removing muzzle brake Ruger Hunter

BadMatrix

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hi
i cannot tell if this is a straight forward removal with a wrench. i know its a bugger to hold the rifle.

it just screws off right?
IMG_7165.jpeg
 
Tell ya one darn theen...

Some of these muzzle brakes and flash hiders have been a real bear to unscrew.

I bought a pair of small strap wrenches, and that's been the ticket for me. Lotsa torque with no damage.:)

One on the device, and one on the end of the barrel next to the device.
 
They are possibly installed at the factory with rocksett adhesive. If the installer used a bit too much it could be a real bear. It takes a several hour to an overnight soak in water to loosen it up. It is temp resistant so heat does not loosen it.
 
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I saw a video. I did use a heat gun A little cuz its cold in New Hapmshire right now. But mostly put in a tight fitting screw driver, and a 7/8” or 3/4” inch to hold it and it broke free! The M3 brake from Rugged now poses a different problem cuz none of my wrenched are skinny enough to bite…..always something. Thanks for the responses.
 
'poses a different problem cuz none of my wrenched are skinny enough to bite'
I had a set of 'thin' combination wrenches that were just the ticket for this problem. "HAD" is the keyword. Some slow and careful work with an angle grinder on a common open end wrench may work--just don't get it too hot in the process.
 
Rockset is easily broken down with a boiling water immersion for 3 minutes.
 
Collet block and vise to hold barrel directly behind the brake. Maybe heat on the brake but mostly plenty of torque. If I cared about the barrel but not the brake I'd use a steel rod through it instead of risking a too-thick wrench on the flats.
 
DO NOT under any circumstances just hold the rifle by clamping the buttstock is a vise. This will most likely damage the bedding and/or other parts.
As NikA said, use a barrel clamp to resist the torque of removal.
I work on AR type rifles. Those muzzle devices are often torqued severely to 'clock' them against the crush washer. Most of the time, I can get them loose by using a piece of automotive heater hose to pad the barrel and clamp it in a bench vise. Sometimes, I have to get everything secured and smack the end of the wrench with a deadblow hammer to 'break' it loose. Also mentioned: A line up punch or pry bar may work but can damage the brake.
 
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From the Rocksett website…

“The only way to break a proper Rocksett bond is to soak the part in hot water for 20 minutes or more and then forcibly remove the components”.

Once again , applying heat does not help in the removal if that is what was used to install the brake.
 
I contacted Ruger this exact same question a while ago. They more or less confirmed what Mobuck wrote:

DO NOT under any circumstances just hold the rifle by clamping the buttstock is a vise. This will most likely damage the bedding and/or other parts.
As NikA said, use a barrel clamp to resist the torque of removal.
I work on AR type rifles. Those muzzle devices are often torqued severely to 'clock' them against the crush washer. Most of the time, I can get them loose by using a piece of automotive heater hose to pad the barrel and clamp it in a bench vise. Sometimes, I have to get everything secured and smack the end of the wrench with a deadblow hammer to 'break' it loose. Also mentioned: A line up punch or pry bar may work but can damage the brake.

Ruger suggested using an old leather belt, but an automotive heater hose sounds good to me also.

I did not ask them about Rocksett since I didn't know about it at the time.
 
When I removed the muzzle break from my GSR I bought some rubberized pads for my vice. Tightened in the barrel in the rounded pads. Supported the rest of the rifle on my workshop bench. Had a wrench that fit. Muzzle break was tight but there was no movement of the barrel/rifle. Don't forget a new crush washer if need be with whatever you put over the threads.
 
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