Reloading the .223

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gramps, sorry to hear you are still having some trouble with the .223 - I had sent you a suggestion to use plywood for your table top. Sorry that didn't work out either. You have received some good suggestions. Crimped primers should not be that difficult to remove. I've done thousands of .223 commercial and 5.56mm military with no trouble at all. I use RCBS dies and a RCBS primer pocket swager. After all I've read here I can only suggest you try a different sizing/decapping die. Perhaps send yours back to Lee with a note explaining the problem. See what they say. Worth a try anyway. Good luck. Hope you get this resolved soon. Gerry
 
mattsbox99 said:
Too much lube will make them difficult also.
Click to expand...

Hi,

Ding! Memory jog, courtesy of Mattsbox. Thanks!

Gramps, your sizing die should have a tiny hole drilled in it on the side. It's quite likely down in the threaded area and hard to see (it's probably about mid-shoulder depth.) Best I can tell, its job is to vent excess lube to help save case shoulders from dents, while sizing. Depending on where things end up when the die's adjusted for your press, that hole can be covered by the lock ring . That's no big deal if the hole remains open, but it can easily become clogged if there's extra lube on the case.

If that hole's plugged, you've just created a mini compressor "running" at up to 150 psi or so! So you might try examining the side of the sizing die, locate that hole, and stick a pin or wire in to make sure it's clean. A healthy shot of brake cleaner--or maybe some mineral spirits and a Q-tip--inside the die body should get residual lube out, too.

And, since you mentioned the LGS' dies didn't work, either, there's a possibility a bad run got out w/ no vent holes. If you don't find a hole at all, a call to Lee might be informative!

Still thinking of other possibilities...

Rick C
 
Thanks guys. Eventually it will get worked out. I use Lee
lubricant sparingly. Plus with only 5 casings through it? I'll
ck for the hole make sure it is open. I have 85 primed .44
mag cases to fill tonight. Woo hoo!!
gramps
 
The .223 is the only round I do not reload for. With the surplus and Wolf ammo it it cost effective? I'm sure your reloads shoot great, better than factory, but I do not get out the Bushmaster for accuracy. I have collected allot of reloadable .223 brass........ convince me why I should reload them, please
 
I haven't been able to reload any yet. I wish
To reload for better quality, more accurate ammo to
use in my H&R Handi-Rifle. If you're happier not reloading
.223 then don't. I used steel cartridges in mini 30. I hated
Cleaning out the baked on laquer.
gramps
 
I agree gramps! If I wanted to get the best out of my bushmaster I would reload, but I bought it, well lets say for SHTF or blasting a few hundred at a time at dope bottles. I can not even imagine my using the .223 for anything else. Now say if I happen on a TC Encore barrel I would load for it fer sure. However I have other calibers that I do reload that can do better than the 22 cal. My personal faviorite is a 25-06 pre 69 custom built Mauser that I love that I have taken deer past 350 yds. Good night by brother,
 
I built my reloading bench from a kit Lowes Home Imp Store.

2x4 legs, 1x6 bottom band on legs, the top is 2x6s'. Been using it for years. I did put a piece of masonite on top to eliminate the cracks between the boards.
 
Oh goody, a resurection! Thanks to all for the helpful hints. I was gone a year travel nursing. I bought a universal decapper today from the LGS in Lebanon, Tn since I was at the gun show in Lebanon. Shizammm that was the cats meow. Those primers came out as easy as any of the pistol cartridges I load for. I was on a roll and deprimed 40. Then on to the sizing after lubing them. Whoa not so easy, but getting done. On the 7th my table broke. OK, I guess now I'll go to Lowe's or Home Depot for a sturdy table. Light at the end of the tunnel. Again THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!
gramps
 
This all sounds odd. I cut 6" off the handle of my LEE Challenger press because I was applying TOO MUCH FORCE while sizing. I found that shortening the handle reduced the chances of sticking a case while sizing by about 90%. Even then, I don't have any problem driving out crimped primers.
 
If you can't find a reasonably priced table locally that you are certain is sturdy enough . . . you might look around for the Lee Reloading Stand:

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-LP90688-P...379264270&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+reloading+stand

What's not shown in the picture are the one or two concrete blocks you buy at Lowe's etc and sling under the very bottom. I use it on my Lee Classic Turret, and have used it on a Hornady single stage . . . it absolutely works. It also doesn't take up much space, is "portable", and allows you to use normal household tables for the rest of your reloading needs.
 
