New Single 10 issues - help please

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WARD

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 28, 2008
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146
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MINNIESODA
I recently bought a new Single 10 stainless and took it to the range last Friday. First two cylinders full went just fine as I corrected the sight settings. On the next loading the cylinder was becoming very sticky and did not want to turn easily. I closed the loading gate and found everything to be frozen up - I could not cock the hammer nor turn the cylinder! This was with the loading gate closed or open! The lock would drop when the gate was opened but it made no difference.

I removed the cylinder from the gun and unloaded it - everything moved freely with the cylinder out of the gun (hammer and trigger.) I took it back to the club house and sprayed some WD-40 (cause that's what was there) into the pawl slot. Put the cylinder back in, everything worked and I shot two more cylinders full and then it froze up again.

I took it home and disassembled it and looked for burrs or such, added some grease here and there and went to the range again Sunday - the same thing happened again.

Two different types of ammo are involved - Federal and Win Power Points - same with either. The gun was brand new - has around 60 rounds thru it total.

What the heck is binding??

ward
 

WIL TERRY

Buckeye
Joined
Jun 8, 2003
Messages
1,973
Location
Single Chute, SD USA
IF the cylinder pin moves forward an RCH and does not activate the transfer bar [ at the back ], you CANNOT cock the gun as the transfer bar will catch on the bottom of the firing pin.
 

WARD

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
146
Location
MINNIESODA
It is not the transfer bar - I understand it's working.

When it is the transfer bar, you can still feel a slight amount of movement - this one freezes up solid - no movement at all.
 

Chuck 100 yd

Hunter
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3,251
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Ridgefield WA
What WIL TERRY is saying is a very possible cause. The base pin must be fully seated and the base pin latch in place to hold it there or the transfer bar will catch on the firing pin and lock it up. Since you can open the loading gate and the latch drops, I don`t think anything is going on there.
How about the fired cases,do they extract easily? Just a thought.... Could the case heads be binding against the recoil shield???
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
8,061
Location
People's Republik of California
When you disassembled the gun did you find any evidence on the front face of the cylinder that it was rubbing on the barrel throat?

I suspect the barrel/cyl gap is too tight; very common and about the only thing that can cause the problem since you say you know it's not the cyl pin. Once the gun gets hot from shooting and parts expand, the cyl will hang up on the end of the barrel and there's not enough leverage to turn it by pulling on the hammer, especially with a little fowling present. Check the gap with gun cold by holding it up to light or the sky. You should see an even space between barrel and cyl. Do the same check after firing to see if the light space has diminished or partially disappeared. Also see if you can rotate the cyl by turning with your fingers with the gate open.

If the light space partially disappears, that's where you need to file the end of the barrel a tad because it is not square. Marks on the face of the cyl will also indicate which part of the barrel is rubbing, and that's where you file. If the entire light space disappears when parts are hot from shooting, file the entire rear surface of the barrel evenly. This is not rocket science so don't worry. Just file a little off evenly, shoot another two cylinders full and see if it's fixed. If not file a little more, etc.

If not comfortable doing that, call Ruger, and wait for it to come back.
 

WARD

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
146
Location
MINNIESODA
I have been coming to the conclusion that the cylinder length may be the problem. Expanding a bit when heated by firing. The cylinder is an extremely tight fit in getting it into or out of the gun. I am comparing this fit to any of the other dozen or so Ruger SA's I own and shoot. What if I stoned .003 by measure, off the front hub on the cylinder and give that a try at the range.

No, there are no scratches on the fired case heads. I did my best to look for burrs anywhere I could think of.
 

Chuck 100 yd

Hunter
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3,251
Location
Ridgefield WA
Friend, By "hub" do you mean the piece in the center of the cylinder with the hole that the base pin goes through? Don`t shorten that area. it will make the problem worse by allowing the cylinder to be pushed forward by the expanded cases and further shorten the cylinder end gap. The barrel shank that protrudes through the frame just in front of the cylinder is the part that needs to be shortened to increase barrel cylinder gap and prevent drag.
 

smith1961

Blackhawk
Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
602
Location
Massachusetts
WARD said:
I have been coming to the conclusion that the cylinder length may be the problem. Expanding a bit when heated by firing. The cylinder is an extremely tight fit in getting it into or out of the gun. I am comparing this fit to any of the other dozen or so Ruger SA's I own and shoot. I stoned .003 by measure, off the front hub on the cylinder and will give that a try at the range.

No, there are no scratches on the fired case heads. I did my best to look for burrs anywhere I could think of.

Arrrggg! ET Phone Ruger! :shock:
 

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