No. 3 Ejection Issues

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gatling

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Jan 4, 2010
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I have a 200th year No. 3 in .45 70 that is not ejecting properly with an unfired cartridge. If I load a round and want to extract/eject without firing, the extractor doesn't make it snap in behind the rim. When this happens, the round doesn't extract. I can push the extractor into position if I open the action a bit and then extract. It works okay if I fire the round, probably because of the recoil and related shock.

I found after searching the Internet that sometimes this is because the extractor plunger spring (Part No. S30) is broken or missing. I took the rifle apart, and sure enough, there was no spring behind the plunger.

So here's the question...can I just clip a portion of a ball point pen spring, or do I need to order the part from Ruger?

Thanks in advance,

Joe
 

David Bradshaw

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Your description baffles me as to exact sequence of events, and it is years since I shot and hunted with the No. 3 falling block. I removed the ejector spring to partially extract and keep the shell from flying out----and to reduce noise to unload when I crossed a brook, etc.

The extractor was designed to function as extractor and/or ejector.
David Bradshaw
 

gatling

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David:

It's not the ejector/extractor spring forward of the receiver I am describing; it's the small spring (S-30 on the parts list) that is under the ejector plunger.

Joe
 

David Bradshaw

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Joe.... thanks for clarification. Perhaps you have a bad part in the extraction system, or dimensional slop which allows the extractor too much wiggle room to set behind the rim? If so, parts replacement may straighten it out.

Is there a slot or some other dimensional cut in the receiver or barrel which would prevent extractor from engaging rim----short of recoil?
David Bradshaw
 

gatling

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David, it appears to be okay dimensionally in and around the extractor area. I didn't measure anything but there doesn't appear to be any interference. The extractor just doesn't snap into place behind the rim when the action is closed (it needs a little nudge because it is hanging up on the rim, which it wouldn't do if that spring were present). I found someplace on the Internet that says if the spring I've been discussing is missing it will behave the way I have described. The way the place I found on the Internet described it is somebody who disassembled and reassembled a No. 1 might not notice they failed to install the spring.

I've been busy on other things and last night I finally got around to disassembling the thing. Sure enough, the spring wasn't there. I think tomorrow I'll just clip off a section of a ball point pen spring, install it, and reassemble the thing (these things don't disassemble and reassemble that easily compared to other rifles). I'll know for sure then if that is the problem.

This is a relatively well worn 200th Ruger No. 3 that is very accurate with its iron sights and my old eyes. It's light, too, no doubt due to all that missing metal induced by the .458 caliber hole down the barrel. I am going to send it to Ruger to have it reblued and I have a maple blank I am sending to a duplicator to make just like the original No. 3 wood. It will look pretty cool when I am done with it, I think. A stock configuration No. 3 200th year rifle with birdseye quilted maple. It will make for an interesting project, and like I said, the rifle is a shooter.

Maple.jpg
 

David Bradshaw

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933
Joe.... sounds like you've isolated the problem at a missing spring. I was going to add that----trying to remember the action----a loose fill between falling black and receiver might prevent full engagement of the extractor.

The Number 3 in .45-70 is a fast little carbine with beaucoup punch. Factory 400 JSP @ 1300 fps will do for anything in the deer family. The Number 3 is basically the No. 1 with non-locking lever (perfectly good) and a simple 1873-style stock, which makes it kick harder.

I loaded my Number 3's with stouter ammunition, then decided I like venison too well to hunt them with lighter bullets going faster. Should you make a custom stock, allow for a Pachmayr Decelerator or Kick-Eez pad.
David Bradshaw
 

gatling

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Well, it wasn't the ejector spring. Replaced it and I still have the same problem. Examining this thing closely, it looks like the falling black actually cams the ejector into position, and it's just not driving over and in far enough. I guess I'll contact Ruger and see if they are willing to fix it.

On that note, does anybody have a recommendation for a top notch Ruger gunsmith who is used to working on No. 3s/No. 1s?

Thanks.
 

David Bradshaw

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Sep 11, 2012
Messages
933
Don't know if you're in the middle New Hampshire neighborhood, but Ben "the Bear Man" Kilham in Lyme knows the No. 1/No. 3 falling block action. I suspected a possible loose breechbolt, which actually cams into battery. And Kilham may be tired up with bears.

As it may be a parts fit, I'd call Ruger service first.
David Bradshaw
 
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