Can a NM single-action be converted to an OM? You're probably wondering why do this, just buy an OM. The reason I'm asking is that if it can be done, then it can be done to my BFR as it's about the same as a Ruger NM. Even some parts are interchangeable. All my single-action Rugers are OM and it sure would simplify things for my slow brain to have all actions behave the same.
NM converted to OM
- Thread starter wavehopr
- Start date
tek4260
Buckeye
Well, you can remove the transfer bar and weld up the second step of the hammer and file it flat. Or you possibly could file the top step away, if the hammer would rotate that far forward without some kind of binding. Of course you won't have a half cock and the cylinder will rotate when the gate opens unlike the OM. Plus, you will have to hold the hammer back slightly to load since the firing pin will be extended. In other words, it would become a PITA pretty much all around.
targetshootr
Single-Sixer
Powers half cock hammer and trigger may do what you want if they fit.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
Interesting question and it's been asked before by someone who wanted a stainless old model. Anything can be done; it just becomes a question of how much would someone pay to have what they want or how skillful they are.
I went thru the mental exercise when it was first asked. Here it is step by step:
Yes, if you want a pure 3 screw gun it's not that hard and it can be done to a NM Ruger.
Gut all internal parts from a NM Stainless gun and put them away. Very helpful to have a disassembled old model for reference and measurements.
1. The trigger screw hole does not align with the 3 screw. Weld up the trigger screw hole or otherwise plug it with two pieces of the original, peened tightly in place and polished over flat (the hardest part of the entire conversion).
2. Drill and thread new trigger screw hole and cyl bolt screw hole in the old model locations and obtain the screws.
3. Counter bore and thread hammer pin hole and obtain screw.
4. Obtain OM hammer with cylinder hand (pawl) and polish all the blue off of hammer.
5. Make a trigger spring adapter for use with the NM grip frame or easier to replace grip frame with Ruger Old Army SS grip frame, trigger and trigger return spring. This will give you a wide grooved trigger like a SBH.
6. Obtain an old model cylinder stop bolt and return spring.
7. Drill small hole inside frame to capture end of the above return spring.
8. Drill and tap hole in bottom of frame for old model style loading gate spring, plunger and lock screw and install them after slight fitting of NM loading gate shaft.
9. You can leave the SS cyl pin with the plunger in the end or replace with old style blue one polished bright.
All needed parts readily available.
I suspect however, you'll opt for Tek4260's much easier solution. Won't look like a Ruger but function the same as an old model with the addition of the Power Custom hammer. I've done exactly that with a New Vaquero and it works very well.
I went thru the mental exercise when it was first asked. Here it is step by step:
Yes, if you want a pure 3 screw gun it's not that hard and it can be done to a NM Ruger.
Gut all internal parts from a NM Stainless gun and put them away. Very helpful to have a disassembled old model for reference and measurements.
1. The trigger screw hole does not align with the 3 screw. Weld up the trigger screw hole or otherwise plug it with two pieces of the original, peened tightly in place and polished over flat (the hardest part of the entire conversion).
2. Drill and thread new trigger screw hole and cyl bolt screw hole in the old model locations and obtain the screws.
3. Counter bore and thread hammer pin hole and obtain screw.
4. Obtain OM hammer with cylinder hand (pawl) and polish all the blue off of hammer.
5. Make a trigger spring adapter for use with the NM grip frame or easier to replace grip frame with Ruger Old Army SS grip frame, trigger and trigger return spring. This will give you a wide grooved trigger like a SBH.
6. Obtain an old model cylinder stop bolt and return spring.
7. Drill small hole inside frame to capture end of the above return spring.
8. Drill and tap hole in bottom of frame for old model style loading gate spring, plunger and lock screw and install them after slight fitting of NM loading gate shaft.
9. You can leave the SS cyl pin with the plunger in the end or replace with old style blue one polished bright.
All needed parts readily available.
I suspect however, you'll opt for Tek4260's much easier solution. Won't look like a Ruger but function the same as an old model with the addition of the Power Custom hammer. I've done exactly that with a New Vaquero and it works very well.
flatgate
Hawkeye
I've done HOMEBOY conversions to several of my New Models. My technique is slightly different from what's posted above.
