Lube ?????

[bigbill]

Oil is for the bores to prevent rust, it does nothing to prevent wear. If your seeing any wear at all your present lube isn't working. I have nothing to do with the sales nor production of moly. My fight is against seeing wear when it can be prevented. I can't see replacing any wornout gun over and over because of the wear. Why replace it when a $30 can of lube will change your guns life and wallet at the sametime.

Back in 1976 when i purchased my very first brand new ruger police servive six in 357mag w 2 3/4" barrel in stainless we tested the trigger and it was a solid 4lbs. We took it apart and lubed the sear with moly. The trigger pull was a tad over 2lbs right away. It was even less as it works into the pores of the metal on the sear. I also lubed the trigger pin, the lever that turns the cylinder and the cylinder stud too. Since 1976 this revolver has been awesome with this lube. I did my redhawks up with moly too. None of them show any kind of wear yet to this day. I have no clue how long they will last but the'll outlast my lifetime and my sons lifetime for sure.

On the semi auto pistols like the 1911's and others i put moly on the slides/frame rails, the recoil spring and guide if it has one, on the hammer face/disconnector and on the barrel/barrel bushing. Then i assemble it and wipe off the excess and run it by hand till it free's up. It will feel tight at first but once the moly works into the pores of the metal it will free up. If it doesn't free up and remains tight you have too much moly in it. Lubing the gun with moly you will notice it will speed up the cycle timing too. The pistol will operate smoother and faster.
I have also noticed this on the semi auto rifles too. I also use moly on my bolt action rifles too on the sear and bolt lugs. Remember just a little moly will do too.

Moly;
Eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Stays wet and were you put it even during longterm storage your gun is ready to rock n roll at anytime.
Moly does not attract dirt
Moly is an extreme pressure lube so it can handle anything.

Cleaning;
I just disassemble the gun and wipe it clean, then i wash only the bore and reapply the moly again. You will notice that the gun will clean much easier too. You could wash it too but them you need to go thru the first time applying moly proceedure again if its that dirty. Certain brands of ammo can be really dirty too. But it will clean much easier with moly in it.

I have used moly since 1970 and tested it in every metal to metal application and its never failed me yet. Once its in the small pores of the metal there is no longer a metal to metal contact its moly against moly thus no wear its eliminated. I have seen the bluing on the frame rails that hasn't worn off yet when its lubed with moly. I had a poster complain about seeing wear on his op rod, i'm guessing it was a garand. He said the bluing was completely gone. I told him he is using the wrong lube(oil). I sent him a sample of moly and he reblued his op rod, lubed it with moly and test fired it. When he got home the bluing was still there like he never shot it. He was very surprised at what a lube can do. Need i say more? Don't let your guns wearout before there time. Moly my guns never leave home without it. Bill

www.tsmoly.com I use either the moly anti-seeze/moly paste TS-70 moly. The anti-seeze or paste has a higher % of moly in it there both the samey,same.

Assemble the gun with moly and work it in by cycling it by hand till it free's up. Just a little moly will do. Remember to put moly on the recoil springs/spring guides too. I see so many used guns with worn recoil springs. You will see the difference in the sear right away.

My plan is to hand my guns down to my family members and then to the future family members so they can enjoy the seed that i planted. I'm sure my great,great grandkids will enjoy them too as i have.

 

[WESHOOT2]

I use BreakFree CLP, and Tetragun grease in specific locations.

Brownells offer Action Magic II, which is a proven fighter of both wear and gas-cutting.

These products have proven their effectiveness over time.

 

[pisgah]

>Oil is for the bores to prevent rust, it does nothing to prevent wear.

No wonder automobile engines are completely shot after 10 miles!

 

[JWhitmore44]

Using Molly isn't a bad idea, I use it for different applications on motorcycles. Never thought about using it on the wear points of my guns. May have to give it a try. In motorcycle applications it gets used where there is high pressure and the possibility of the grease to be "thrown". A shaft drive bike's bevel gear is an example.

One thing to keep in mind is a little goes a long way. Loctite makes a good molly grease http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-SEPTLS44251048-Moly-Paste/dp/B001HWBSJW or stop by your local Honda motorcycle shop and pick up a tube of Honda Molly 60.

 

[contender]

Interesting.

