Ruger No 3 Question

[Gonfishn]

So, it's done but not fired yet. Went to F&S and bought a couple of dry fire rounds, loaded it up and dry fired. Now I realize you have to physically push the round into the chamber and then cock the lever back in firing position. I fired and dropped the lever to the load position and had to physically pull the cartridge out. I notice that the ejector arm has a bit more farther it could go and I'm wondering if it's broke? In other words, the dummy round doesn't eject any further than the position that it loads.

 

[ndcowboy]

It should pop a spent cartridge right out.

 

[Gonfishn]

It doesn't pop out so I went to Numrich and looked at the schematic for it. From what I can see, its missing the Ejector Strut Adjustment Screw, not sure about anything else though (inter-connected to the ejector assemble as I hate to pull the pin and drop everything out?). I think I'll order the part and see if that does it, failing that, any suggestions as to who to send it to? I see Ruger doesn't service the No 3 any longer.

 

[wunbe]

You usually can adjust the ejection strength down to zero. Guys that do that shoot a lot from the bench and save their cases for reloading.

wunbe

 

[picketpin]

You don't have to take anything off except for the forearm. It's possible the the adjusting is just backed off to the non eject position.

Even in that position or with the spring TOTALLY removed the cartridge should be extracted out of the chamber and sort of just sit there in the channel to be picked out.

IF you can NOT extract it fully by full operation of the lever it sound like your brass is not sized properly.

I shoot a LOT of varmints and usually just removed the screw,plunger and the spring and put in a pill bottle just in case I want to re-install it.

The tension screw determines how vigorously the case is extracted or ejected.

Take a look and see if it's just backed off or gone. I could probably send you the whole shebang or whatever is missing. They aren't going back into my 22-250s. ;-)

Ross

 

[Gonfishn]

Thanks Ross for the reply. You're right, I'm missing the ejector strut adjustment screw which I've ordered from Numerich already, along with the ejector strut, ejector strut spring and ejector strut swivel. I see where the adjustment screw goes and I'm wondering if the other parts then go between the fore end strut and the ejector arm as there's a dimpled end on it? I know this probably isn't making much sense and I can't tell from looking at the schematic whether these other parts go inside the receiver case or are aligned "after" the ejector screw. ADDED LATER Went to You Tube on the off chance that there'd be something on disassembly and hit the jackpot. There's a kid on there that disassembles a No 3 and the good part is that I now see exactly where the afore mentioned parts go. Thanks kid

 

[picketpin]

There are FOUR parts to the ejection function. You never actually take the extractor out. It is held in place by a cross pin and if loose and the forearm is off, it can fall out and then so will the actual extractor. BUT if it's in place and you can see the "dimple" on the extractor, here is how it goes.

You'll have 4 parts. The screw to increase tension , the spring and two plungers. One plunger fits inside the spring and has a teat that protrudes and fits that dimple in the extractor. The other plunger goes inside the other end and has a cupped end that the tensionng screw rides in when exgaged. (The rounded end.) So install the screw with the Allen head out and the rounded end in. Just till the screw ALMOST clears. Then install the ejector spring and the plungers and "capture" the assembly by tightening the screw into the cupped end of the plunger.

It's trial and error after that but you can do it with the forearm ON but not screwed down. Just screw the adjusting screw inside and put the forearm on and see if that's the amount of extraction/ejection you want. If so fasten the forearm down and your done.

Other wise simply repeat, screwing the adjustment screw in and then trying it with the forearm on and at some point you'll be happy. Screw/attach the forearm and your done.

I stress trying it each time with the forearm on. Without the forearm in place the spring can torque and I have had them pop off and fly across the room. It sometimes takes a while to find the spring and the two plungers. ;-) So I recommend trying it with the forearm on but not permanently attached as you find the extraction/ejection you want. THEN permanently attach the forearm.

Ross

 

[Gonfishn]

Thanks, as soon as the parts get here I'll get on it.

 

[Gonfishn]

Got the parts today, it was a breeze putting them on and I took the advice about keeping the forearm on while adjusting the screw and didn't loose any parts Anyway, well satisfied. Thanks folks for the help.