WARD
Single-Sixer
Would a SBH hammer be a simple swap out on the New Model Flat Top 44 specials?
Thanks
Ward
Thanks
Ward
NMFT 44 SP HAMMER SWAP
- Thread starter WARD
- Start date
BlackEagle
Blackhawk
Finding a SBH hammer is not simple. But I think the swap should be straightforward. I have heard that there can be a small issue with the top step of the hammer face because of a thicker transfer bar?! I don't know if this is a real problem or not. Someone else can verify this.
All three I did just dropped in. No filing, just buff and polish.
Get one complete. (with plunger) I also use a new pivot pin.
Call the nice lady at Ruger and see what they have. I got on a list and then after about six mo. called back and she said they did have some in stock but they won't last the day. I got two of them. Place a WTB here and keep calling Ruger.
Good luck. Eric
Get one complete. (with plunger) I also use a new pivot pin.
Call the nice lady at Ruger and see what they have. I got on a list and then after about six mo. called back and she said they did have some in stock but they won't last the day. I got two of them. Place a WTB here and keep calling Ruger.
Good luck. Eric
I had one of SBH hammers complete with plunger on backorder at Brownells and it arrived today. Maybe that means that they have a few in stock??? I notice that the main upright portion of the hammer is thicker from front to back on the SBH over the NMFT. Maybe tonight I can find a few minutes and see if it will fit reasonable easily.
Ward
Ward
BlackEagle
Blackhawk
I wasn't so lucky. I got mine about a week ago after waiting 3 months. It installed into my 6 1/2" Blackhawk with no problem. However, there is very little if any over-travel. I hope it does not turn out to be a problem.
I installed the hammer without modifcation last night. It looks and feels great like I had hoped but... When you drop the hammer it rests on the transfer bar preventing it from dropping and the firing pin is held forward.
I seem to remember some earlier thread where this malady was discussed. Don't you need to file the second notch in the top of the hammer a little deeper so the transfer bar will drop after firing?
Can anyone offer advice?
Ward
I seem to remember some earlier thread where this malady was discussed. Don't you need to file the second notch in the top of the hammer a little deeper so the transfer bar will drop after firing?
Can anyone offer advice?
Ward
tek4260
Buckeye
Yes you must file the second step "deeper". The transfer bar on the newer mid-frames is thicker than the standard tranfer bar. Eyeball the amount the top of the hammer is away from the frame when the transfer bar is pinched, then take a sharpie and mark the sides of the second step close to this amount and file that off. If you spend some time with masking tape and file gently, it can be filed while it is still in the revolver. Just take care to keep it flat so you don't add stress to the transfer bar when you fire it. I had to do this on a few of mine to relieve transfer bar pinch. I installed lighter trigger return springs and the pinch would keep the trigger from resetting.
flatgate
Hawkeye
Relieving the "pinch" will also add to the life of the transfer bar.
It's a "de rigueur" procedure, in my humble opinion. ALL my New Models get thusly modified.
flatgate
It's a "de rigueur" procedure, in my humble opinion. ALL my New Models get thusly modified.
flatgate
BlackEagle
Blackhawk
flatgate":9w8lz1dw said:
I think I remember you also mentioning somewhere that you also modify (lengthen?) the pawl to prevent the turnline. Is there a thread somewhere that details that procedure. I think I would like to give it a try.
Thanks,
Justice
flatgate
Hawkeye
I "borrowed" this image off of one of the Firearms Forums over a decade ago.....
I make 'em a wee bit longer then "fit them" which usually requires some shortening of the cylinder latch's "leg". The goal is to get the latch to stay "open" until the cylinder rotation brings the bolt cut "leed" into position to take the contact of the dropping latch and the cylinder remains unblemished. One must also learn to not close the loading gate unless the cylinder is oriented properly.
I do NOT recommend modification of your lockwork.
flatgate
I make 'em a wee bit longer then "fit them" which usually requires some shortening of the cylinder latch's "leg". The goal is to get the latch to stay "open" until the cylinder rotation brings the bolt cut "leed" into position to take the contact of the dropping latch and the cylinder remains unblemished. One must also learn to not close the loading gate unless the cylinder is oriented properly.
I do NOT recommend modification of your lockwork.
flatgate
BlackEagle
Blackhawk
Great! So it is the cylinder latch, not the pawl. And this won't affect the timing of the cylinder, pawl, etc., right!? Has the one in the picture been fitted? It looks to me, from eyeballing it that I need to add about a sixteenth of an inch or so to the end of the leg, then fit it. It seems pretty simple. This latch is never really under much stress so it doesn't need to be hardened, right?! Why is the leg pointed? And if it is this simple why aren't they all like this to start with? Or why isn't someone selling a slightly oversized aftermarket replacement? Am I missing something?
Edit: After doing a bit more digging, I'm thinking this and the other (IOWEGANS hammer plunger) modification are a bit more fine tuning than is realistic for factory "mass production" quantities. Right?! And it seems to me neither modification is really that difficult for someone with some good sense and a good deal of time to shape and trial fit the pieces until they work just right. But it is not a job for a novice or someone who is not very familiar with the purpose and operation of Ruger single action lockwork components. I don't have my Kuhnhausen book with me right now, but I don't remember seeing these modifications in it.
Edit: After doing a bit more digging, I'm thinking this and the other (IOWEGANS hammer plunger) modification are a bit more fine tuning than is realistic for factory "mass production" quantities. Right?! And it seems to me neither modification is really that difficult for someone with some good sense and a good deal of time to shape and trial fit the pieces until they work just right. But it is not a job for a novice or someone who is not very familiar with the purpose and operation of Ruger single action lockwork components. I don't have my Kuhnhausen book with me right now, but I don't remember seeing these modifications in it.
