underside. Frame has a few small marks on it but overall pretty good condition. Would there be an issue with fit if I were to trade out the frame?? It is almost too nice to polish out. Maybe I will attempt to repair the holes and reblue and see how it turns out. Maybe keep my eye out for one in worse shape to polish out.

 

[Hondo44]

Not likely to be any fit issues. The alloy frames were not fit to the guns (still aren't as far as I know) so the fit doesn't vary much. They all just fit mediocre.

You may want to keep an eye open for a steel version in stainless and steel ERH. It won't tarnish like polished aluminum.

I'll PM you with one for sale. It's a drop on because it's from an Old Army blackpowder Ruger. The trigger slot is wider but not a problem or you can use a wide OM SBH trigger. Your grip panels will fit as well.

All steel OM FT with wide trigger:

Old Model 357, but not a flat top with SBH trigger and hammer:

 

[32shooter]

Very nice. I will have to keep an eye out for one. Thanks for the info.