Old model 77RSI problem

[rufrdr]

I have an old model 77RSI (tang safety) that I am at least the third owner. It was used hard in the field by a previous owner with the stock scratches and gouges as witness. The trigger pull felt like 10 lbs but I went along with it. I've had it to the range 2x prior to today without a problem except for the floor plate popping open periodically. I tightened the middle screw as I read that a loose screw there can let the floor plate pop open.

Took it to the range today and the good news was that the floorplate didn't open on the first shot. The bad news is that is all I got off because the safety bound up between safe and fire and not the bolt would not cock. I took it home, removed the floor plate, magazine, and trigger guard and the problem was solved and the trigger pull was much lighter! I couldn't remove the action from the stock because the muzzle is held by the stock tip and the trigger bumps against the wood cut out and will not let the stock lift out.

So, why did it lock up, and why is it ok now? The front screw was tightened by someone with arms like Charles Atlas because I almost couldn't get it to move. Also, how the heck does the receiver come out of the stock? What am I missing here?

Thanks for your help!

 

[bnewberry]

Sounds like something was binding but I don't know what. I hope to learn something on this one!

 

[rufrdr]

A gratuitous picture of the little carbine.

 

[cellar701]

Nice rifle, and welcome to the forum! I do like the RSI tang safety - what caliber is your new/old acquisition? To answer your question/problem, I think I am reading your issue correctly that you are trying to remove the barrel/action from the stock without removing the muzzle cap from the tip of the stock. The muzzle cap must be removed first.

Regarding the muzzle cap on the tip of the forend, it is held in place by a screw on the bottom. This screw engages an escutcheon which is pressed into the wood of the stock - it does not hold the barrel in place directly (that is, the screw does not attach directly to the barrel or the front sight). With the screw removed, slide/wiggle the muzzle cap forward off the end of the stock and off the barrel front sight band. The metal muzzle cap is shaped to fit / slide over the front sight barrel band but it is not large enough to allow the barrel to lift vertically. It is a tight fit of the muzzle cap to the thin wood at the tip of the stock - it may need a light tap or two with a soft faced persuader to move it forward. With the muzzle cap removed from the stock you can lift the barrel vertically off the stock and remove the action.

Hope this helps.

 

[cellar701]

Regarding your safety binding, it is probably some interference with the safety link (a wire connector between the safety button and the safety shaft in the receiver) and the stock. Sometimes these are bent inadvertently and sometimes on purpose - I even bought a used rifle one time and the safety link was missing!! - but the link can bind on the wood stock, so shifting the action a bit can change the binding problem/issue. Getting the action out of the stock will allow you to examine it and find the issues. Just remember that, due to possible stock interference, the safety may work fine when the action is out of the stock, but not work or bind when the action is tightened into the stock, or after that "one shot" at the range. You need to ensure proper clearance of the safety mechanism.

 

[rufrdr]

Thanks much for the advice! It is a .308. I tried removing the muzzle cap but a few light taps didn't dislodge it so I didn't want to take if further until I learned that this was a proper procedure for taking the barreled receiver out of the stock.

The ironic thing is that I owned one of these purchased new back in the late 80s and got bored with it and traded it for something that I don't even remember what it was. 20 some years later I bought another in lesser condition for more than what I paid for my new one!

 

[Jim Walsh]

The .308 RSI was always one of my dream carbines. Finally bought one a few years ago and I still value it immensely. Notice you have a peep on yours. Seems perfect for an old tang safety model.

 

[rufrdr]

Took it to the range today. The magazine floorplate popping open issue was first up, popping open even when just the bolt was opened. Loaded a round, fired, floorplate opened. Repeat with same result. Third round I loaded straight into the chamber and closed the bolt. The carbine fired by itself. Fortunately it was pointed more or less downrange. Put it away for the rest of the range time.

Suggestions on both problems? Called Ruger but they said not to even send it to them, they don't work on tang safety 77s.

 

[cellar701]

I suggest you take it to a gunsmith.

on edit: I should have explained further: The rifle clearly has a critical gun safety issue with the safety or trigger or both. A professional/expert should evaluate it and fix it. The gunsmith can also fix the floorplate issue.

 

[rufrdr]

This seems to be the cause of the problem http://www.ruger.com/pdf/m77.pdf

overtravel screw

 

[rufrdr]

Installed the overtravel screw, put it back together, took it to the range yesterday. Fired one shot and the safety jammed between safe and fire again and the bolt will cycle but not cock. Looks like I have to give in and take it to a gunsmith. it seems like recoil is causing something to move that shouldn't.

 

[DDDWho]

For some reason known only to the gun Gawds I took the tang safety apart on a 77 I owned years ago. Inside it was flimsy looking sorta like a safety pin held in place by friction. Although the tang safety is handy I prefer the 3 position bolt Mauser type safety on current models. It just seems more durable to me.

 

[rufrdr]

When I took the carbine out of the safe to take it to the gunsmith the safety was unjammed and bolt worked fine! So I took it to the range again and put 20 rounds of factory Remington ammo through it without a hiccup. I can only guess that something was interfering with the stamped connector between the tang and the trigger. It got bumped back into position and for now all is fine. I can't have the gunsmith fix what isn't broken. I don't hunt any longer and this is only a range toy so being unreliable is merely an annoyance and not a matter of meat on the table.

 

[rufrdr]

Another range trip, another FTF after 5 rounds. The bolt wouldn't cock. Prior to the FTF the trigger pull was very heavy and mushy. Took it home and after working the action about 5 times the problem went away.

Took the action out of the stock, installed the trigger guard to the action and noticed that the trigger was dragging on the trigger guard, depending on the position of the guard. I think that the TG prevents the trigger from fully returning and resetting the sear.

I relieved some metal on the TG at the trigger contact point and as for right now the trigger moves freely, the mushy feeling is gone, and the trigger pull is better.

Hopefully that solves the problem.

 

[GAO LLC]

This is why I don't give much for traded-in guns.

 

[pete44ru]

.

Ensure that the trigger on your tang-safety has been upgraded - here's what Ruger had to say about it, back in the day:

Notice to Owners of Ruger M77 Bolt Action Rifles

Sturm/Ruger manufactured M77 bolt action rifles from 1968 to 1991.

The trigger overtravel adjustment set screw (shown on right) in a few of these rifles may not be securely tightened and may move too readily.
This change in original adjustment can, in extreme cases, either cause the rifle to fire unexpectedly (with the safety “off) or cause the rifle to not fire at all.
This may occur suddenly and without warning.
Ruger M77 bolt action rifles produced in later years have this set screw permanently secured.
These rifles have a “T” inscribed on the underside of the bolt handle.
This condition cannot occur in any of our other firearms as their trigger mechanisms differ.

Please note in particular that this condition cannot occur in Ruger M77 Mark II bolt action rifles, which are of an entirely different design.

For your safety, we ask that all owners of M77 rifles (except those with a “T” underneath the bolt handle) contact us, using the coupon below.
You will receive a new locking screw that will replace your present overtravel adjustment set screw and detailed instructions for quick, easy installation.
There is no charge for this service and replacing the screw will have no adverse effect on trigger pull.
Do not use your M77 rifle until you have received and installed the replacement screw.


.

 

[rufrdr]

Yes, I did that previously.

 

[BadMatrix]

Mine is coming next week!

 

[beentheredone]

I assume you have read the manual and are aware that there is a specific order to replace the screws and a specific way they must be tightened.

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/m77-below79.pdf