I weld the hammer and cut in a half cock notch. I slim down the trigger's sear (on the opposite side of the actual sear) so it'll fit in the half cock notch. One MUST "time" the location of the notch so the hammer is back far enough to have opened the cylinder latch. I also weld up the "leg" on the cylinder latch to prolong the latch's timing to the point that the latch does NOT drop onto the cylinder until the cylinder's lock slot "chamfer or leede" is in position. Of course one must tune the trigger so there's minimal creep.
I also disengage the loading gate from the lockwork so opening the gate DOES NOT free up the cylinder. Reducing the trigger's "creep" can produce misfires unless a long or modified transfer bar is installed. (Believe it or not, I always maintain the transfer bar when modifying the NM Lockwork.
)
The usual detailing of all "friction surfaces" is included in the procedure.
Why go through all the effort? 'cause I can.
flatgate
I weld the hammer and cut in a half cock notch. I slim down the trigger's sear (on the opposite side of the actual sear) so it'll fit in the half cock notch. One MUST "time" the location of the notch so the hammer is back far enough to have opened the cylinder latch. I also weld up the "leg" on the cylinder latch to prolong the latch's timing to the point that the latch does NOT drop onto the cylinder until the cylinder's lock slot "chamfer or leede" is in position. Of course one must tune the trigger so there's minimal creep.
I also disengage the loading gate from the lockwork so opening the gate DOES NOT free up the cylinder. Reducing the trigger's "creep" can produce misfires unless a long or modified transfer bar is installed. (Believe it or not, I always maintain the transfer bar when modifying the NM Lockwork.
)The usual detailing of all "friction surfaces" is included in the procedure.
Why go through all the effort? 'cause I can.
flatgate
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CraigC
Hawkeye
Not that difficult or expensive. Jim Stroh offers this modification for New Model Rugers for $212. He welds up and reworks the original parts. Though bear in mind he does not remove the transfer bar. He 'may' also do it on BFR's, you would have to ask.
http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/revolver/halfcock.htm
http://www.alphaprecisioninc.com/revolver/halfcock.htm
Axehandle
Buckeye
I traded for a NM some years back that included documentation showing it had been to Stroh for his conversion. The seller liked this conversion and had removed it to put in another NM. I did not realize that Stroh modified the original parts. I installed a Ron Power kit to return it to, what I thought was, Stroh's modified state. To make a short story even shorter... The parts set dropped in and the little beast now clicks, clacks, and clocks like an OM...
I just got a return email from Power Custom, "As far as we know they do not fit in them but, we do not have one of those guns to check it out with. If you order one and it does not fit I will refund 100% of the purchase price. Thanks, Randall Power www.powercustom.com"
Axehandle
Buckeye
Just digested the actual question here... The BFR comes with a free spin pawl so other than the added noise there may be reason to question the benefit. That said just pull the parts from your BFR and a NM and compare them.. If they are the same I'd think the RP parts would work..
Take note that there is a little variation from NM to NM Ruger. Means the RP parts don't drop in every NM. I own two that did and one that didn't.
Take note that there is a little variation from NM to NM Ruger. Means the RP parts don't drop in every NM. I own two that did and one that didn't.
Axehandle
Buckeye
Don't know what I have been thinking... You need to take your question to Lee Martin. He knows Rugers and BFRs. He is a member here. You can also find him on the Single Actions Forum at: http://www.singleactions.com
Hondo44
Hawkeye
I would imagine Jim Stroh could work his magic on a BFR as well as a Ruger.
EDK
Single-Sixer
The gentleman who runs outlaw grips does a conversion like what you are discussing. He has a very thorough description of his process on his web site. He makes some interesting looking grips also.
I've had excellent work from Jim Stroh (ALPHA PRECISION) for over 20 years. He will be doing multiple guns for me sometime soon...he has a six month waiting list, so I'm hoping to get the call to ship after the first of the year. I can not say enough good things about him as a person or the quality of his work.
I've had excellent work from Jim Stroh (ALPHA PRECISION) for over 20 years. He will be doing multiple guns for me sometime soon...he has a six month waiting list, so I'm hoping to get the call to ship after the first of the year. I can not say enough good things about him as a person or the quality of his work.
