MK III target

[flaflash]

Just got one--really nice
I stumbled across this without thinking I wanted it but now I'm hooked
What is the "must do" aftermarket add on I should consider--the trigger pull is just over 3lbs so I'm not really unhappy with that
I'm leaning toward a crimson trace grip and getting the barrel threaded

 

[contender]

Kudos on a nice gun. I'd shoot it for a while to see how it does,,, and then consider options.

 

[blume357]

I've had one for years and the only two modifications I've made are fiber optic sights and a target grip... at least on mine I would never mess with the trigger it is too good as is.... Some folks criticizes the 'lawyer' items like the lock and mag disconnect, here's my answer... I've never used the lock... key is still in the box the gun came in... there is no way you are going to shoot this gun with out a magazine inserted.... try loading one round in the chamber by hand and you'll see what I mean. Oh and as for magazines... here's one other add on I made... I bought 8 more magazines for a total of 10... this is probably the first thing I would suggest you invest in... more magazines.

 

[Mobuck]

So, what are the expectations for the pistol and how will a laser grip and threaded muzzle help reach those goals?
I'm not saying those modifications aren't good, just trying to get an idea of what you want to accomplish.
I think I now have a total of 4 of the III series pistols but mine are all 22/45's. Each has a slightly different purpose and configuration.

 

[Pat-inCO]

I think contender makes a very good point. Put a few thousand rounds
down range before you go the modifications route. Once it settles in, you
may find it doesn't need anything. If you . . do . . decide to make changes
you know what you really want, and why.

 

[flaflash]

Great tips from all you guys
I've read that the loaded indicator is something to get rid of
The threading is because my 10-22 is threaded for my 22 suppressor
The gun came with 9 mags
I just haven't been to the woods yet to shoot it

 

[Mobuck]

"I've read that the loaded indicator is something to get rid of"
I don't see this as something that's a big deal either way. All my pistols' LCI are still intact and I'm not wasting $$ to make them go away. I do recommend the Volquartsen accurizing kit or at the very least the TK hammer bushing which makes dis-assembly and magazine changes easier.

 

[blume357]

Some folks just want to 'make trouble' where there really is none... I've never had a problem with mine and the loaded mag indicator does not cause a problem and so I've never even considered removing it....
Contender is right... put a thousand rounds through it and then consider changes.... as for lasers.... I've never seen the need to put something on a gun that requires a battery to operate... I have done it but usually for get to turn the thing off ..... then again, I always like to be able to fall back on good old iron sights.

 

[Mobuck]

At the distances where shooting the Ruger pistol is really fun, the laser isn't effective anyway. I have a laser on my "possum pistol" which is mostly used in full dark conditions at 10-30 feet--works fine for that purpose.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Just got one--really nice
I stumbled across this without thinking I wanted it but now I'm hooked
What is the "must do" aftermarket add on I should consider--the trigger pull is just over 3lbs so I'm not really unhappy with that
I'm leaning toward a crimson trace grip and getting the barrel threaded

Well, you asked a very viable question, and it doesn't read that you got very many answers. There are a few features that "some folks" abhor, right from the get go. The main issue many of my customers saw no need for right away, is the magazine disconnect. Those parts prevent the magazine from clicking up into place positively, and more often then not, cause the magazines to hang up and not eject completely. A simple replacement part is available.

Don't be duped into buying just any replacement hammer bushing to shed those magazine disconnect parts, and consider this. A hammer bushing used to replace the magazine disconnect parts is not a "one size fits all" proposition. Hammer bushing bores are allowed a manufacturing tolerance for the diameter size. To be most effective, the replacement bushing needs to be a snug, or slight press-fit. When done right, the bushing should not wobble or drift right to left, which condition will create an inconsistent trigger pull weight.

Also, consider a replacement extractor. The factory extractor is a stamped part with burrs on the bottom of the extractor caused by the stamping die smearing metal downward causing the burr. Those burrs will collect gunk and hinder the arc swing outward that the extractor needs to have. Also, the front, working hook, on the factory extractor does not provide a very positive purchase on the cartridge case "rim", and quite often will let go of some case rims, at extraction, causing stove pipes of the spent case.

Now, some will say that the factory extractor is quite adequate. Ask them, "Then why are there at least SIX aftermarket manufacturers of extractors for the Ruger Mark pistols and the Ruger 10/22 rifles?" Both guns use the same extractor.

Another thing. It's not trying to create "TROUBLE" when someone answers your question, stating that some folks had lots of trouble with the "loaded chamber indicator". That's a true statement, and I've seen it myself many times. That "indicator" has been proven to cause "stove-pipes" with spent cases, so that is indeed something to consider. And please keep in mind................an owner with only ONE Ruger Mark III does not a "benchmark" make.

 

[Fox Mike]

As was said; run a few thousand rounds through it first THEN figure what you feel needs 'fixing'. I removed the LCI simply because I didn't care for its looks. The biggest improvement I made was installing a Volksquarten adjustable trigger.

 

[blume357]

As noted, I'm a "one pistol owner with no bench mark experience".... but I'll say it again.... at least with my Mark III I've never had a problem with any of the internals (other than it being a pure pain in the butt to take down and clean)... trigger feels pretty darn near perfect to me.... and I'm pretty sure any problems with ejecting has more to do with the brand of 22lr than the gun.... then again... I'ver probably only put 4 or 5 thousand rounds through mine.

 

[TomV]

Also, to make reassembly of the mainspring into the pistol easy and correct every time, try this:
HammerStrutSupport.com
A lot of people have and like it quite a bit.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

As noted, I'm a "one pistol owner with no bench mark experience".... but I'll say it again.... at least with my Mark III I've never had a problem with any of the internals (other than it being a pure pain in the butt to take down and clean)... trigger feels pretty darn near perfect to me.... and I'm pretty sure any problems with ejecting has more to do with the brand of 22lr than the gun.... then again... I'ver probably only put 4 or 5 thousand rounds through mine.

Well, that's a debatable statement! One pistol doesn't offer much as a "standard" example. There is a very GOOD reason why there are 6 aftermarket producers of better extractors for all the Ruger Mark pistols than the one provided from the factory. The factory extractor is a stamping and will often be found with burrs on the bottom of the extractor that were smeared downward from the stamping die. Those burrs will often hinder complete movement of the extractor in its working arc. Also, those burrs are a great collection place for gunk and other crud which can be blamed on the ammunition but, the failure of most factory extractors lies with the part being rough.

Stove-pipe issues have been known to go away after the LCI has been removed, and/or replaced with a solid filler. There's proof positive of that. If anyone doesn't have the issues just mentioned, consider yourself lucky and an owner of a Ruger Mark pistol that "Ol Bill himself would've been proud to own.

There is indeed a learning curve involved with getting the hammer strut aligned with the mainspring housing, spring plunger, upon reassembly and when installing the mainspring housing assembly into the grip frame, but it's really not an insurmountable task, once learned. With a little practice, "even a caveman can do it".

 

[AzShooter1]

I shoot my Mark IIIs a lot and always like to use CCI Mini Mags to break them in. After that I test ammo for accuracy and functioning and have settled on the Mini Mags, Federal AutoMatch and Blazer 22s. I avoid hollow points. These are the same brands Ruger uses when testing a gun sent in for repair so I feel confident in them.

I also replace the bushing. I hate having to put a magazine in to clean the gun or to have to have one in at the end of a stage to show that the gun is empty.

My triggers are all set at around 2 - 2.5 lbs. I shoot competition and the stock triggers just don't hack it. But a new shooter will probably never be able to tell the difference.