Generaly speaking....yes.
The cam cut in the op rod.
The top of the hammer where the bolt rides upon cocking.
the locking lug recesses.
The groove in the reciever where the op rod tab rides.
On top of the forearm liner where the op rod rides.
The round bolt-lifting thingy on the side of the bolt's right locking lug.
It don't take much.....and don't even think about lubing the gas piston.
Be carefull that none gets into the barrel or chamber.
As for the bolt lugs and that cam cut....after your rifle is reassembled, work the slide a couple of times and wipe off whatever excess squishes out. Otherwise, it could end up in your face upon firing.
During hot weather, I use the same USGI grease that was supplied for the Garand. During cold weather, I use Lubriplate Engine Assembly Lube. Been doing it that way for years......but....Also be aware that under some field conditions grease is not desirable, and that in some weather conditions, it's best to run the rifle dern-near dry.
The Ruger manual won't help, but additional info (with drawings) can be found on page 21 of US Army Field Manual FM 23-5 .
Hope this has been of use.
DGW