 

[J Miller]

Boy if that wasn't a commercial interruption of my forum visit I don't know what it was.


.........now back to your regular programing.

Joe

 

[bigbill]

>Oil is for the bores to prevent rust, it does nothing to prevent wear.

No wonder automobile engines are completely shot after 10 miles!

Come on now the engines are pressure fed and our guns aren't there two totally different applications but i do add moly to my engines, transmissions were applical and my differentials too were applical. We need to becareful of things that rely on friction drives like stuff that has clutch plates too. The moly is so slick it will loose the friction drives on the posi's with clutch plates. Bill

 

[bigbill]

Using Molly isn't a bad idea, I use it for different applications on motorcycles. Never thought about using it on the wear points of my guns. May have to give it a try. In motorcycle applications it gets used where there is high pressure and the possibility of the grease to be "thrown". A shaft drive bike's bevel gear is an example.

One thing to keep in mind is a little goes a long way. Loctite makes a good molly grease http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-SEPTLS44251048-Moly-Paste/dp/B001HWBSJW or stop by your local Honda motorcycle shop and pick up a tube of Honda Molly 60.

I build my sons dirtbike engines for racing in NETRA. I lube the cylinder/piston with moly on each assembly at the beginning of each racing season. If it needs it. At the end of the season we check it and the piston and the bore still look like new. We rering it just because its apart anyway but were sure its good to go. The moly is saving us $$ now for sure. He's racing a KDX 220 we built and actually hanging with 250's in the tight woods doing hare scrambles. In some spots the 220 is faster and in some spots the 250 is faster so its a trade off and up to the rider to make up time thru the faster spots.
Bill

 

[bigbill]

Boy if that wasn't a commercial interruption of my forum visit I don't know what it was.


.........now back to your regular programing.

Joe

Joe/guys;

If there is a better lube out there don't you want to know about it? My fight is against seeing any wear on the used guns i look at at my local gun shop. When it can be prevented with just using the right lube. If you want to shoot the snots out of your gun and have no wear this lube is for you. If you like seeing wear then stay with oil or your present lube that probably isn't working as good as the moly would. :lol:

Sorry if I offended anyone with all my talk about using this awesome lube. :roll:
Bill

I have nothing to do with the sales or manufacture of moly nor any companies who make/process it. I'm retired and enjoy guns. We shoot about 500rds of every caliber when the 3 or 4 of us go shooting. So they could wearout or show wear very quickly if were not using the right lube.

One of my chinese norinco sks's is one of the very first importation of them. I lubed it with moly and you can't tell how much its been shot because the bluing is still on the receiver rails(no wear). On my Russian Izhmash Saiga AK/AKM in 308 the new gun is very rough when we run the slide and the trigger is horrible at first. After lubing it with moly it feels like a more expensive gun. The bolt carrier and trigger are much smoother plus it cycles faster too. You won't believe the difference. :wink:

 

[bigbill]

Using Molly isn't a bad idea, I use it for different applications on motorcycles. Never thought about using it on the wear points of my guns. May have to give it a try. In motorcycle applications it gets used where there is high pressure and the possibility of the grease to be "thrown". A shaft drive bike's bevel gear is an example.

One thing to keep in mind is a little goes a long way. Loctite makes a good molly grease http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-SEPTLS44251048-Moly-Paste/dp/B001HWBSJW or stop by your local Honda motorcycle shop and pick up a tube of Honda Molly 60.

JW; Try it in your guns and give us a report on it. Bill

 

[pisgah]

>Come on now the engines are pressure fed and our guns aren't there two totally different applications

My post was intended as a tongue-in-cheek response to a remark that was completely over-the-top and fallacious -- namely, that oil does nothing to prevent wear.

Clearly, it does; and equally clearly, it is not ideal for that purpose in all circumstances. In limited circumstances, grease may well be superior to oil on guns; but, it can also be detrimental to a gun's functioning (if over-applied, for instance), and even end up causing more wear -- grease can and will hold fine grit, creating an abrasive paste that can do more damage than even a completely dry surface which will at least allow grit to move and perhaps migrate out of the way. And in extremely cold environments, even oil is sometimes too much, thickening to the point that a firing pin may not fall, or an action will fail to cycle. Grease or oil, one of the main causes of firearms malfunction in extreme condition is, and always has been, over-lubrication. I would be far more concerned over that than over any excessive wear caused by sparse lubrication.