Ordered a B & D workmates bench online shipped to home free for $60.00. One of the reviewers used it for reloading. Hopefully I will be in buisness within a week.
gramps
 
After reading your posts, I figgered I had the same trouble. I got a crimp remover from Dillon and life is good. You can get other crimp remover dies, but Dillon works the best. The way I heerd it is: commercial new brass, unloaded is the way to go. Military ammo will have the crimped primers and bullets at the case mouth. I de-crimped all my military brass and it all works in my AR's, ranch rifles. The military needs the crimped primers in the M16. I've seen pulled primers in them! WTheck! You also need a case length guage, and Midway has them too. Good Luck bhk
 
Did some homework last night, you can buy the lumber to build a sturdy work bench from Lowes for around $87. They don't offer the kit I used but many different metal legged benches. Home Depot still offers a 6' "kit" and also many metal legged benches plus just metal legs for benches. The metal legs and your own table top may be the most cost effective. Make sure you provide at least 2.5" overhang on the front with this board being a 2x10 or 2x12 to provide good cantilever stability.
 
I can't even imagine having a problem like you're experiencing gramps - why don't you just try using Imperial Die Wax and see if that doesn't solve your problem and if Imperial doesn't solve it - maybe get a set of Redding Dies and use Imperial Die Wax.!??
 
7p's said:
I can't even imagine having a problem like you're experiencing gramps - why don't you just try using Imperial Die Wax and see if that doesn't solve your problem and if Imperial doesn't solve it - maybe get a set of Redding Dies and use Imperial Die Wax.!??
Click to expand...
I will make do with what I have. People have reloaded for years with it. I knew the table was flimsy :shock: So it wasn't a surprise when it broke. The sizing is ok if I can apply the full pressure of the lever. Thanks for the concern and ideas. I may come back later and re-read if I can't get it going. It might help others also.
gramps
 
Gramps;
Not sure around your area but I can usually find a nice wood or metal desk at a thrift store pretty reasonably priced. They might have something sturdy enough for a reloading bench.

Heck, I picked up a little cabinet sturdy enough to reload on from the neighborhood during bulk trash week a while back. I didn't even pay tax on that deal.
 
If stability is a problem, you can always use some of those steel " L " shaped brackets, and fasten the thing to the wall! I reload on an old wood kitchen table, and also an old light duty wooden desk, but I have enough weight in dies, bullets, and other equipment to hold everything in place! Good Luck wit it-JB
 
The table came Friday by UPS. The box was in terrible condition. Top unglued and open. Bottom had a huge tear in it and stuff rattling around. Before anything else I called UPS ( I wasn't home when delivered). They said inventory and let them know what was missing. Miraculously it was all there! Table is together, but not as sturdy as I would like so I'll clamp some 3/4 inch plywood to it and I should be good to go.
gramps
 
I don't wish to anchor it in my kitchen! When I clamp the 3/4 inch plywood top to it it will be sturdy enough for my purposes, but I'll be able to hang on wall in between loading sessions.
gramps
 
Ok, I got the clamps today, and got my 3/4 inch plywood clamped down to the table, then my powder measure and lastly the single stage Lee press. Flying along with the sizing die (primers already out and cases lubed with Lee sizing goo) with 2 cases left I stuck a case in the die and it pulled the case out of the case holder. I have sprayed with penetrating oil, tried prying out with screwdriver-no go, have used a small vise grips still no joy. Used the search feature here and got no match's. How do you remove a stuck case? I cannot even get the de-primer sizer out of the die/case.
gramps
 
Went to you tube. Something so easy for most people will be like major surgery for me. I won't be reloading .223 for a while. At least not until I order from Midway or make a few trips to the hardware store. Thanks hangnoose for the ideas.
gramps
 
Search YouTube as I did, and you will see ALL of the major die manufacturer's listed as having stuck casings. I am glad you haven't had any problems. If you reload any length of time- you will, according to the Internet FWIW. :)
gramps
 
I don't know about that gramps. I been loading '06 for over 30 years and have never had a stuck case in all that time.
 
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