I have a new model bh in 45lc and I was wondering if you can convert the cyl to 45ar,I know there is in .030 difference in rim thickness between the two and the cost of 45lc is ridiculous now.if this is a possibility can anyone here recommend a good smith to do this?
Question about cylinders
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NikA
Buckeye
.45 Cowboy brass (.45 Colt rim, .45 ACP case length) would be a less expensive way to accomplish this objective.
Yes but I've got 200 brand new primed auto rimmmed brass ready to go
NikA
Buckeye
Sunk cost fallacy. Trade it for something you can use, you'll spend more than it's worth on machining the cylinder.
ETA: worth noting that in many cases, it's more than just shaving the back of the cylinder. .45AR has a larger rim and may interfere with the ratchet.
ETA 2: Starline has .45 Cowboy brass in stock. 250 for 83.50, I believe that includes shipping.
ETA 3: I initially assumed you had a .45 ACP cylinder. You definitely do not want to shave a .45 LC cylinder, would no longer have the correct headspace datum for the marked cartridge.
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So you are going to wreck a gun for 200 cases and primers!!! Maybe you should sell the gun and get a 44 so there will be plenty of ammo options??? Not to mention that every round will be shaving when it reaches the step where the normal cartridge would be.
contender
Ruger Guru
Welcome to the Forum!
Your idea of spending money to convert a cylinder would be better spent on working out a trade for 45 Colt brass with someone who could use the (200 pieces of primed brass) you have.
Another option;
Find a spare cylinder & have IT modified.
Your idea of spending money to convert a cylinder would be better spent on working out a trade for 45 Colt brass with someone who could use the (200 pieces of primed brass) you have.
Another option;
Find a spare cylinder & have IT modified.
bottom line yes you can, BUT I would NOT !!!! wasted time, effort and money......
ETA = Edited to add.
NikA
Buckeye
The transition to cylinder throats is specified by SAAMI to be tapered at a specific angle for each cartridge (not a distinct step), so I think "every round shaving" is unlikely. But the freebore makes it unlikely that the bullets will hit this transition uniformly and accuracy will most likely suffer.
Anything is possible if you have enough money. Maybe convert it to fire Gyrojet rounds.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
Since you're just wondering about it, it's an interesting question even since you don't plan to do it.
1. The free bore in the chamber is not an issue. Thousands of rounds of the short .45 Cowboy and also .45 Schofield (also shorter than 45 Colt have been fired from 45 Colt cylinders with no bullet shaving or any real accuracy issues. After all we're not talking about a target pistol here.
2. Recessing the chamber mouth .034" for the thicker AR rim, (.092" for AR vs. .058" for 45 Colt) could cause excess headspace for the 45 Colt. Since the rim diameters are nominally the same, the 45 Colt rim could go partially (.034") into the recess causing the case mouth to headspace on the shoulder in the chambers. Depending on the exact depth of the shoulder in the chamber and the amount of crimp on the case mouth, the 45 Colt case rim may be too far away from the firing pin (excess headspace) for reliable ignition or may not. A strong hammer spring and enough firing pin travel may be enough inertia to fire the 45 Colt in spite of the excess headspace.
But we don't know until we try an experiment in your particular gun. I just turned the rim down .034" of a 45 Colt case from the front side, to the case wall diameter and installed a primer. I crimped the case mouth in the bullet seating die but w/o a bullet installed. The case then went into the chamber far enough to simulate a chamber mouth recessed .034" for the AR rim. Fired it in my New Vaquero 45 Colt gun to see if the primer ignited. It did. But it was a very minimal primer indentation. So it's not likely to be reliable for all primer brands or in every Ruger.
Here's a thought: modify the AR cases. if you have a lathe or know someone that does, turn down the rim thickness as I described above on your 200 cases. You not only can shoot them in your 45 Colt, you can reload them and keep shooting them in any 45 Colt revolver.
1. The free bore in the chamber is not an issue. Thousands of rounds of the short .45 Cowboy and also .45 Schofield (also shorter than 45 Colt have been fired from 45 Colt cylinders with no bullet shaving or any real accuracy issues. After all we're not talking about a target pistol here.
2. Recessing the chamber mouth .034" for the thicker AR rim, (.092" for AR vs. .058" for 45 Colt) could cause excess headspace for the 45 Colt. Since the rim diameters are nominally the same, the 45 Colt rim could go partially (.034") into the recess causing the case mouth to headspace on the shoulder in the chambers. Depending on the exact depth of the shoulder in the chamber and the amount of crimp on the case mouth, the 45 Colt case rim may be too far away from the firing pin (excess headspace) for reliable ignition or may not. A strong hammer spring and enough firing pin travel may be enough inertia to fire the 45 Colt in spite of the excess headspace.
But we don't know until we try an experiment in your particular gun. I just turned the rim down .034" of a 45 Colt case from the front side, to the case wall diameter and installed a primer. I crimped the case mouth in the bullet seating die but w/o a bullet installed. The case then went into the chamber far enough to simulate a chamber mouth recessed .034" for the AR rim. Fired it in my New Vaquero 45 Colt gun to see if the primer ignited. It did. But it was a very minimal primer indentation. So it's not likely to be reliable for all primer brands or in every Ruger.
Here's a thought: modify the AR cases. if you have a lathe or know someone that does, turn down the rim thickness as I described above on your 200 cases. You not only can shoot them in your 45 Colt, you can reload them and keep shooting them in any 45 Colt revolver.
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Hondo44
Hawkeye
Turning off .034" from the rear cyl face on a lathe would be simple. Any local gunsmith or machine shop could do it, and also fit the front hub to your frame. When you shop for a cyl look for one with the same overall length measured with a caliper or larger.