Nothing is a miracle cure-all when it comes to lube, and oil is at least just as often the answer as grease.

 

[BRL]

>Oil is for the bores to prevent rust, it does nothing to prevent wear.

No wonder automobile engines are completely shot after 10 miles!

I got a laugh out of it.
I use a tiny dab of moly grease on my sear surfaces.
My trigger pull tells me it likes it.

 

[Rclark]

Nothing is a miracle cure-all

Other than keeping your revolver 'clean' and oiled/lubed . That is the 'cure-all'. As with the car analogy, you don't keep the oil in it until it gets 'gritty' and tar like!

 

[bigbill]

Moly is a natural mineral and its not man made. You have to try it to see how great it works. It doesn't attract dirt. You can burnish it into the pores of the metal and thats were it stays. If you wipe it clean after burnishing it in its still there in the pores of the metal protecting your gun against wear. The bottomline is you have to try it to see its worth. Its the only lube i have found that can do it all. I had a buddy who worked for dow corning when they first developed it and he said i had to try this stuff. He tested it in there lab. They took a new jeep ran a high content of moly in the engine and removed the oil pan. They ran one lap around a race track withy no oil, no oil pan, no oil pressure. They then reinstalled the oil pan/oil and ran it around the track again. The engine sounded fine with no knocks/sounds. Like i been saying this moly is awesome and proven in the test labs were its unmatched in performance. A tube of moly also comes with the camshaft and engine rebuilding kits too. We prelube the engine with moly at the assembly too. You can say or assume what you want but if you search for "moly" there's lots of info on it on the net. I lube everything with moly and forget about. Bill

 

[resident]

.... I had a buddy who worked for dow corning when they first developed it and he said i had to try this stuff. He tested it in there lab. They took a new jeep ran a high content of moly in the engine and removed the oil pan. They ran one lap around a race track withy no oil, no oil pan, no oil pressure. They then reinstalled the oil pan/oil and ran it around the track again. The engine sounded fine with no knocks/sounds. ...

First of all...Dow WAS NOT the first developer of molybdenum.... it was recorded well before 1754 when it's use was DOCUMENTED in "Elements of the arts of assaying metals" by John Cramer. He referred to its use for over 150 years PRIOR to his book.

Secondly...running engines without oil pans or lubricants is one of the oldest tricks-of-the-trade of lubricant-merchants. If an engine is first lubricated, then lightly loaded and run with an open crankcase....there is little strain or heat to cause injury. Engines have been known to run unloaded like that for days on end if they had already been run with PLAIN MINERAL OIL!

Doh.

 

[pisgah]

>I lube everything with moly and forget about.

Glad you're not maintaining any of my stuff. :lol: :wink:

 

[JWhitmore44]

I'm not sure molly is quite the wonder grease bigbill thinks it is, but he does have some good points.

BMW motorcycles use a dry clutch. The clutch splines in the clutch hub run on the transmission output shaft. The only thing BMW recommends is at least 60% molly grease. Anything less will not stay in place. Any other grease just gets flung off. If you don't use 60% molly you will wear out the input shaft splines in very little time. It is also recommended to use it on the rear wheel drive splines. The grease helps "cushion" the spins and prevents wear on the drive splines.

Honda also recommends at least 60% molly on the drive splines of their Goldwing motorcycles.

So I can see a very light coating of molly on anything where metal is sliding on metal could be very helpful. I'm not sure how much molly would attracted dirt as it doesn't seem to cause issues with brake dust on the clutch splines. It gets dirty, but doesn't cause any more wear. Like I said before, use very little, as in apply with a tooth pick

 

[bigbill]

>I lube everything with moly and forget about.

Glad you're not maintaining any of my stuff. :lol: :wink:

My guns don't show any wear at all. Bill :roll:

 

[bigbill]

.... I had a buddy who worked for dow corning when they first developed it and he said i had to try this stuff. He tested it in there lab. They took a new jeep ran a high content of moly in the engine and removed the oil pan. They ran one lap around a race track withy no oil, no oil pan, no oil pressure. They then reinstalled the oil pan/oil and ran it around the track again. The engine sounded fine with no knocks/sounds. ...

