New GP100 Issue

jedagi

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 22, 2011
Messages
11
City & State/Province
N. E. Texas
I just got my new gp100 in 327 fed yesterday. Me being a perfectionist when it comes to any machined product. Besides the lack of deburring and the tool marks, the pistol has an issue. While cocking the pistol in single action, working your way around the seven chambers. You come to one that has a bit of drag at the end of the hammer cocking. Then the next one is down right hard at the last 1/8 " of cocking. I put a small dot on cylinder with a marker and this happens in the same place. It can also be felt in double action. I have an idea what's going on
but I don't want to " lead the jury ". If anyone has any ideas on what's up and how to fix it. It would be much appreciated. I really don't want to send it back or take it to a gunsmith. Besause of additional cost and wait time.
 
Probably a burr or a ruff lug/lugs on the ejector , look at suspected lugs under magnification & compare em to "smoother" 1 then make em look like the smooth 1s.

I use a jewelers file wrapped with fine emery to smooth things up , & the old sayin goes clean & try often !!!

I also remove the hammerstrut asm & hammer so I have a better "feel" of just the trigger rolling the cyl.
 
I know what an ejector is but exactly what part is the lug. The tip of the points are the gear like teeth around the center shaft?
 
Yep, probably a bad angle or cut on the cylinder ratchet. Check by looking from the side at the pawl as it pushes up on the ratchet to turn the cylinder. After pulling the trigger all the way back hold the trigger back and wiggle the cylinder back and forth to check the play. The play should be the same for all the teeth. Mark which ratchet tooth is bad if any and then study it with the cylinder open. I had to take a file to one tooth on my SP-101. :shock:

...Jimbo
 
I had this problem with a GP only it was on 2 chambers in a .357.

I sent it to Ruger and they fixed it saying that the hammer needed to be replaced.
 
Thanks for the info. When you pay over half a grand for something you should not have to work on it.
 
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5of7 said:
I had this problem with a GP only it was on 2 chambers in a .357.

I sent it to Ruger and they fixed it saying that the hammer needed to be replaced.
How would a bad hammer cause binding on only two chambers?
Inquiring minds. :? :?

...Jimbo
 
How would a bad hammer cause binding on only two chambers?
Inquiring minds.



I was wondering the same thing and thought it was just me being uninformed. It was reassuring to read that someone with a high level of revolver knowledge (Jimbo357mag) was wondering the same thing.

Jim
 
A process of elimination and some common sense would tell me that if the problem presents itself only on one are two chambers . That the parts of the gun associated with only those chambers. Would be the culprit. So, as for what I can see. The only things that do that is the locating slots in the cylinder and the gear type part that the pawl engages to rotate the cylinder. Me being an ex machinist and knowing the process of machining. The locating notches in the cylinder would be hard to misslocate.short of the part being loose in the fixture are a tool loose. The gear type part that the pawl engages to rotate the cylinder is cast. And poorly cast at that. It looks like the tips are filed. I am going to guess its the later. Ill have to do some measuring to pinpoint the problem.
 
Suggestion: Lubricate gun with BreakFree CLP, and shoot at least two hundred rds half DA half SA.
Then dry-fire at least five thousand times, half DA half SA.
Clean and lubricate.

Smoother?
 
WESHOOT2 said:
Suggestion: Lubricate gun with BreakFree CLP, and shoot at least two hundred rds half DA half SA.
Then dry-fire at least five thousand times, half DA half SA.
Clean and lubricate.

Smoother?

Ammo is a little tricky to find. I wish I had 200 rounds. I have yet to fire this pistol. It is brand spanking new. I plan on shooting it some today. I plan on putting a spring kit in it. In double action, it would be hard work to shoot 100 round.It almost takes 2 hands to pull the trigger. :lol:
 
No, take the plastic ring out. It'll actually push the firing pin back against the transfer bar and potentially cause it to break.

Do some dry firing as mentioned and see if it improves. Worst case scenario Ruger will fix it for free, and if you ask they will most likely pay the freight on it.
 
Oddly, after tens of thousands of DA rds through my GPs, neither shows bolt notch damage.
Oddly, after thousands of DA rds through my Redhawks, neither shows bolt notch damage.

Kinda the only way I shoot them, DA I mean, because: They are DA revolvers; I use them for USPSA competition (too).
 
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