Here is the pest
- Thread starter crow#2
- Start date
AFAIK carbide dies are only made for non-bottleneck cartridges. You'll need case lube.
Either die set will be fine.
Either die set will be fine.
Last edited:
contender
Ruger Guru
As noted,, 30-30 dies won't be carbide,, and will need lubing.
Aqualung
Blackhawk
I have the red Lee set and they work well enough for me. It comes with the Lee Factory Crimp Die that I like for putting a good, firm crimp on the round since they're for my tube-fed Marlin 336.
Edited to add:
I don't think you'll need the 4-die set, as the 4th die is for if you want to only neck-size your brass after you've fired it in your rifle. Not suggested if you're loading for multiple rifles.
Aqualung
Edited to add:
I don't think you'll need the 4-die set, as the 4th die is for if you want to only neck-size your brass after you've fired it in your rifle. Not suggested if you're loading for multiple rifles.
Aqualung
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2004
- Messages
- 3,931
- City & State/Province
- Alabama, in the bend of the Tennessee River
I highly recommend Imperial wax for lubing chores. Best thing I've found in nearly 50 years of reloading, and one little tin will last near forever.
NikA
Hunter
I use a lube pad (basically an oversized ink stamp pad with no ink) and roll 5-8 cases across it at a time.
I've used a variety of non-reloading lubes including mink oil, ATF, and light grease for lubricating pistol slide rails. Never saw the need to purchase a lube specific to case sizing.
I've used a variety of non-reloading lubes including mink oil, ATF, and light grease for lubricating pistol slide rails. Never saw the need to purchase a lube specific to case sizing.
For the 30-30---I, too, use Imperial wax and apply lightly by fingers with very little on the case neck and none on the shoulder. Overdo it and you will dimply the shoulders.
I don't recommend roll crimping. It's very easy to crush the shoulder even if all brass is trimmed to the correct length. Use a taper/factory die for crimping.
Reloading the 30-30 is far from the easiest rifle cartridge to load. If you don't do things to a T you will soon learn.
I don't recommend roll crimping. It's very easy to crush the shoulder even if all brass is trimmed to the correct length. Use a taper/factory die for crimping.
Reloading the 30-30 is far from the easiest rifle cartridge to load. If you don't do things to a T you will soon learn.
+1 I've used it for a very long time.
Dillon case lube.
Put some brass in a small ziplock bag.
Give it a squirt or two of lube.
Shake, shake shake to distribute.
Wait a couple of minutes to dry.
Easy peasy.
Put some brass in a small ziplock bag.
Give it a squirt or two of lube.
Shake, shake shake to distribute.
Wait a couple of minutes to dry.
Easy peasy.
Any type of lube will work for 30/30 just don't over apply as too much lube will cause shoulder dents especially in the thin 30/30 cases.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2004
- Messages
- 3,931
- City & State/Province
- Alabama, in the bend of the Tennessee River
Imperial wax is applied with fingers. Only takes a little, and I typically only need to apply lube to about every 3rd or 4th case. Also Imperial wax won't create case neck dents (unless you just got crazy with it). You can put a little on a Q-tip and lube an inside neck every 5 or 10 cases.
john guedry
Single-Sixer
I use Imperial Wax for all my bottleneck cases. However the only time I have ever stuck a case was using Imperial, old age and stupidity will "get you every time". I'm NOT switching lube.
This is a good choice as is the Imperial.Hornady Unique, a little dab will do ya
anachronism
Single-Sixer
If you get any on the shoulder you can simply wipe it off. The shoulder dents are caused by trapped air bubbles.
I've been using Hornady Unique with very good results. I had been wearing latex gloves and had problems holding onto the cases. Lately, my hands are so dry I decided to dispense with the gloves and don't drop as many cases. Can't say it helps my hands but don't have to bend over as much.
Similar threads
