Shootin' Double Action...........

[Bob Wright]

(I spelled it out lest anyone think I was talking about the man.)

I'm no expert by any means, and least of all with the DA revolver. But I've been following threads regarding pull and finger movement that made me somewhat curious. And it seems to me folks are over-complicatin' the situation.

First of all, my concept of handgun shooting is concentration: on sight alignment and trigger squeeze. Master that and all else falls into place. Pull the trigger to the rear to fire, release to re-set.

And, in my case, I've used Smith & Wesson K-framed revolvers. N-Frames are too big for me to grip comfortably for DA shooting.

I begin squeezing just as my gun comes up to eye level, then align the sights and squeeze some mor until the gun fires. This is especially important for follow-up shots, my trigger squeeze helps bring the sights back down on target.

I use Smiths as I feel they have the very best DA trigger, stiff enough to bring the gun back down, and very smooth without a hitch at let-off. Even better than the vaunted Python.

I just started shooting that way, slowly at first until my shots were in the black, then sped up my follow-up shots. Again, I'm not a published expert, but I do hit where I aim. And that's the point of the whole exercise.

Bob Wright

 

[pisgah]

Dead on, Bob. Regardless of the details of individual technique it all comes down to sights and trigger control. You really can't appreciate the versatility of a DA revolver until you master DA shooting.

 

[glockman99]

I do 95% of my shooting in double-action...I'm getting pretty good at it, but still not anywhere close to the skill of Jerry Miculek...That guy is crazy fast & accurate.

 

[Bob Wright]

Let me pontificate further:

Not all DA revolvers are suited to double action shooting. This is especially true of the N-Framed Smith & Wessons such as the Model 25 and Model 29. As usually sold, these revovlers have the wide grooved triggers and broad checkered hammer spurs, and thick oversized target grips, which all add up to very good single action shooting but do nothing for double action shooting.

I once built up a Model 625 in .45 ACP that was a fair DA gun except that it was too big for me even with thinned down grips. Firing even moderate ACP loads caused the gun to shift around in my hand so that it was no longer in a straight line. This was it:

The trigger was not so wide as the Model 29, and was smooth. The gun had a round butt which didn't help my DA shooting a bit, letting the muzzle droop. I made these conversion grips out of walnut to help the situation, but still left me with a very long trigger reach.

Bob Wright

 

[Buckeye!]

Police Six 357 mag

Speed Six 357 mag

Well worn DW 357 mag M15

Well worn DW 357 mag M14

These are the revolvers (besides my DAO) that I feel very comfortable with shootin DA.... The two Rugers have had really nice action jobs , and the DW are smooth... I practice DAO at defense ranges 7 to 10 yards...I useally carry 38 Spl +P 158 gr LSWCHP for SD purposes ..and practice with 38 spl 158 gr LSWC not quite at +p levels but stouter than 38 Spl fodder

As we all know the Ruger Six series are around the S&W K frame size..and the Dan Wesson Small frame is actually similar to the S&W L frame or the Ruger GP seris

 

[Bob Wright]

Buckeye (Buckeye in TN?),

All of the guns you show sort of emphasize what I'm talking about as being good DA revovlers, medium framed with smmoth combat type triggers.

I have no experience with Ruger DA guns, but have shot my son-in-law's Dan Wessons. They are smooth working guns but I still prefer the DA trigger pull of S&W K-Framed revolvers. Seems a little stiffer to get going, but smooth release.

Again, my preferences only from my observations.

Bob Wright

 

[Shamrock]

Bob, thanks for your description. To add a little, as I have also just learned on my own. As far as "squeezing"--it's what I'm doing when I'm holding on to the gun with one or two hands. Pulling the trigger is a picture in my mind of moving the trigger straight back--which is not squeezing (like I'm squeezing the gun to hold on to it and steady it) it so much as just moving it as straight back as possible. I've read about where to place the finger on the trigger too. But it seems most comfortable/natural just before or at the crease. Probably all wrong but works for me. Best/smoothest/uniform travel/lightest double action trigger is my Dan Wesson .357. Ruger Speed/Security/Service sixes (all used) are smooth but heavier pull. Sincerely, R.

 

[Boge]

 

[Snake45]

(I spelled it out lest anyone think I was talking about the man.)

