I could use some help!

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Joined
Jan 5, 2024
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I inherited my father's Ruger 10/22. He bought it in the 60's and what I have discovered is that I don't think he ever cleaned it aside from running patches down the barrel. ( I remember seeing him do this as a kid. )

In any case, I tried to take it apart and I am unable to remove the bolt cycle handle. Part 15 in the Ruger documentation. Got the bolt out and in a few times. A tiny bit tricky until you know how to do it, but the bolt handle, rod and spring cannot be removed. It is as though the rod is slightly too long.

Here are photos of both ends of the rod/spring/handle assembly.

If I had to guess, i would say some debris ( at least 50 years old ) was wedged between the bullet shaped end of the spring and the recess that it lives in. I soaked it in cleaner, used a brush and compressed air, but no dice.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Instruction videos show the damn thing nearly falling out the ejection port. What a tease.
 

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contender

Ruger Guru
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Welcome to the Forum!

As noted,, a good overnight soaking can loosen a lot of crud. But not mentioned is the attempt to compress the spring a bit to allow it to snap back a bit & maybe loosen things a little. Do that after a good soaking. A dental pick type of tool can get ahold of the spring & be used to pull it back.

Good luck!
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2024
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I wonder if it is possible that a very early model of this rifle could be designed so that in order to get the rod/sporing/handle assembly that you must remove the barrel?? If I remove the barrel, I could properly access the stock end of the spring to clean it, then see if it reassembles with the barrel in place. If so, it was ancient crud preventing the removal. If not, then the early versions needed barrel removal to remove the rod.

Is there any significant risk/downside to removing the barrel? I want to get this apart, but don't want to screw up the gun. The barrel removal sounds simple having never done it... I know about centering the ejector in the groove in the back of the barrel. Other than that, is it a mistake to remove the barrel?
 
Joined
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I brought a 10-22 last summer made in 1966, it had never been taken apart. It came apart like all other 10-22s I have owned or worked on. No need to remove the barrel. Follow directions in manual and what has been said on here.
 

Old and grumpy

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Johnnu2

Hunter
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Just an FYI... I'm quite capable of taking apart and reassembling (read: not a gunsmith) my rifles and handguns. That being said, I can tell you that removing that 10/22 bolt assembly and (worse) replacing it in the gun is ALWAYS a PIA to me. Keep at it, be patient and, in the final analysis, if you can't get it...... just forget it and shoot the gun forever.

IMHO,
J.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
California
Thanks all for your advice. I used Clensoil Field and Range numerous times wiggling the rod, using a brush, wiping with a rag and blowing compressed air and still could not get it to budge. I did, however, get a ton of crap out of the receiver. I will break it down and put more on it and stash it away to soak for a few hours and see if it makes a difference. I have seen some videos on Youtube that indicate that barrel removal is not always so easy. Given the approximate 60 year age of the gun, I don't think mine is likely to go easy. ( particularly given I can't remove the damn spring... ) Funny someone mentioned using dental tools... I happen to be a dentist and will bring a selection home next time I am in the office.
 

MHtractorguy

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Apr 9, 2023
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Just an observation. If that rod and spring are stuck, the barrel might be even more of a challenge.
I use Kroil because it works.
 

Old and grumpy

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Just leave the spring in. Blast around and under it then lube. A new one is only $10 if you mess it up taking it out. Try to move it with a flat head screwdriver. After this long the spring may be week and the shaft rough. I would be tempted to replace all springs. I did several things to the one I rebuilt. I added a bolt lock back and release https://www.midwayusa.com/product/928688102?pid=688102 and a better mag release. Also the recoil buffer. Things to look for-- The tiny springs under the extractor get gummed up after so long. It's not hard to pull them and clean them and the pocket they live in. Even if they are still good you may want to replace them and get a new sharp extractor. Pull and clean the firing pin and slot. I also put on a muzzle break because it looks cool. --- Trigger spring kit https://www.mcarbo.com/ruger-10/22-accessories.aspx They have how to videos on there page.
 

Old and grumpy

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If I remember right the rod and spring swing out at the rear? Not the barrel? You may be pushing at the wrong end. When you are done she will be good for another 50 years.--- Just looked at the parts pics at Midway. Swing from the rear.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 5, 2024
Messages
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California
I just looked up the serial number on the Ruger w3ebsite. The rifle was manufactured in approx. 1966. It has been soaking for a while now and I am concluding that the earliest guns were possibly made with slightly longer guide rod. The rod is now loose enough to slide slightly back and forth, the cup end is no longer stuck in crud. There is no way that it could slide back far enough to clear the circular part of the barrel. I also saw a reference to this part where a poster was asking if the replacement piece was like his, and about a 1/16 of an inch longer than the replacement.

So, I am thinking I will just leave the part alone for now until I order a replacement, then if I am ambitious, I will remove the never removed barrel and swap it out for a shorter one, or (just slightly grind the old one) so it is easily removed.

Seeing the vids of people having their bold handle fly out with the bolt, or easily slide out through the ejection port makes me certain that this is the issue.
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2024
Messages
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Location
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I brought a 10-22 last summer made in 1966, it had never been taken apart. It came apart like all other 10-22s I have owned or worked on. No need to remove the barrel. Follow directions in manual and what has been said on here.
The receiver is actually very clean now. The rod can move forward and back slightly and I no longer think it is crud in the cup that holds the stock-end of the rod. This gun has been in the family since new. I wonder if someone that had your gun replaced the part with a new one.

I found this review for a 10/22 charging handle. It had this picture


I don;t know if I can link to a an offsite photo. If not, here is the product page. Look at the reviews and sort for reviews that have a picture.

 
Joined
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Messages
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Just to put some closure on this thread. Given how old and long it had been since it was cleaned, I was worried I would have a problem removing the barrel. ( I saw two you tube vids that showed hammering on one and using a heat gun on the second. ) That gave me a reason to check out a local gunsmith. He removed the two threaded bolts and the damn barrel just about fell out of the receiver. I suddenly felt like a giant fluffy kittens for not even trying... In any case, the barrel was preventing the rod from coming out. Now I am not afraid to remove the barrel and at some point, I may just shorten the rod so it fits my 1960's gun just like the more recent ones and can be removed easily.

Thanks to all for giving me suggestions. Nice group of people here.

Paul
 
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