First of all...Dow WAS NOT the first developer of molybdenum.... it was recorded well before 1754 when it's use was DOCUMENTED in "Elements of the arts of assaying metals" by John Cramer. He referred to its use for over 150 years PRIOR to his book.

Secondly...running engines without oil pans or lubricants is one of the oldest tricks-of-the-trade of lubricant-merchants. If an engine is first lubricated, then lightly loaded and run with an open crankcase....there is little strain or heat to cause injury. Engines have been known to run unloaded like that for days on end if they had already been run with PLAIN MINERAL OIL!

Doh.

Doh; One of my experiences with moly is with a gravely tractor, the big walkbehinds. I rebuilt the blown engine not knowing the rod bearing was spun. A quick look showed the oil hole lined up in the crank rod bushing. So i put the new top end on after boring it with new rings and a piston. Using the gravely rotary plow and tilling. By my third garden the engine sputtered. I had oil pressure and it ran great but it began to sputter. When i got home it got even worse so i removed the head to see what happened. When i removed the cylinder i found the rings were slightly burn't, the piston was ok and the bore was still good. The oil hole in the rod was now closed up. I found out from the dealer that the machine must have been outside in the cold and it got no oil to the crank fast enough. If these are left outside in the cold weather we need a bypass oil line from the oil pump to the crank. Well i honed it lightly and checked the valves. I mic'd the piston and its a tad smaller than the bore now so i replaced the piston and rings. I did change out the rod/bearing too. I used the piston in another rebuild and it just needed new rings. Moly saved me lots of $$ that day. It was just my dumb luck that the oil hole was lined up when i checked it. Since the rod bearing was tight with no play i let it go figuring it was ok. These rods are captured by the crank when its pressed together so it doesn't unbolt to be inspected. Withiout the moly in the bore i would of needed a new cylinder too. So by this happening the guys running the jeep with no oil pan is no trick i proved that. he gravely tilled 3 large gardens with no oil going to the piston and rings that day it ran on moly lubing it. Bill

BTW; It takes 11 to 12 hrs of running wide open with no oil in the pan to freeze up an engine. On an egine with high mileage. My trade school teacher would do this on the company cars when they had the 50k warrenty many years ago to get a new engine.

I really don't care what lube you use its up to you.

 

[resident]

...The only thing BMW recommends is at least 60% molly grease. ...Honda also recommends at least 60% molly on the drive splines ...

The key thing to remember is...those mfr's specify the product in those special areas. (clutch splines have centrifugal force contantly-applied which is self-cleaning.) They don't recommend it in other places where other lubes are better.
I use the specified lubes recommended by my gun mfr's. I don't use pig-poop or anything else. (Although I note that some gun greases contain molybdenum or it's cousin, graphite.)

 

[JWhitmore44]

...The only thing BMW recommends is at least 60% molly grease. ...Honda also recommends at least 60% molly on the drive splines ...

The key thing to remember is...those mfr's specify the product in those special areas. (clutch splines have centrifugal force contantly-applied which is self-cleaning.) They don't recommend it in other places where other lubes are better.
I use the specified lubes recommended by my gun mfr's. I don't use pig-poop or anything else. (Although I note that some gun greases contain molybdenum or it's cousin, graphite.)

Well I'm sure we could argue about what those other lubes are for and why they are used in those other places. But it gets to be like an oil/tire/caliber/wood or rubber grips thread Everyone will have their own opinions on what is best.

I think the most I ever read from the gun manufactures is to use a "gun oil". Anybody could bottle any oil and call it "gun oil". There are a lot of different "gun oils" too, which do you choose? I have to admit, I've never seen a manual that said to use a "gun grease" but there are gun greases available.

Who knows, some one might try it like. Might find out it's good stuff. or maybe even that it's just snake oil.

 

[bigbill]

You can trust me in this one, just try it once and you will see. Bill

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I'm going to get the spray can and put it on everything. Might be a little messy but I figure nothing will ever wear-out. Got Gloves ?? 8) 8)

...jimbo

 

[M'BOGO]

I remember a column by a known gunsmith in the last several years, where he detailed what he uses to lube what. If I recall, he sparingly used a liquid moly in action friction points.

 

[pisgah]

>My guns don't show any wear at all

Neither do mine, and therein lies the point. Proper lubing is what is important, not what you lube with.