I'm no expert by any means, and least of all with the DA revolver. But I've been following threads regarding pull and finger movement that made me somewhat curious. And it seems to me folks are over-complicatin' the situation.

First of all, my concept of handgun shooting is concentration: on sight alignment and trigger squeeze. Master that and all else falls into place. Pull the trigger to the rear to fire, release to re-set.

And, in my case, I've used Smith & Wesson K-framed revolvers. N-Frames are too big for me to grip comfortably for DA shooting.

I begin squeezing just as my gun comes up to eye level, then align the sights and squeeze some mor until the gun fires. This is especially important for follow-up shots, my trigger squeeze helps bring the sights back down on target.

I use Smiths as I feel they have the very best DA trigger, stiff enough to bring the gun back down, and very smooth without a hitch at let-off. Even better than the vaunted Python.

I just started shooting that way, slowly at first until my shots were in the black, then sped up my follow-up shots. Again, I'm not a published expert, but I do hit where I aim. And that's the point of the whole exercise.

Bob Wright

Not much else to add to that. Yes, it really is just that simple. :wink:

 

[Buckeye!]

This is my 1938 S&W Brazilian contract 45acp..at some point customized bobbed hammer , bobbed barrel 3.5 inches parkerized....

Bob
I got the handle Buckeye when I was a sprout ..from shootin buckeyes out of the trees

 

[M'BOGO]

Four things have helped me a lot with DA revolvers. Good grips, practice, practice, and practice.

 

[Snake45]

Not all DA revolvers are suited to double action shooting. This is especially true of the N-Framed Smith & Wessons such as the Model 25 and Model 29. As usually sold, these revovlers have the wide grooved triggers and broad checkered hammer spurs, and thick oversized target grips, which all add up to very good single action shooting but do nothing for double action shooting.

Bob Wright

Couldn't agree more. The S&W wide "Target" trigger is fabulous for SA shooting but absolutely sucks for DA.

I replaced the Target trigger on one of my 25-2s with a standard skinny one. And I replaced the Target trigger on my K-22 with a spare Target trigger I had on hand which I ground down to match the factory .312" "Combat" trigger, and polished the face smooth. Now it's wonderful!

I don't find the Smith Target Hammer makes any difference in DA shooting. As to the Smith factory Target stocks, I rather like them in both looks AND feel, and have them on all my square-butt K and N frame guns.

 

[Bob Wright]

Bob
I got the handle Buckeye when I was a sprout ..from shootin buckeyes out of the trees

I have seen buckeyes, but to my knowledge never seen a buckeye tree. Ohio is called the "Buckeye State" and I always associated buckeyes with the north, and noticed you're from Tennessee. I sure didn't mean to imply you were a yankee.

Where in Tennessee are you? I'm down at the southwest corner.

Bob Wright

 

[Bob Wright]

I don't find the Smith Target Hammer makes any difference in DA shooting. As to the Smith factory Target stocks, I rather like them in both looks AND feel, and have them on all my square-butt K and N frame guns.

That's true, except S&W used to sell the hammer and trigger as a matched set is the reason I mentioned it. While it doesn't hurt DA shooting, its a little out of place on a DA gun as its broad, sharply checkered surface is awfully hard on clothing. I had to buy one of those stick-on nylon patches to put inside one of my vests.

But several years ago I tried to buy a smooth combat trigger for a Model 19 and Smith would only sell the trigger with the matching hammer. Ended up trading off the gun.

Bob Wright

 

[Snake45]

I don't find the Smith Target Hammer makes any difference in DA shooting. As to the Smith factory Target stocks, I rather like them in both looks AND feel, and have them on all my square-butt K and N frame guns.

That's true, except S&W used to sell the hammer and trigger as a matched set is the reason I mentioned it. While it doesn't hurt DA shooting, its a little out of place on a DA gun as its broad, sharply checkered surface is awfully hard on clothing. I had to buy one of those stick-on nylon patches to put inside one of my vests.

But several years ago I tried to buy a smooth combat trigger for a Model 19 and Smith would only sell the trigger with the matching hammer. Ended up trading off the gun.

Bob Wright

Well, as I said, I had some extra Target triggers laying around, so I just carved a Combat trigger out of one with a Dremel and an afternoon's careful work. Here's before and after pics.